Hey everyone. I am wondering what everyone puts in their crank case. I hear gear oil, motor oil, and automatic trans fluid. I know all are fine but most racers tell me the trans fluid makes the clutches last longer which makes sense and you get a better feel from the clutch with no lunging when put in gear which also makes sense. What do you think?
2 stroke oil
- Thread starter weav6385
- Start date
I always ran that pro honda hp trans oil in any bike I had,(in a tall red bottle) and also run it in my trans on my trx 450r. I have never had any problems with it. I always believed that honda makes a tranny fluid for that side for a reason, I could be wrong hats just my opinion..The only thing I wonder with me is that I just bought a 99 rm250 and they were running amsoil synthetic motor/tranny oil in it and I dont know if I have to stick with synthetic now or if I can go with the hp too.I hope someone on here knows something about it
You can switch oils no problem. I personally use ATF type F but I have used the honda HP oil and I like it as well. As you note, many people use many different oils and you'll get plenty of opinions. As long as you're not using motor oil with friction modifiers (energy conserving) you should be fine.
I would let the fuel lubricate the crankcase, if you dump motor oil in there you'll foul plugs.
The transmission won't be really picky about oils. Do what feels right to you. Many have great success with high end oils like Amsoil. There's also lots of people running ATF-F and motor oil with good results. Honda HP tranny oil is a sure bet. Where most go wrong is leaving it in too long. Just because you paid 8 bucks a quart for that oil doesn't mean it'll last forever....
The transmission won't be really picky about oils. Do what feels right to you. Many have great success with high end oils like Amsoil. There's also lots of people running ATF-F and motor oil with good results. Honda HP tranny oil is a sure bet. Where most go wrong is leaving it in too long. Just because you paid 8 bucks a quart for that oil doesn't mean it'll last forever....
Crankcase Oil for 2 strokes
I've always used BelRay 85W (heavier for more trans protection) in all my 2 strokes. ATF would probably work, but might not have the protection for the gears that BelRay does. Been using it since 1984 and have 4 bikes and 2 quads that use it, all of them 2 strokes and have never has any gear or clutch issues.
I've always used BelRay 85W (heavier for more trans protection) in all my 2 strokes. ATF would probably work, but might not have the protection for the gears that BelRay does. Been using it since 1984 and have 4 bikes and 2 quads that use it, all of them 2 strokes and have never has any gear or clutch issues.
AmsOil Synthetic
I was an AmsOil Dealer for years, and what I've done in the past is put a magnetic drain plug in the trans and run it for a few rides. Pull the plug out, drain the oil, and take a photo of the metal adhering to the magnet against a white background, such as a piece of notebook paper.
Do another test with some other oil, BelRay 85W for instance, and check the plug (and take another photo) to see the difference.
Go with the one that shows less wear (less metal on the magnet).
In my 500 horspower V-8 Vega engine, I compared Valvoline 40W Racing Oil with 10W-40 AmsOil (suggested 25,000 mile change interval) at 3,000 miles each. The Valvoline came out with no metal on the magnet. The AmsOil came out with LOTS of metal on the magnet. So much that it scared me. I thought that something had gone terribly wrong with my engine, so I put the Valvoline in again and ran it another 3,000 miles. It was spotless. Guess which oil I'm running in my V-8 Vega?
AmsOil is GREAT for some things (2 stroke oil, injectable grease, rear end gear lube), and not so good for others. Ask me and I'll tell you the truth. By the way, some of their products have had formula changes (cheaper base stock) because they wanted the products to be made less expensively. In my opinion, some of these products have suffered quailty because of the bottom line.
barry425 at y/a/h/o/o/d/o/t/c/o/m/
**********************tpro450r said:
I was an AmsOil Dealer for years, and what I've done in the past is put a magnetic drain plug in the trans and run it for a few rides. Pull the plug out, drain the oil, and take a photo of the metal adhering to the magnet against a white background, such as a piece of notebook paper.
Do another test with some other oil, BelRay 85W for instance, and check the plug (and take another photo) to see the difference.
Go with the one that shows less wear (less metal on the magnet).
In my 500 horspower V-8 Vega engine, I compared Valvoline 40W Racing Oil with 10W-40 AmsOil (suggested 25,000 mile change interval) at 3,000 miles each. The Valvoline came out with no metal on the magnet. The AmsOil came out with LOTS of metal on the magnet. So much that it scared me. I thought that something had gone terribly wrong with my engine, so I put the Valvoline in again and ran it another 3,000 miles. It was spotless. Guess which oil I'm running in my V-8 Vega?
AmsOil is GREAT for some things (2 stroke oil, injectable grease, rear end gear lube), and not so good for others. Ask me and I'll tell you the truth. By the way, some of their products have had formula changes (cheaper base stock) because they wanted the products to be made less expensively. In my opinion, some of these products have suffered quailty because of the bottom line.
barry425 at y/a/h/o/o/d/o/t/c/o/m/
- Nov 25, 1999
- 7,926
- 43
Clean oil is the key. If you want to pay more for oil it's up to you. I've been using the cheapest ATF type F I can find, change it every other ride. Quieter and smooth shifts. No problems with any of my two stroke clutches, period.
2-Strokes 4-ever
~SPONSOR~
+1... especially if you're on a Suzuki. Zukes have clutch-drag issues and a thinner oil like ATF improves things a bunch.BSWIFT said:
Bel Ray Gear Saver or (in a pinch) Castrol R4 because it works so well in my 450. Since I have to change the oil at 2.5 hour intervals, I will not be taking chances on products that aren't engineered specifically for the job in hopes of saving a few pennies.
