2001 KDX 200.......input please

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#1
Hey folks, after 15 years away from dirt bike riding and getting rid of my street bike I have just purchased a new KDX 200. Love the bike and having a great time with it. After reading alot of this forum I can see that I am going to have to invest in a pipe, jetting, and maybe an airbox for starters. My question is this. I am 6 ft tall and 220 lbs. I haven't really found anything here on this forum on how the big guys set up their supensions. Not that I have any complaints about the way it is now but if it can be better let me know. Any input regarding this would be appreciated. I am also considering changing the back sprocket to have 2 additional teeth. I might do a little MX riding and I hear this helps getting out of the turns with a little kick.

Thanks!
 
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#2
The only reason I can answer this question, is due to the amount of research I have done, while looking for a KDX for my son. Go to www.justkdx.dirtrider.net and check out the Fredette Racing Products section. He has some recommendations on spring rates and clicker settings.

vetwfo'er

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99 WR400f, White Bros E-Series silencer and tapered head pipe. YZ seat and tank. Thumper rad guards, works frame guards, scots steering damper. Soon to be MX-Tech suspension. SETRA, AMA, Happy Ramblers MC.

Courage is not the absense of fear. It is the judgement that something is more important, than fear.
 
- a d v e r t i s e m e n t -

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#3
Thanks! Went to Fredette's web site and lot's of info there for sure. I even found some items he has that I felt I must have. Went with the MX rear fender, FMF Rev pipe and silencer. Looking forward to getting these items installed and trying them out. As far as the suspension, I am going to work with what I have a little more before making any major changes.
 
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#4
If you're 'thinking' about adding a couple of teeth on the rear..think about trying the ratio by dropping a tooth on the front. Costs a whole lot less! While some argue to the contrary (citing wear issues on the 12T for example) I've had zero trouble with a 12T. Don't have to mess with chain length, chain guide interference etc.

220# is way too much for the .36s the KDX comes with (don't take it personally ;))

Don't know what kind of riding you do, but if bottom-end is what you're after, a KG35 (torque) is what you want.

A silencer is not a good choice if you're looking for $$->performance gains. You'd be much further ahead sending your carb to R&B Designs to have your carb modified. I could say 'IMO'..but I'll defer to someone that everyone would agree with.......

Check this out:


Canadian Dave
Moderator Joined: Apr 99Alberta, Canada posted 03-19-2001 08:51 AM Staff Use Only:
" I'm really a low end freak " . . . then the carb mod is a must have. Its one of the best mods I've ever done. Very impressive btm end throttle response allows you to chug around in a gear higher than you normally would and lug the engine throught the nasty stuff keeping wheel spin to a min. then when things open up off you go. David ------------------www.justkdx.dirtrider.net

Sounds good, doughnut?

Oh yeah!!!!!! Take his word for it if you won't take mine!



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  • OLD member
    'oh-oh' KDX 200
    '86 Nighthawk 700 SC
    (a motorcyle even if it doesn't have a chain!)
 

Canadian Dave

Super Power AssClown
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#5
Mad Max,

Do yourself a favor and move your suspension mods high up on your things to do list. You might be able to get away with the stock shock spring but the fork springs are WAY too light for anyone over about 130lbs. Balancing the suspension will drastically improve the way your bike handles. It will turn better and be much more stable/predicable and turn so much better than it does now. Install a heavier rate fork spring for now then if you find you are looking for more out of your suspension you can always invest more later. I'd think you'd want to go with 0.41 or 0.42kg/mm springs if you were retaining the stock shock spring. You're best bet is to consult with a suspension expert with KDX experience.

There is a section with mods for tall riders, new bike prep and a hop-up guide on the JustKDX site that you'll likely want to have a look at.

