Symptoms of mageneto or magneto seal damage?

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Aug 16, 2000
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#1
I took my '99 KDX220 out for its first spring ride this week after its winter maintenance. I cleaned out the KIPS and other spots in the cylinder that was laden with gunk over the winter. While I was doing this I did a complete check of the cylinder, piston/rings. Put a new head gasket on etc. when I was done, and did a compression test.. everything was fine.

Anyways the power is not all there from what it was last year. Especially in 5th/6th gear there is nothing, and top speed is way down. I've checked out the reed boots and the carb. I'm not jetting any different from last year, except for a minor adjustment to the air screw because of the dry cool weather this spring has started off to. Does this sound like it might have something to do with the magneto? I wouldn't have thought it would, but the guy I bought the bike off of seems to think it is a possibility that the seal might be bad. Engine timing seems to be dead-on accurate, and when I first started the bike and revved it in neutral it sounded and felt exactly the same as last year, and thought all would be well until I started riding it. My first guess was that I assembled the KIPS incorrectly, so I had that checked out and it's ok.

If it could be the magneto, what steps to I have to take to test or tell if it is or not?

Confused and Concerned in Ontario,
Armadas Racing
'99 KDX 220R
 

Canadian Dave

Super Power AssClown
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#2
Chances are very slim it a magneto problem or a bad crank seal on such a new bike.

Did you follow the manual exactly when you reassembled the KIPS valves? If so it likely they are in backwards. Some factory shop manuals wrongly identify the left-hand sub port valve. To quickly check pull the pipe and look up into the cylinder. Both sub-port valves should be in the fully closed position. The symptoms you're describe lead me to believe this is your problem. Check out www.justkdx.dirtrider.net , click on tech tips then manual correction to properly identify the valves. I'm guessing that there are literally thousands of KDXs running around with improperly timed valves thanks to this misprint

Other things to check: run fresh gas not last years left-overs, change your plug it could be loading up and starting to foul, make sure your carb is clean i.e. remove the float bowl and flush everything out with carb cleaner.

If nothing here resolves the problem get back to us and we'll keep plunking away at it.

David


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www.justkdx.dirtrider.net
 

Sage

dirtbike riding roadracer
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#3
Take the cover off the top gear (claw gear) , start bike, rev, does the power valve open? I see a lot of this from guys that tighten down the claw gear and snap the pin on the power valve shaft. bike runs ok but no topend power.

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Sage Wilkinson, KDX Link 1
 
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#4
Now that I think of it, when I re-assembled the KIPS I was doing it without the manual's assistance, just putting it back together in the same steps I took it off. I then looked at the manual to see if I put it together right and it said it was backwards... so I ended up following the manual's instructions. I'll be tearing my bike apart tonight, if I'm still confused I'll take a digital pic of my kips the way it's assembled now and post it. I'm sure some of you guys would know right off the bat if it's right or not.

Thanks guys!
 

Canadian Dave

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#5
Make sure you support the vertical actuating rod when removing the reverse thread nut. Grasp the larger round piece just under the gear with a pair of pliers etc. to prevent the shaft from twisting. The bottom on the shaft can be damaged from over torquing the nut of not properly supporting the shaft the removing/installing the nut. Failing to do so can result in some serious clutch or case damage.

David


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www.justkdx.dirtrider.net
 

acutemp

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#6
Armadas Racing,
I will mail you some pictures I took last year when I did a top end job on my bike. They show which on which side you need to install the kips valves. Good luck.--Dan