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Thread: replacing crank seals rm 250!
04-01-2009, 02:42 PM #1
replacing crank seals rm 250!
Hey guys I rebuilt my top end, and after putting it togather it just rev's like crazy and is sucking oil from the trans. My question is when the cases are split, are these all the seals I need?
I'm looking at this kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUK...4506.m20.l1116
Is there a seal between the cases I need to get as well, or does that seal kit cover everything I need? Thanks for the help!
04-01-2009, 04:51 PM #2
Why are you splitting the cases? Last thread you made was asking us why your bike is reving like crazy, did you ever find out why exactly, did you try all the methods we told you to use to find an air leak or anything?
If you are splitting the cases just to do the seals, you don't need to, you can get to them by taking off the flywheel and pulling apart the clutch side, it sits behind the one gear.
Just curious cause it seems like you are doing everything but actually tracking down the original problem you were having. And sure, they look like the seals you would need
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When you see me riding with my eyes closed, its because I have lost control of my bike and I'm about to crash.
04-01-2009, 05:55 PM #3
They look like the complete seal kit, but, its from K&S Technologies, Inc. Not Suzuki? Some of these off brands are out of china, not for sure about this company. At which point, they are not worth the 4 dollars for shipping. http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-mot...w-1998/o/m6601, part number 14&15. If the main crank bearings, or crank is bad, it will not last long.
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04-01-2009, 06:22 PM #4
yeah i replaced the head gasket and reed gasket with no success, its sucking oil from the tranny which tells me it's a crank seal at the least right?
04-01-2009, 06:29 PM #5
Yep. Check the rod ends for up and down play, bad main bearings, check the big end bearing visually and with a feeler gauge, the thrust washer clearance. And there should be no up and down play in the rod. If it all checks out, try putting screws into the seal and yank them out, no case splitting needed.
04-01-2009, 06:59 PM #6
Yeah the rod bearing has no up and down play at all thankgod, well at least I don't have to split the case thankgod!
04-01-2009, 08:11 PM #7
did you ever take the carb boot off and inspect for cracks? This also may be stupid but what do you have your floats set at? I thought my buddy threw a rh crank seal because it was spitting oil out everywhere and it ended up being the float height was way off, once adjusted it basically stopped smoking up the place. If it was fine before you did the rebuild I don't see why the seals would be shot now. Are you positive gear oil is your culprit?
04-03-2009, 08:08 PM #8
Yeah i took the boot off, and no sign of any cracks. I'm not sure about the float height, but it was fine before the top end blew. When the piston shattered off a few pieces I put some mineral spirits in the crank for a couple minutes then turned the bike upside down and hosed out the inside of the crankcase and tons of wd40 to get the water out then two stroke lube. I was thinking maybe i damaged the seals or something doing that! I talked to suzuki service dept and they said the cases need to be split to replace the seals properly, i wish i knew someone i could pay to help me out.
04-04-2009, 12:56 PM #9
I know the waterpump seal is really bad by the complete milk after running a minute, but that wouldn't cause any air to leak right?
For the hell of it, i changed the fluid to atf with this seal saver additive and tried to start it... The bike doesn't want to start and just backfires, man what kind of mess am I getting myself in!
04-04-2009, 09:39 PM #10
Check the cylinder for being flooded. If you had the stator plate off, check that it is fully seated properly and on the mark. If you had the rotor off, check that the key did not shear.