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R1369LS revisited

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Jul 20, 2000
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#1
From the previous 1369 thread, I went from 42 pilot, 182 main # 6 slide 1369ls#5 (bottom) a/s 1.5 out-
to 45 pilot #6 slide 1369ls#4 178 main a/s 1.5 out. It pulls great from just past cracked throttle to W.O. At just open it crackles and pops. I have #7 slide that I could try if anyone thinks that will help...
Any ideas ??
Gary
 
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Nov 9, 2000
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#2
Sounds like it is too lean down low. But I could be wrong about this, so please wait for other opinions.

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'99 KTM 200 EXC
 
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#3
Garyb,

It would be interesting to see how the #7 slide compared.

Last weekend I ran my '00250EXC 74 miles on almost the same jetting, #45 pilot, 1 3/4 turns, 1369LS#4 (slightly modified CEK#3), #6 slide, and #175 main.

At just off idle (1/16-1/8) throttle it had a slight sputter. This was less sputter than the NOZI#1 produced. A 1370LS#4 needle will reduce it more (tried it too) but the 69 goes past the sputter very quickly and never loads up in even the tightest riding.

My suggestion is try the #7 slide since you have it and keep the 1370LS#4/#6 slide as another option.

For those who may want to try these needles, I have to run 30-50% high octane race fuel or it knocks with this jetting. The plus side is there is very little oil drool on the silencer (about 1 inch after the 74 miles averaging only 19mph while riding). Using spectro at 50:1.

James
 
- a d v e r t i s e m e n t -

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#4
I'm running a 1369N, #2, 45p at 1 3/4,#6 slide, and a 180 main. I am curious as to the difference between the 1369N and 1369LS. I did a search, but did not find any information on this comparison. The 1369N in my '00 300 EXC seems to run well up to 3/4 throttle, but the motor flattens out quickly on top. I'm going to drop to a 178 main this weekend to check the difference, but am also wondering if I shouldn't get a 1369LS for tuning comparison.

[This message has been edited by Bigbird (edited 02-16-2001).]
 
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#5
Bigbird,

The 1369N is 1 clip leaner than a 1369L.

Put your 1369N in the bottom clip (#5)position to compare to what we are running. You may find you have been running lean in the midrange.

James
 
- a d v e r t i s e m e n t -

Humai

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#6
James, FYI, I am running a 40 pilot, 170 main and a big fat CGL needle at clip #4 in my 00 250EXC at the moment.

As you'll note, the main is lean relative to the settings in DRN's 250EXC wisdom collective, but I have tried richer mains right up to 180 and it gets slower, spoogier and has less over-rev with every richer step. Put it down to local fuel perhaps.

With the CGL, I occasionally get the much documented "KTM single event lean knock when rolling off the throttle" while riding through tight single track and not exceeding about 1/4 throttle. A richer transition from 1/8th throttle to 1/4 throttle would probably cure this. Low down throttling (less than 1/8th throttle) is very good - much better than the NOZI at clip #1.

My feeling is that KTMs are natural spoogers in off-road riding conditions, because even running very lean, they still seem to do it. I wonder if scavenging efficiency at lower revs and power valve adjustment affects the propensity to spooge with these engines.

I have not finished fine tuning this bike, but I thought I would post my findings so far.

- Grant


S
 
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#7
James - what do you attribute the sputter to at 1/16 throttle ?
Gary

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Strick

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#8
Hey Grant - don't run any desert races with that main. There is no doubt a seizure would occur on any long WFO section. That is unless you are riding in 90 degree weather at 8000'.

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Strick '99 KTM 300mxc, AMA & BRC member
 
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#9
Tried the #7 slide with 1369ls 45p 178m a/s 2out #5 clip. still a bit of a sputter at just open...but pretty good otherwise. going to try #4 clip position next.

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- a d v e r t i s e m e n t -

Humai

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#11
Strick: yes, my settings are worryingly lean compared to almost everyone else here, but I wonder if our gas has less oxygenates than the typical US stuff or perhaps I over-oil my filters habitually. I am still trying to work it out. The CGL is definitely a tad too lean at low throttle. I would like to try a CEK or similar to fine tune it.

My brother in law (a regular riding buddy) now owns the bike so I "worry by proxy" now. I may recommend that for peace of mind he upsize that main if he ever intends to run on the dunes or indulge in any other WFO-intensive activity.

GaryB, FYI, I found that initial needle diameter ( for example, the "L" in CGL ) had the most profound effect on the just-off-idle mixture on the 250EXC with single taper needles and the #6 slide.

-Grant

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[This message has been edited by Humai (edited 04-10-2001).]
 
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#12
Gary,

Grant is right, the 1/16th throttle sputter is the needle straight diameter, or in a NOZ- needle the first taper (of 3 tapers).

A 1370N(CGL) to 1371N(CGM) to 1372N(CGN) single taper will reduce the sputter but can get too lean when riding hard.

I'm a clip richer now at CEK#4(1369JS#4), slightly modified(~1369LS#5). Still #45 pilot & #175 main,#6 slide, with 40-50% race fuel. This is working very well for my conditions, 0-1000ft & 50F. It seems like a good setting for both racing hard or just playing around. There is a short sputter just off idle before the bike starts to pull which helps avoid lean conditions out on the gravel connector roads. It might be an annoyance to some but realize that it's so breif that the bike doesn't load up when warmed up. At a slower pace the CEK#3(1369J#3) or CEL#4(1370J#4) would be acceptable and cleaner running.

James


[This message has been edited by James Dean (edited 04-17-2001).]