[RM] Clutch problem

[Astroman]

I just bought a 95 RM125, when i went to see the bike before buy it i just kicked heard the bike running good but didnt rode it.. well my bad took it home and i found out that the clutch Won't disengage! The previous onwer told me (and gave me repeipt) for new clutch plates from Barnett.

I took the cover off and i found out that one of the spring bolts lost and the guy replaced with an allen one. I ordered the original one to replace it (not sure if this is the problem). I also ordered the service manual from Clymber.

here is a few pics

img21.exs.cx/img21/2393/clutchrm20ec.jpg



img21.exs.cx/img21/4870/clutchrm17uu.jpg


Does this thing that i point out witht he red arrow should be kinda lose?


Oh and im so glad i found this awesome forum im looking froward to read and reply! :cool:

 

[2-Strokes 4-ever]

For some reason I could not view your pics. But I AM very familiar with Suzuki clutches. The clutch basket, (outside cage): On Suzukis they are prone to notching...look and see, after taking clutch apart, if the "fingers" have deep notches in the sides. If small, they can carefully be filed down. Or, you may need a new basket...(a Suzuki weak link). These deep notches will sometimes cause it to not want to disengage, or at the very least it will cause erratic engagement. Your lack of disengagement could be much simpler too...the fiber plates can often stick together after a while of sitting. When you have clutch apart, take each fiber plate and gently remove the "glaze" from each one with a light sandpaper. Make sure you use a quality motorcycle gearbox oil too, and change often (every ride or two).

 

[Chili]

Yes the clutch push rod should be loose. You should be able to remove it with your finger tips.

 

[sick 96 250]

I'm not sure how if its the same with the 125 but the piece you have the arrow pointing at, there should be a little ball in the tip of it on the inside. Like I said i'm not sure if the 125 has this or not, but on my 250 when I put the clutch back together I forgot to put the ball back in and the clutch wouldn;t work. Without the ball in there it made it so my clutch wouldn't work. Just a idea to look into

 

[Astroman]

it has a ball bearing on the inside of the preasure plate.

What size sandpaper should i use? When i opened the clutch the fiber plates was kinda smouth and it was a bit strange because in my previous sportbikes the plates wasnt that smouth.

 

[David Eddings]

Just a suggestion, I would absolutely replace the oem clutch basket with an aftermarket one (such as a Hinson or Wiseco). My man who gave you the info.up there is 100% correct about the tangs on the stock basket notching. Even if you file them down the same debilitating problem will arise, and it's not if, it's when. The aftermarket baskets are constructed of stronger metals, will last you three times as long, and will give you better response from first to fifth. It's also a good idea to replace the springs, friction, and drive plates in conjunction with the basket for optimal results! In fact, thats the only way I'd do it. The only reason I say this is because of experience. I've gone through the nightmare of replacing only what I thought I needed and kept getting the same result. Once you replace these vital components, you'll know your clutch is solid and on your next service all you'll have to replace is your friction plates and possibly springs.