wallasaki

Member
May 23, 2002
95
0
Saved the best winter project for last. I will be attempting my first fork oil change and by the looks of the manual - I'm suspended.... For the most part, I believe I can pull this off, but a few questions keep me from starting. And a special thanks to those who answer, someday I may become a "useful" member of this site when I can start answering, instead of asking.

1. Can I do this w/out special tools - (e.g. fork oil level gague)?
2. 530+-ml per fork or 1/2 of 530ml per fork leg
3. Will different oil(heavier?) decrease softness-rider wt 155lbs
4. Should anything be repaced during process?
5. Any short cuts or heads ups on procedure?

Thanks a mill. - 2002 kdx 200
 

gwhII

Member
Mar 31, 2003
238
0
wallasaki said:
Saved the best winter project for last. I will be attempting my first fork oil change and by the looks of the manual - I'm suspended.... For the most part, I believe I can pull this off, but a few questions keep me from starting. And a special thanks to those who answer, someday I may become a "useful" member of this site when I can start answering, instead of asking.

1. Can I do this w/out special tools - (e.g. fork oil level gague)?
2. 530+-ml per fork or 1/2 of 530ml per fork leg
3. Will different oil(heavier?) decrease softness-rider wt 155lbs
4. Should anything be repaced during process?
5. Any short cuts or heads ups on procedure?

Thanks a mill. - 2002 kdx 200

(1) You're going to have to pull your springs so you're going to need a fork spring holder to remove the fork spring. I've read of people using a 7/16" wrench but I fabbed one out of a wood plane blade that had a 7/16" channel (2 inch wood plane) and cut off the edge. For fork oil level, if you don't want to make a gauge (look at www.dirtrider.net/justkdx tools), I'd probably get a piece of wood dowel and mark off 87mm or whatever you like and pour carefully at the end. If you're going to hold it in a vise, get some cheap soft jaws for your vice so that it won't marr the finish on the slider. The fork cap takes a 30mm socket too.

(2) That's 530ml per leg. Since you're not taking the leg completely apart, there will be some oil left in the cartridge so you'll have to adjust accordingly. I'd fill it most of the way first and pump up the cartridge and then top off to specific level.

(3) Heavier weight oil should make the ride rougher/harder since it'd be harder to push the oil through the valve. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

(4) You're not taking your forks competely apart so there shouldn't be anything you could change. Check your o-ring in the fork cap though it should be fine.

(5) I found it easier to measure fork oil level and reassemble in a vise on my work bench.

Best,
Greg
 

KDXFreestyle

Damn Yankees
Member
Nov 19, 2002
645
0
you dont need ANY special tools whatso ever. Not even a vise.

For the fork spring holder, just push down the spring with your hand, and hold it, or have someone else do it as you take off the cap. its not that hard to do.
 

gwhII

Member
Mar 31, 2003
238
0
KDXFreestyle said:
you dont need ANY special tools whatso ever. Not even a vise.

For the fork spring holder, just push down the spring with your hand, and hold it, or have someone else do it as you take off the cap. its not that hard to do.

Didn't say that it was needed, just made it easier to do when I'm alone. Also makes it easier to me to accurately measure fork oil level since the fork is 90 degrees. To each his own.
 

NM_KDX200

Member
Dec 29, 2002
441
0
I just changed mine- have done it before. I just hold the spring down and use a 17mm wrench to hold the nut. Easy. For an oil level gauge, I have a piece of clear plastic tubing attached to a big syringe (check feed stores....). Wrap a piece of duct tape around the tubing in a "flag" and hold it against the side of the fork. Then just suck the excess out with the syringe. Helps to have a helper to either hold the tubing or pull the syringe. Clean outside of the forks well before re-mounting.
 

23jayhawk

Sponsoring Member
Apr 30, 2002
675
0
How many of you go the extra work of completely disassembling your forks, including removing the base valve, when you service them? I'm wondering if it's like changing engine oil but not the filter... :think:
 

Twiztid One

~SPONSOR~
Aug 19, 2003
312
0
i just did mine and changed the springs and it was very easy , i dont think youll have any problems . i did not use any spacial tools and yes you can go with heavier fork fluid . it kinda a trrial and error thing , i would start about 7w and see how it does then the next year do it with 10W and so on and find a happy medium . good luck , jeff
 
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