Your friend Lord Humungious



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www.justkdx.dirtrider.net
 
- a d v e r t i s e m e n t -

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#6
hi max, im also a 6ft and 218 lbs rider on a KDX 200 here are some of the mods ive made, first off, do the front forks, they a way flimsy for someone our size you need to buy a heaiver springs, and i changed my oil to about 8.5 wt, done by mixing 5wt and 10 wt, what a diffrance this makes, also firm up the rear adjust shock also id suggest setting your ride sag, dress in full gear and make sure your sag is 4", do your self a favor and spend a whole day riding and adjusting your suspention clickers ride and adjust , ride and adjust, this takes some time but when its right, it makes the bike a dream to ride, also here are some cheap mods, open the airbox, also a 12 tooth counter-sproket add power makes more useable power, then spend some money to pipe it, id recomend a FMF, and jetting, altough this bike comes from the factory setup for a 145 lb rider with these mods its able to carry a 220 lb rider, my bike really rips, with these mods, as fast as most 250's and way more nimble in the woods!
 
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#7
Hey Everyone, Thanks for all of the great advise! I have just today finished installing my first upgrades. I may have gone about it backwards but I am getting there! I installed a FMF pipe and silencer today and put on a MX rear fender all from Jeff Fredette. Everything installed easily. Changing the springs on forks will be next, I need to read up on it a bit more and make sure I have all the proper tools to do it. Thanks for all the input and I will let you know how all of this turns out.

Mad Max
 
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#8
Originally posted by Canadian Dave:
Mad Max,

Do yourself a favor and move your suspension mods high up on your things to do list. You might be able to get away with the stock shock spring but the fork springs are WAY too light for anyone over about 130lbs. Balancing the suspension will drastically improve the way your bike handles. It will turn better and be much more stable/predicable and turn so much better than it does now. Install a heavier rate fork spring for now then if you find you are looking for more out of your suspension you can always invest more later. I'd think you'd want to go with 0.41 or 0.42kg/mm springs if you were retaining the stock shock spring. You're best bet is to consult with a suspension expert with KDX experience.

There is a section with mods for tall riders, new bike prep and a hop-up guide on the JustKDX site that you'll likely want to have a look at.

Your friend Lord Humungious


Ok, Springs are next and soon! Have a question for you though. Some where in this forum I found a url to a picture of an airbox mod. The L shaped rubber insert was removed from the lid and between that part on the lid and the rear fender there had been 5 3/4" holes drilled. What wasn't mentioned was after drilling the holes does one replace the rubber insert or leave it out too? Is there anything wrong with not drilling the holes and just removing insert only? Suggestions?

Thanks Mad Max
 
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#9
Mad Max,
I think you're referring to the snorkel right? Anyway, no it really isn't enough just to remove it. What I did just as an experiment before drilling the holes is I ONLY removed the snorkel. I started the bike and reved it while slightly lifting the air box lid. Everytime I reved the bike it would abruptly suck the lid back down into place! This told me that there was still too much of a restriction so I drilled the holes. Try it! You'll find there's more air traveling through that air box then you may have thought.
 

G. Gearloose

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#10
I agree its dramatic how the lid gets sucked down.

Just wanted to add to beware if someone is jetted just right then modifies the airbox they will end up very lean at WOT because of less vacuum, pulling less fuel through the main.

ie my '91 liked a 145 main with stock airbox, but a 152 with the airbox opened up. If not replaced, I suspect the 145 had the potential to frag something on the first WOT test.
 
- a d v e r t i s e m e n t -

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#11
Again, thanks for all of the input. Rode the bike today and wow! What a difference the pipe makes! I was amazed. I expected an improvement but not exceeding my expectations. It does look as though I will have to make some adjustments to the jetting. I did 2 test. One at low RPM, riding along a technical trail and pulling the plug and it look just right, cocoa brown but at something less than wide open throttle it was way too lean. So you think a 152 instead of the 145 is the ticket? I will pick one up and give it a try and let you know how this turns out. Thanks again for all of the good advice.

Mad Max
 

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#12
Max, You should be starting off with a 155 instead of a 145 on your 200. The 145 is a good starting point for a 33mm 220 carb. You might end up with the 152 working better but you will want to have both on hand. For sure take out the 145.--Dan