02' CR 250 New Look & Advice

[IndyMX]

Spend 30 bucks or so on the a tool to split the cases, and learn.

It's really not that hard.

If you have a manual, and you do have one right? Just follow the instructions in it, and you'll see in no time that there's really no need to pay someone to split cases.

 

[1998RM250]

I don't have a Clymer's manual yet, I've only done top ends and never needed one for that. Does motion pro make a tool to split the cases? Wish I had some first hand knowledgable help here in FL!

 

[IndyMX]

To be honest, I bought a steering wheel puller at Autozone for 12 bucks and a few different lengths of metric bolts at Lowes. It's not perfect, but it gets the job done.

Plus you'll need a flywheel puller, fortunately the one you can get from motion pro or rockymountainatv or pit posse will fit almost all metric two stroke engines, so it's a good investment.

The only real "difficult" part about splitting cases, in my opinion is the transmisison. And that's only a problem if you are sloppy and don't take your time. If you're careful, take pictures as you progress and have a nice clean straight work area, it's really not too big of a deal.

 

[1998RM250]

Thanks for the advice, I seen a few case splitting tools online for $30 I might order. So far I have purchased a Wiseco complete bottom end kit, moose racing high compression head gaskets, new piston rings, fmf exhaust spring/seal kit, and a new 130/80/19 Kenda rear tire. It was listed as a "southwick" but is actually the 778 enduro version that is dot approved for street, hopefully it hooks decent in the sugar sand. I called the local Honda dealer and was quoted $185 if I remove the motor, head, flywheel, clutch, etc for them to split the case and replace all parts & seals I provided. I feel this is pretty fair, how about you guys?

*Edit*
So far I have removed the pipe, rc valve assembly, carb, flywheel, stator, and cracked loose all the bolts on the motor mounts and swingarm in no time. The bottom two 14mm nut's broke free, but are very hard to turn and I dont want to snap them, I am letting everything absorb the wd-40 overnight. Also when I remove the swingarm does the bolt just come out and I can remove the motor, or do I need to remove the linkage etc? Can't want to get this thing rebuilt! :cool:

 

[_JOE_]

The 14mm nuts are probably locink nuts. If you go back forward (tighter) when it gets difficult to turn it may help. And the motor should come out without removing the swingarm completely.

185 is a bit more than it would cost around here. Usually a couple hours labor @ about 50-70 an hour here.

 

[1998RM250]

Thanks, I got the motor removed a few busted knuckles later!
Pulled the top to findout it's a ProX piston, but the cyl dome has a bunch of marks in it. Can I sand these out lightly? Also the Cylinder near a port has a lil chip of plating missing, but it is on the inside and you can't feel it in the cylinder.

 

[IndyMX]

I wouldn't worry much about the head. But I'd definitely have that cylinder fixed..

 

[1998RM250]

Does the whole thing need to be replated? I'm guessing eventually it will crack off and a ring will snag. Speaking or rings, I can't find any Pro X replacement rings anywhere. Since it's a cast piston can I just use the stock oem rings? Thanks and happy Thanksgivings Day!

 

[arnego2]

You could, I had some points where I dremeled some of those parts away. With care and no so far no problems. Touch wood :)

 

[1998RM250]

Well the wiseco crank kit arrived today, everything seems quality except the crank itself seems to have some tiny surface rust, barely. almost looks like it would rub off with some steel wool, but I don't think it is an issue. From my research the OEM rings should work on the cast pro x piston, can't wait to get this thing running. Did you mean by using a dremel on the port to smooth out the surface?

 

[arnego2]

Yeap that is what I do when small bubbles become feelable by a nail. You can take off small bits in plating specially when they are on the edge of a port where I found most problematic areas.

 

[1998RM250]

Hey guys I realize the twin spar aluminum frame on my 02' is hollow, the newer models are filled with foam... Is there any way I can spay in some of the foam insulation from the drain hole on the inside of the frame to help with the resonance?

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Good luck filling the ENTIRE frame, its been tried before, and any is better than none, Bob

 

[Matt90GT]

Ok the head, easily fixed using this:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-Scotch...-Grinding-Sanding-Finishing-System-2/17128873

just use the green scotchbrite pad there.

But be careful how much you take off. the squishband is very important and is way off on the late model CRs. I would suggest to get the squishband redone. I had RB do mine on my 125 and it runs 10x better with just that mod:

http://www.rb-designs.com/


now there is 2 ways to rebuild a motor. The right way and the wrong way. Obviously if you skimp, cut corners, etc you will be doing the work again shortly. So might as well spend a little more time and coin now to get it done correctly.

For the frame, the first GEN frames 97-99 the factory and pilot teams use to drill 1-2" holes on the inside of the spars and fill them with expandable foam so get the frames to flex. you would not want the frame to be solid, to much weight there! I would leave the frame as is stock. If you want to improve the handling, swap to a 05-08 front fork (and will need the brake caliper bracket) to move the axle back 2mm. Also the piston and internals will be larger for improve performance. Alternatively get a set of offset triple clamps.