Discussion in 'Fabrication, Welding, Machining' started by Rich Rohrich, Apr 26, 2010.
My boost is cold too..-135f :nener:
Me too. My goal is to get my aluminum welds to consistently look like that before I die.
Looks like the turbo mods are coming along nicely! Intercooler/aftercooler for density. How about the chassis? Are you putting any time in that, and if so what mods? Any weight needed over the axle, ladders, suspension, wheels and meat?
I put a nitrous kit on the car, haven't sprayed it yet as I ran out of time last year.
Hopefully I won't on this engine this year, its for sale.
Anyone need a good, fresh 427??
Jay - If you are selling the engine, what will you be building to replace it?
Looking to get a large pump gas motor. Staying with a big block but I want to be able to run 93 octane. I can build a motor with 2x HP than what I have now with today's technology. I am looking at 500+ inches, depending on when I have the $ and if I have enough a 555 or 565.
I'm going to go with Calvert Racing CalTracs bars in the rear mated to their Split MonoLeaf drag springs and 9 way adjustable rear shocks along with a 1 1/2" drop, 90/10 front shocks, and hand cut front springs. The battery, fuel cell, fuel pumps, and ice water tank for the intercooler will all be behind the rear axle centerline to start. I'll be using bias ply Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Tires. This basic combination has gone low 7s at 200mph so it should suffice for my more meager requirements. Plus it's a fairly stealthy setup so it attracts less attention on the street. At least for now, maintaining the sleeper appearance is part of the fun.
I'll be running a manual transmission and the hit on the tires with the Cal Tracs is different than with an auto trans. They recommend bias plys for this set up and radials for auto trans setups with high stall converters.
At some point I might end up with a powerglide, but for now I'm going be like Ronnie Sox and row that box.
A few more pics from recent work on the intercooler ice-water tank:
Just finished up the top of the water tank. Next step is to mount the 2000 gph pump on the bottom of the tank, and then tack the sides on.
Made some more progress this weekend. Finalized the intercooler position and made a hold down for it. Made up the charge tubing to the intercooler, and from the intercooler to the engine (not shown) and tacked the flanges together. Now that the intercooler position is fixed I can do the final welding on the charge tubing and can get back to working on finishing the intercooler water tank and the plumbing for it. Not as exciting as Offroader's monster dyno pull, but it's progress none the less. :whoa:
Great job Rich. Have you ever used a cutting fluid for aluminium? I use a fluid called A9 it works the best and doesn't interfere with welding and your tools wont build up with aluminium. If you try it you will be sold on it I guarantee it
Thanks Bh. My fabrication seems fairly remedial after seeing your wicked cool boat project. Hopefully I'll gain that level of skill at some point before I die.
I normally use Tap Magic Aluminum, but I'll swing by Fastenal pick up some A9 Green and give it a shot. Thanks for the tip.
Dam Rich dont sell your self so short. Your work is top notch in every way that I have seen. It would be fun to do a project together some day.
Maybe we could add a turbocharger Hayabusa engine to your new boat.
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