starting to race motocross??

[csas17]

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a 2001 Honda CR250R and i am interested in racing motocross. I know several tracks nearby me, but im not shure exactly what i will need for saftey equipment and performance mods to my bike. Currently the olny upgrades to the bike are a applied racing triple clamp and renthal twinwall bars, otherwise the bike is bone stock. Also do i need a AMA membership to race or any kind of registration to race.
Any information about any of the previous things mentioned or other commet that has somthing to do with my inquiry would be greatly appricated thank you and have a great day.

 

[nikki]

I recently purchased a 2001 Honda CR250R and i am interested in racing motocross. I know several tracks nearby me, but im not shure exactly what i will need for saftey equipment and performance mods to my bike.

Safety equipment must have: helmet, boots, goggles, gloves, long sleeve shirt. Nice to have: chest protector, knee pads, and riding pants.

For bike mods, just go out and ride it. Once you get to know your bike, you might decide that you want to change it, for example, try different gearing, but for now, just ride what you got. Don't waste your money.

Also do i need a AMA membership to race or any kind of registration to race.

Depends on the track. Most WI tracks are AMA, and you will need an AMA card ($39 for 1 year) and a District 16 card (I think $20) since you live in WI. You might find some "outlaw" types of events that don't require these items (fair races, non-sanctioned tracks, etc.), but pretty sure most WI tracks are AMA.

Here's the District 16 website for more info about the WI tracks, race schedules, links, etc.:

http://www.cycleusa.com/dist16/main.php

I would recommend you try to attend an open ride day at the track you are going to race, before racing. Or maybe go to a race at that track and just watch, or find a friend who has raced there before and team up with them for your first race.

 

[oldguy]

where in Wis are you from?

Nikki is correct that you will newed both AMA and Dist 16 cards at any track in Wis I am not aware that any run the outlaw races.
As far as bike mods right now just twist the throttle. *0% of the bikes out there especially in C class are probably stock so you are on equal ground just missing the experience of a few races under your belt.
Dist 16 requires leather boots above the ankle, gloves, helmet, goggles, and a shirt at least elbow length at the start gate. Also be sure you have the balls on the ends of your levers.
Have fun and hopefully we will see you at one of the next few races

 

[HajiWasAPunk]

I wouldn't spend a cent on mods to your bike (unless you just have more money than you know what to with, in which case PM me and you I can tell you where to get rid of it :nod: ). The CR250 is a beast and even the pro riders have a hard time using all of it's power. You may want to make sure it has a good clutch and top end but mods should be unnecessary for a long time.

 

[Masterphil]

The two above are dead on. But I must add this about modding the bike. You absolutely want to make sure your oil is fresh and your air filter is clean. You also want to at least set the sag. Make sure you have plenty of life left in your brakes. Adjust and lube your chain. Go over every nut and bolt on the bike to make sure they are all tight. Check/set your air pressure in your tires. If your throttle or clutch is stiff, lube the cables. None of these things are hard, or big projects, but when added all together, will make a big difference in the way you feel on the bike.

When buying gear, don't skimp on things like boots. Pants, gloves, goggles, and jerseys are disposable compared to how long you'll be keeping a good pair of boots.

Good Luck!

 

[Oldman125]

Gear!! Get a chest protector...the full front and back type.

Practice, practice practice.

Starts, practice starts. You can win from the back of the pack, but its a lot easier from the front.

 

[csas17]

another question?

thank you very much everyone your advice is extremely helpful, but one thing i dont understand would be the classes. Is there just a class for 2 stroke 250's and then one for 4 stroke 250s or hows that work? Another question is that i am in janesville wisconsin which is in south central wisconsin now i know that with your replys tracks such as aztalan and lake geneva are district 16 but the closest track to me is in Pecatonica, IL its like 32 miles away or sumthin like that now i am skeptical that that is in disctrict 16 but im not shure. If it isnt would i need to be a member of both districts? Is that even posssible?
replys would be extremely appricated

 

[HajiWasAPunk]

The classes at most tracks are 125 Beginer, 125A, 125B, and 125C which is 125 2-strokes and 250 four strokes. Then the same for 250s; 250A, 250B, 250C and 250Beginner (250 Beginner is probably the one you want) where the bikes are 250 2-strokes or 450 fourstrokes. There are also vet classes where you can ride any bike but have to be at least a certain age +25, +30, +35 etc. I don't know about the district question you asked. Most local tracks here don't require AMA membership to race?

 

[oldguy]

Pectonica, Byron, and Mt Carroll are all close to Janesville and are District 17 tracks. If you live in Wis (which you do) and plan to race Wis tracks you will have to get a dist 16 card. This card will be accepted in Ill-in-noise Minnesaota (dist23) and Iowa. BUT if you plan to race for points in one of those other districts you will need a card issued by them. You can get cards in as many districts as you want.

