2004 xr250r mods advice

TexKDX

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#16
Stock bore for a while? Here are the XR250R basics.

Pull the snorkel. Replace filter basket with a UNI plastic model, or cut the wire mesh out of the stocker (lots of opinions yes/no on this mod).

Replace the baffle with a '98 and later XR400 baffle. Don't run without a baffle in the stock can - way to loud and hurts bottom end throttle response. You'll have to waller out the mounting holes in the baffle a bit but it will fit.

Pull the head pipe off and grind out the welds that hold the flanges on. There is an XR400 article on Thumpertalk I think with pics about how to do this.

Consider going up a size or two on the main jet after the intake and exhaust mods are made if you get lean symptoms - pinging, running hot, long choke time to keep it running when starting cold, too white a plug reading.

Replace the fork springs with Racetech k430 springs. Replace the stock fork oil while at it and put in 570cc of oil per leg.

Replace the bars with CR Hi Bend Renthals (89-91 Honda CR bend).

Get someone who knows what they are doing help you with rear sag setting after the fork work is done. The short wheelbase 250 is very sensitive to sag settings. Also help with setting up the controls - bar angle, level placement, shifter and brake pedal placement. These bikes can have perfect ergos and really be good mounts for fast/precise riding. Not a girlie bike - a very capable bike that can teach you bunches about corner entry speed, correct use of brakes, throttle, etc.

Later mods: Go to the Wiseco 12:1 5mm over piston. While the head is off go ahead a pop for 1 to 1.5 hours of porting clean up. Just did this on mine (was 4mm over and stock compression). Runs AWESOME. Lots more bottom and mid, then pulls right up to the top. More power everywhere. Should stay reliable, considering at 12:1 and me at altitude it is not even making stock compression at sea level.

Change out and bleed the brake fluid at least twice a year. Like most hondas, the little xr has excellent binders.

Put a Scotts dampner on it when changing out the bars. The bike needs it with the short wheelbase.

Run a 100/100 rear tire, not a bigger tire. Effects the gear ratios and makes it harder to turn.

Buy a case of Castrol GTX 10-40 for cooler months/climates or 20-50 for warmer months/climates and a half dozen oil filters from Honda. Keep the oil fresh in this thing. Get good at filling it up. About 1.25 quarts, then start and run for a few minutes, then dump in the remaining. The oil level is flaky on the bike. Change it often and fill the correct amount, and what the dipstick is telling you is irrelevant as long as it is not burning a bunch of oil.

Have fun with your new mount! Just spent 2 days in Moab on mine. Rode some gnarly stuff (Moab Rim Trail, Porcupine Rim, Hell's Revenge; 5MOH has still snowed in) on the trusty 284 and would not have preferred any other bike.

Leo in Colorado.
 

slideways11

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#17
What Tex said...plus at sea level a 135 main and a 48 pilot works well for me.
 
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#18
If your buying a new bike(250) and don't think it will have enough power I would suggest that you kick in a few bucks and get the 400. That way you'll save money in the long run and have a QUIET bike. Those loud aftermarket systems that add 1 horsepower at 9,000 RPM are a waste of money and bad for our sport. Plus when you go to sell your bike with tons of aftermarket parts and big bore kits most guys won't touch them. I wouldn't buy a heavily modified bike because I assume they are beat and abused.
 

TexKDX

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#19
The 250 and 400 are very different bikes. VERY DIFFERENT. It is not just about displacement and power.

I have no plans to sell my bike. I made it for me to ride, not to sell. Opinions are like a-holes - everybody has one.
 
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#20
1350CFM said:
If your buying a new bike(250) and don't think it will have enough power I would suggest that you kick in a few bucks and get the 400. That way you'll save money in the long run and have a QUIET bike. Those loud aftermarket systems that add 1 horsepower at 9,000 RPM are a waste of money and bad for our sport. Plus when you go to sell your bike with tons of aftermarket parts and big bore kits most guys won't touch them. I wouldn't buy a heavily modified bike because I assume they are beat and abused.
A friend of mine has a 2001 XR250 with an FMF Q muffler and it isn't loud at all. My dad's 02 has the Supertrapp. It is louder and does make more power, but the FMF works great. And you dont have to wear earplugs while riding the bike.

The main problem that my dad and my friend were fixing with the bike was that it bogged with the stock muffler as soon as the throttle was whacked open. If I buy an XR, I am buying a Q before I leave the dealer. And ProTaper bars....... :thumb:

The XR400 isn't just more $$$, its heavier and taller.
 
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#21
1996 xr250 is the same

i have a 1996 xr250r that its maxed out to the limit. I have a Big Gun exhaust and header which made a huge difference. that satisfied me for a little while then i got the 280cc kit. this was the same power increase as the full exhaust and it satisfied me for a little bit. i just got an fcr pumper carb which made the diggest difference out of all of them. i'm starting to run race gas which gives it 4 more horsepower but you have to be willing to spend $5-$6 a gallon. the complete exhaust, 280cc kit, and carb was about $1250. if u get the carbuerator you have to get the Xr400 air boot and cables.
 

Patman

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#22
Race gas giving 4hp on an lightly modded XR250? I'd like to see the dyno chart for this.
 

TexKDX

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#23
you and me both Brother. You gonna drag that underpowered ill-handling POS up here this year or what? Maybe we'd both be better off trading them for an XR 400 :-)Riding season has started in the southern part of the state about 1.5 hrs from here. Also Utah is primo right now. Leo.
 

Patman

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#24
YES! This year for sure or I will have to take up knitting!! Perhaps the week prior to DW'04 if that will work. Gona' have to find some of that speical race gas sine I'll be dropping a few HP at elevation.