julien_d said:Cast pistons - less expensive, can run tighter tolerance, good enough for most riders, more forgiving for the noob that want's to pin the bike right after it starts to "clean it out". Requires very little warm up time.
forged pistons - stronger, longer service life, less forgiving to the idiot that tries to cold seize the bike, needs a larger cold clearance, and yes, that additional cold clearance can cause piston slap at startup and wear the bore quicker (but only for that same idiot who pins it when the piston is still cold). You can also build up some incredible hot spots this year, and seize a forged piston in the bore right quick. This is probably what earned wiseco the name siezico back in the day. Proper warm up is imperative with a forged piston.
Certain bikes really need to avoid pro-x pistons to prevent shattered skirts. KDX220 is one that comes to mind. Some models of the yz250 seem to have issues with the pro-x piston as well.
A forged piston will last longer, yes. Either piston run too long will cause problems though. While the cast might drop it's skirts from fatigue, the forged will continue to wear down and cause piston slap eating up the plating or forcing the bore out of round. Either way you go you need to service the top end like you should!
Very good explanation!
They both will fail, just at different rates and in different ways. For me I will never run a forged piston. Seen too many failures in the snowmobile world so I stay clear of them.