On your 250 2 stroke you will also be racing 450's- don't let that worry you many guys at the amateur levels are just as fast if not faster on the 2 strokes.

 

[mtk]

Dial in the suspension, i.e. make sure the sag is correct and that it isn't sprung for someone much lighter or heavier than you, and spend the rest of your money on protective gear for you.

Speed comes from talent and track time, not aftermarket goodies.

 

[oldguy]

go to this link and click on the states you want to find info on. http://www.cycle-usa.com/ there are lists of riding areas/tracks and race dates as well as info on district rules

 

[RADRick]

The classes at most tracks are 125 Beginer, 125A, 125B, and 125C which is 125 2-strokes and 250 four strokes. Then the same for 250s; 250A, 250B, 250C and 250Beginner (250 Beginner is probably the one you want) where the bikes are 250 2-strokes or 450 fourstrokes. There are also vet classes where you can ride any bike but have to be at least a certain age +25, +30, +35 etc. I don't know about the district question you asked. Most local tracks here don't require AMA membership to race?

Haji, I tried to PM you, but I don't have enough "priviledges." Could you e-mail me at rick@mcjournalist.com? I have some Florida racing questions I'd like to ask you. Thanks.

 

[RADRick]

Speed comes from talent and track time, not aftermarket goodies.

I would agree with this in principle. That said, take some time getting the ergos on your bike right. Handlebar position, lever positions, sag (as mentioned) and learn a little about suspension setup. I see so many riders spending way too much money on engine mods and bling who have yet to master a stock bike. Few riders can wring out a stock engine, but are losing speed because their bike's suspension just isn't setup right for them. Engine mods should be left for after you have your suspension dialed in and are riding the piss out of the bike. Beyond an insert or slip-on muffler (not needed for a race model), a fuel screw, proper jetting and any free mods available for your bike, leave the engine alone until your suspension is no longer holding you back.

 

[HajiWasAPunk]

Haji, I tried to PM you, but I don't have enough "priviledges." Could you e-mail me at rick@mcjournalist.com? I have some Florida racing questions I'd like to ask you. Thanks.

Done.

 

[nikki]

Back to the tracks and district cards....

Pecatonica is D-17. If you race Pecatonica, you will be required to have some AMA District card at signup. Since you live in WI, you could show them your D-16 card at signup, and that would be fine. If you have no card at all, they will make you buy a D-17 card. But, then if you race in WI, you'll need a D-16 card too, since you live there.

That's the "rule" as I understand it, although some tracks are more strict on District card rules than others.

Here's a link to the D-17 (north-central IL) schedules, info, results, etc.: http://www.amadistrict17.com


And for your first race, you're best off racing 250 C - which is 250 Novice, and has both 250cc 2-strokes and 450cc 4-strokes.

 

[csas17]

everyone keeps preaching suspension suspension which is understandable but how do u adjust the suspension i know the basics of it like where to turn the screws on the forks and resivor but what does what? also will someone explain sag?

 

[csas17]

also i just purchased a pair of thor quadrant boots. Now shifting and braking are extremly odd and i accedently push to hard while braking without realizign it, is this something that will go away as i break in the boots? Does anyone have any advice on how to speed up the break up process?

 

[RADRick]

everyone keeps preaching suspension suspension which is understandable but how do u adjust the suspension i know the basics of it like where to turn the screws on the forks and resivor but what does what? also will someone explain sag?

The basic adjustments are spring preload, compression and rebound dampening, and sag. Some race bikes have low- and high-speed compression settings. The location and procedure for adjusting them varies between manufacturer and often between model years. For instance, the '03-'04 WR has the fork compression adjusters under the bottom of the fork leg. The '05-'06 has it on top. Get a service manual for your specific bike to find out exactly where yours are. The Yamaha manuals are fairly good at explaining what each circuit does and how to adjust them. I'm sure the Honda manuals are just as descriptive. They also tell you what the stock settings are and how to set them. This is important if you bought a used bike and need to re-establish a baseline setting to start from. Sag is also explained in the Yamaha manuals.

The biggest problem with stock suspension is that almost all bikes come from the factory with springs for a specific weight range of rider and application. If you are well out of the range no amount of adjustment will make the bike handle right, and if you're using a race bike as a trail bike the suspension may never feel right. For instance, the YZ250-450F comes sprung for a rider that weighs between 140-170 lbs. with gear on who rides mx tracks. If you weigh 180 lbs plus 25 lbs of gear you will be well beyond what the bike was set up for. A rider that size will likely need a stiffer shock spring and possibly fork springs before the suspension can be set up properly. In fact, you may not even be able to set proper sag without compromising suspension action. Yet I still see guys that size riding around with stock springs and complaining that their bike doesn't handle well. They blame the tires, they blame the engine, they even blame the brand of bike they're on, when all they probably need is to spend some money on getting the suspension set up properly for their weight and riding style.