KTM break in procedure

firecracker22

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#1
Can anyone offer suggestions for the proper break-in procedure for a new bike? What do I do? I’ve never had a new bike before, much less a 2-stroke. I’ve heard a lot of conflicting stories. I have a hare scramble May 6 so April 28 and 29 are my only days to get used to it before I have to race in the tight, nasty, slippery woods . . . something tells me I’m coming home with bruises. Anyway, what do I do when I get my new scoot home? What do I take apart and grease?

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Patman

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#2
Grease EVERYTHING that requires it unless you trust the dealer did it right (many don't). Put thread locker on every critical fastener and put anti seize on the fasteners that hold the shrouds to the tank if they are still using the aluminum bolts with brass "nuts" to keep them from fuseing. Also it's a GOOD idea to pull every electrical connection and give it a dab of dielectric grease to keep the electrons flowing and the connections clean. Adjust all the controls to a comfortable position andget a few extra spark plugs because KTM's are not typically jetted just right. See if your dealer has any suggestions on jetting and will do it for you as part of their "prep". Mix your own fuel (again unless you REALLY trust the shop) and follow the break-in instructions in the manual. Change the gear lube and clean the magnet after the first ride because it will be dirty.

Oh and have fun


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I ride, therefore I crash
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#3
First I would like to say welcome to orange.

As with any new bike, dealer set up is sometimes not as good as it should be. Check case fluid, coolant, Grease front and rear axles, swing-arm and steering head. KTM's are notorious for vibrating bolts loose, everything that you do not plan on taking apart for routine maintenance red locktite and blue the rest that way you can make sure that everything is tight and safe. Start with a good quality oil at the recommended mix start the bike on a stand and let it warm up then run the bike through the gears up and down a couple of times while still on the stand. Drain the case and fill. Then you get to ride, take it easy at first to break the bike in under load for a while and then off you go. Depending on your riding style, elevation you may have to change getting. Fork seals are expensive and have a tendency to wear and leak. Depending on your riding environment I would suggest getting a set of fork boots and under the boots on top of the seals wrap some yarn and tie this also helps to eliminate the junk from getting down and wearing the seals.


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Strick

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#4
I choose the break it in like you are going to ride it philosophy. I ride mine, either new or new top/bottom end, for 15 minutes at no more than 1/2 throttle, rolling on and off when possible instead of off/on type of throttling. Let the bike cool down.

Then, I riding the living -------- out of it from then on.

You will probably get a lot of different answers on this


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Strick '99 KTM 300mxc, AMA & BRC member
 
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#5
Hey FC22,

A couple specific areas to watch...

Subframe bolts, they come loose all the time.

Rear Sprocket bolts. I've watched more than one hub get destroyed because of this.

Safety wire the clips holding the break pin.

Where are you racing on the 6th? We are planning to race the Main Jet HS up in Canada.

So have you decided if you plan on going to Vantage?

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Ellwood
01 KTM 300EXC
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TexKDX

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#6
To answer your first question FC22, it is pretty simple. Heat cycle the motor (start it cold, blip throttle to warm up, feel both radiators with your hands for fluid being hot, let sit and cool completely, about 2 hours) 3 times. After cooled the 3rd time, go ahead and put on some riding gear and put the motor under load. Grunt it around, coast alot, don't run to max RPM. Just try to keep it from loading up and don't WFO it.

While it is hot, drop the oil and re-fill. Let it cool a 4th time, then go ride the SOB. Since you are transitioning from a xr to this, go ride it as hard as you want to. You won't hurt it. Just no WFO in the sand dunes or something like that, but go ahead and run it up on the pipe.

After this "real" ride you is broke in, baby. Just don't let any hot dogs on it during the first real ride who like to keep it on the rev limiter.

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TexKDX
 

firecracker22

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#8
ironmtn--I am racing the Muddy Butt hare scramble in St. Maries, ID. I used to live there (for about 3 months) so I have the advantage of having rode there in the past. And the disadvantage of knowing what it will be like! Slippery mud and lots of trees! Oh well. It'll be a "learnign experience" and will help me "build character."


