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  1. #11
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    Quick question, how tight should the 4 bolts be that hold the spring plate in place? Should I be able to compress the plate or are they supposed to be snugged down all the way?



    m y   s i g n a t u r e:


    1995 KDX 200
    FMF Gnarly Woods and Core 2 silencer, Bark Busters, Wiseco Piston, Skid Plate, Race Tech Fork Springs, FRP Chain Guide, Race Tech Rear Shock, FRP Handlebar Clamp, Answer Alumilite Handlebars, Spyder Grips, Uni, Fork Guards, Number Plate, Frame Guards,

  2. #12
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    I havn't stripped this but I've had a look at the fiche. The plate appears to have 5 bolts for a start, and normally bolts for the springs have shoulders on them so they only tighten so much, then the spring does the rest...


    https://www.kawasakiepc.com/SSIConve...14545_1062.png




  3. #13
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    This is the fiche i found for my model. Looks like the guy i bought my bike from replaced the 4 spring bolts with ones that are threaded all the way through.
    No wonder I couldn't figure why my clutch wouldn't work if i torqued them to spec, the springs would have no where to go.

    95 Clutch Diagram




  4. #14
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    Sounds like you have found your problem.



    m y   s i g n a t u r e:


    Member of an angry mob, TAXPAYERS!
    2B Judged by 12, NOT carried by 6!
    05 YZ 250T, 05 Midnight Roadie, 05 Scorpa SY250, FB:BSwift

  5. #15
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    After reading about that lovely mistake, I wonder what else he touched on your bike ?




  6. #16
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    Hopefully not much. He gave me a bunch of paperwork when I bought it with all the work orders for the suspension and top end. Looks like he sent most of it out to get done.
    I got my clutch working. I was missing the washer which sits between the basket and the clutch hub, got one from the kawi dealer and everything is a okay.
    Thanks for all the help guys.




  7. #17
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    Thats an easy thing to get wrong. Lots of fussy bits that make little sense when putting that clutch back in...







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