You could see it coming the entire straightaway before. Lots of grey area on these things, but I think Malcolm lost his cool when Anderson passed him.
In the 450 main, I hear Dungey's takedown of James was even worse, but not covered by FS1.
Check to make sure the power valve (aka the variable exhaust port) is opening properly. Not sure about the 125, but the CR250 has an inspection plug that you remove. You rev the bike in neutral and can verify that the power valve is opening.
The power valve staying closed will make the...
Sounds like a really nice bike and certainly worth a premium over the typical $1500 - $2000 bikes you are seeing on Craigslist.
Have not been in the market for a bike lately, but that does seem like too much for a 2005 YZ250, even low hours and with all the costly goodies on it.
That would be an '82 YZ100J.
The link I posted earlier shows the '81 would not begin 5X3 and the '83 would have a higher VIN, like 5X306xxx.
I hope you are able to find the parts you need - I bet the '83 will be almost identicial to your '82 and share just about everything.
Sorry, don't know about parts sharing.
The YZ100 was supposed to be a very fun bike to ride, but I remember them being somewhat smaller than the YZ125. I think production was always a lot less than the YZ80 and the YZ125.
FWIW, the VIN on the '81 YZ100 begins with 3R2 like the '80...
The VIN is the 9 digit number stamped on the steering head. The first 3 digits will help you identify the model.
This site is helpful for old Yamahas http://www.merrittmotorcyclesalvage.com/yamahaidentification.htm
It looks like the first 3 digits on a 1980 YZ100 are 3R2.
For a 1980...
Yeah, been a long time since I've looked at Race Tech fork spring recommendations, but I remember them being at least 3 or 4 steps too stiff for anything but pro level Supercross, lol.
Also been a long time since I've had a KDX, but IMO a 0.42kg/mm spring rate is probably in the ball park...
If it's hard to pull, it's usually because the cable is bad,or someone routed the cable incorrectly.
I would replace the cable first. If the old cable is frayed on the inside, lubing it will not help much.
According to the parts diagrams at www.buykawasaki.com the stock main is a 190, the pilot is a 30 and the needle is an O-6. Needle jet is a 5I14.
Never had a KDX80, but all 3 of the bigger KDX's I've owned were jetted way too rich by Kawasaki.
Did come across some sort of gathering of folks in the middle of nowhere. This was between Middle Creek and Stonyford, Northern Cal. Quite remote, only a few trails and dirt roads in the area and a long long way from any pavement.
Out of the 100 or so people there, maybe ten were skinny...
Man, that is a tough one.
Basically the rotor has fused to the end of the crank over the decades. IMO, your best bet is the puller and tightening it a lot more than you should have to, and more than you think it can take. Hopefully it will pop off just before the puller's threads strip...
If I recall correctly, a shorter silencer will move the power toward low rpm, and a longer silencer will move the power toward high rpm.
Diameter/total volume of the silencer and the length of the connector between the expansion chamber and the silencer may also have an effect.
The spark arrestor inside is not model specific. As long as it's forestry approved, it would be legal.
Silencer length can influence the usable rpm range, but maybe you will like it better.
The biggest challenge will be mounting points and making sure the silencer does not interfere...
Have you checked the valve clearances?
If the valves are set too tight, the valve's won't close all the way, and the bike will be hard to start and it will run poorly. If you do get it started, the clearances will get even tighter with heat, making it impossible to re-start.
My guess fwiw is that the dark grey oil coating on the piston and cylinder is a mix of powder material sloughed from your piston and unburned premix.
Probably as compression was being lost due to irregular heating / lube failure, your son was holding the throttle open to try to keep the bike...
I agree on insufficient lube and not enough warm up.
FWIW, I've heard that when a cold motor seizes due to insufficient warm up, there is often evidence of damage on the on the intake side.
A contributing factor could also be engine braking while riding on the road, without pulling the...
If the shifter is properly attached to the shift shaft and it is still not shifting, I had a similar problem once, but this was on an old KDX. The shift shaft return spring had popped out of place. On my old bike, the return spring was on the right hand side. I had to pop the cover off the...