Help! I killed my bike.
- Thread starter theckeler
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theckeler
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- Feb 1, 2009
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- #54
Maybe, we'll see... I doubt it would start. I've got a couple people looking at the picts and giving me some advice. One guy builds hot rods and does works with engines on a daily basis, gonna run it into the local hot rod shop and see what they say.
Yeah, wobbling back and forth is normal, that is if you mean from side to side. Up and down play there should be absolutely none. If you hold the crank and pull straight up on the rod it should have no give.
At this point I would say the bottom end is probably fine, assuming you can flush it out well and there is no problem with the crank bearings. If you put it back together and try to run it, the engine will probably be shot in a very short amount if time. Piston wear will be intense, and half a piston down in your case can cause some serious damage.
Anyway, it's not too bad to get it replated and replace the piston (again). You can always cheap out and use a factory piston, they work just fine. For what you have in the bike now, you'll still be coming out ok. Of course, this is assuming the rest of the bike is fairly solid. Good bearings, forks and shocks are good, etc.
Just decide if you think the bike is worth it, or if you can get something you like better by selling what you have and adding in the money that would have been spent repairing it.
At this point I would say the bottom end is probably fine, assuming you can flush it out well and there is no problem with the crank bearings. If you put it back together and try to run it, the engine will probably be shot in a very short amount if time. Piston wear will be intense, and half a piston down in your case can cause some serious damage.
Anyway, it's not too bad to get it replated and replace the piston (again). You can always cheap out and use a factory piston, they work just fine. For what you have in the bike now, you'll still be coming out ok. Of course, this is assuming the rest of the bike is fairly solid. Good bearings, forks and shocks are good, etc.
Just decide if you think the bike is worth it, or if you can get something you like better by selling what you have and adding in the money that would have been spent repairing it.
theckeler
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We'll see how it goes, if I install the current cylinder then I'll be taking it slow, testing compression before starting and trying to get a feel for it.
What do I use to flush out the bottom, I have to either take out the engine to turn upside down or turn the bike upside down right?
What do I use to flush out the bottom, I have to either take out the engine to turn upside down or turn the bike upside down right?
aaronnaland
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- Jan 19, 2009
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theckeler said:
I would just take the engine out. If you have time mabey even split it open and make sure there is nothing wrong with the bottom end before investing in another piston.
I usually flush with diesel fuel cut with some 2 stroke oil. You should blow it out really well with an air compressor first, and then flush really well. Turning the bike upside down or removing the engine will be required. Whichever you do is up to you. It's pretty easy to pull the motor out though.
J.
J.
Problem, there is a rotor, its magnetic, it can pull pieces over between the seal and bearing. No way to rinse it out. Rinsing with fuel has a tendency to make fine metal particles cling. Hot soapy water, and douche with wd40. Call Eric and ask what it will cost to fix the bore and send you atop end kit/complete engine kit with it.(he does know wiseco pretty good!) I do not think its as much as you think? You may be able to put a new bottom end for under 200 dollars. Usually you can rebuild the top and bottom for around 300, plus fixing the bore. Road trip to Cleveland? I can make it in 4~5 hours tops? This frigging site, and the local tree bashers have got me thinking,,, and the Naked City enduro!
theckeler
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whenfoxforks-ruled said:
Thanks, Eric from ??, your thinking $300 total? or just for the repair work? I would drop $300 if it was fixed correctly. I just don't want to drop $200 for a replate, only to have that one destroyed. If I run it to a shop here most likely they will be way more. Wonder how much it would be to ship the engine to you? I've shipped quite a few things that large and don't think the engine is that heavy.
I also have a line on a cylinder on ebay, going to keep an eye on it and if cheap enough snag it. The guy said it was pulled and replaced with a larger bore one and has little hours on it. I could snag that, get the bottom done for the $300 and use the old piston/rings. hmmm
Eric at Forward Motion, or Jeff at Fredette Racing. Call them and ask? I have got some killer stuff off Fleabay, and some killed stuff also!
aaronnaland
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- Jan 19, 2009
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I wouldnt reuse the piston and rings but if you really want to i would at least replace the ring which will cost almost nothing. the dings in the ring will show up in the cylinder wall really quick.
aaronnaland
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- Jan 19, 2009
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theckeler said:
Thanks would work New rings will make it run better if there older i do believe.
theckeler
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Anyone wants it let me know maybe I'll let it go, or will trade with cash if needed for a bike that runs. I recently put in Boysen Power Reeds, F/R wheel bearings, redid the brake lines and caliper on the rear, new Moose air filter, brand new front light (Acerbis Dimension), new throttle cable, and redid/cleaned up the wiring all of that has no milage/hours since it was done in the past few months. This thing is fried and I don't want to spend the time nor money on it.
theckeler
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Just an update. I found a cylinder off ebay for $65, got some new clips, snagged some rings and used the old (orig) piston from the bike Cleaned up everything, transferred the power valves, flushed the bottom end (take picts later of what came out after the gas evaporates, part of the circlip came out in the flush) and put it all back together... and I'm happy to report that it's now WORKING! So far anyhow.
Sweet man. I hope it holds together for ya. You did pretty much exactly what I would have done. I know how to hit the trails on a budget when necessary! Whatever it takes to keep on riding. It wouldn't good idea to plate that cylinder at put in a good new piston/ring set when you can afford to do so. Unless of course your $65 cylinder still has cross hatching intact.
J.
J.
theckeler
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julien_d said:
It was from a 2001 bike that was working and looked a hell lot better than my original. There where hatches but faint... a few scuff marks but nothing you could feel with your finger. I'm always, always looking and making deals, with everything I buy ha... got my eye on a piston right now, hoping to score for under $25. Got the one that got destroyed for $50 shipped, w/rings, clips, rod... so there are plenty of deals, just need to wait for them. Funny, thumpertalk guys are saying that it will fail after a while and I should have split the cases and done a big cleanout. I just don't have the money, time or knowhow to do all that. If I get at least a few years out of it I'll be a happy person. In the meantime stay active in finding an engine maybe, cheap of course... or even another $550 KDX like this one.
Its a crap shoot? Material that gets in between the crank seal and bearing is impossible to say, Its good to go. Anything magnetic can be drawn to the left side? Crap shoot. You may even account for the parts, but its the fine grit from gouging. IF I had to do it, pull the rotor and douche with hot soapy water and tip over, a few times. Then do the same with wd-40.
theckeler
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whenfoxforks-ruled said:
Ya thing that worries me is the circlip going below, that is metal unlike the cylinder wall so... hm maybe I'll pull the rotor as well, that's an easy job. Gotta check out my stator anyhow and what is going on there. Now to get another tool... damn these special tools.
Yank the seals and replace them?
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