I think I will probably be there at Vantage, though with out a bike I won't race. Some friends from Spokane are racing and I'll be cheering them on. I'm 5'7", blonde, and drive a red Toyota.

Thanks everybody, for the pointers! I can't wait. Looks like I may go over to Spokane the 28-29 to ride with Bbbom and family--there's some good trails over there, easy enough for me to get used to the new bike and challenging enough to get in shape for the Muddy Butt. I'll probably take it right to the BBR shop to show it off to the guys when I get it and put on my plastic, graphics and barkbusters there, and break it in in the parking lot. While listening to them make jokes about european bikes and 2-strokes! Oh well.

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Between bikes at the moment--but a pumpkin is looming on the horizon!
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#9
I, for one, have often wondered about these break-in proceedures. I can't imagine not doing these things, but what about the factory guys you always hear about who replace the top-end and then go out and ride the SX main? Or Shane Watts who un-crates a bike an then stomps everybody at the GNCC? If it was damaging and could hurt performance I wouldn't think they'd do it...

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HiG4s

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#10
Originally posted by PTCruiser:
I, for one, have often wondered about these break-in proceedures. I can't imagine not doing these things, but what about the factory guys you always hear about who replace the top-end and then go out and ride the SX main? Or Shane Watts who un-crates a bike an then stomps everybody at the GNCC? If it was damaging and could hurt performance I wouldn't think they'd do it...


You have to rememeber, the factory guys don't have to pay for the bikes. In the short term I'm sure the bike is just as fast as if broken in properly (That and I'm sure their mechanic does some break-in) but certianly they need to be rebuilt much sooner (like the next day). You have to also remember a real racers attitude is faster, faster you fool, you fool. Bike damage (or body damage) never even enters their minds.


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Strick

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#11
There are a lot of witness that have seen Wattsy's bike arrive at his races in a crate, never riden. The ride it like you stole it, is his break in method. If FC goes by the manual, she probably won't be racing on May 6.

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Strick '99 KTM 300mxc, AMA & BRC member
 
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#12
There is a big difference between them and us. They have the bikes given to them and if it breaks someone else fixes it or they get a new one. We spend what we can and most of us go into debt, so we want what we have to last as long as possible.

Kinda like a spoiled kid, they do not appreciate what they have until they have to pay for it themselves or pay to have it fixed.

I cringe every time I have to put in a top end in my son’s bike between motos and know that I will not have the time to break it in the way I want, because I know that I will be doing it again soon.


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LoriKTM

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#13
I did a procedure similar to Tex's, with a graduated warm up, short ride, cool down, and repeat. After doing that about 3 times, make sure you change the oil.

Also, once it is broken in and you start to ride it normally, DON'T forget to check and tighten the spokes after each ride, for the first 3 or 4 times. It's a good time to go around with a wrench and check the other little things. (Watch the kickstart bolt, too).
 
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WoodsRider

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#14
For proper break-in, the WoodsRider way!

1) Run your bike WFO into the nearest tree scratching up all that new plastic.

2) Next, find the steepest, gnarliest hill you can, and as you're climbing it, loop out the bike and rip off the rear fender.

3) When you can finally climb that hill, make sure to ghost the bike up the last 10 feet, there's usually a nice big drop-off on the other side that's great for those custom bar-bends.

4) Then find a big rock garden and...

Oh, wait a minute, you're talking about that other break-in... never mind!

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'98 GasGas EC250

[This message has been edited by WoodsRider (edited 04-20-2001).]
 
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#15
Let it idle up to temp and then let it cool. Then just ride it! Nothing is going to happen. This whole business about it lasting longer if done this way or that way is nonsense.

With the synthetics that are run in two strokes these days, the rings never have a chance to seat properly anyway. If you want to really do it right, use straight castor for a tank and then drain it and begin running a synthetic.



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