Transmission Oil

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#16
Apparently the concept of oil based CRANKSHAFT windage (which doesn't exist in the KDX) slipped past you while you were busy impressing Doug with your incredible grasp of the physics of fluid flow.
 
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#17
Geez is everyone out to get sage or what. I think this site is great and i learn more from the people here than any bike shop. Sage gave his opinion on a product and he doesn't need to be insulted it's his opinion and if you don't like it keep it to yourself. It amazes me how grown men and women will bicker like 2 year olds. Everyone has different experiences with products and i don't think he has a gun to anyone's head making them do things his way.
 

BRush

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#18
If we descend into hyper technicalities, then yes, a clutch that's immersed in a full quart of oil instead of the recommended 750cc's will "soak up more ponies" - as will running an O-Ring chain, or wearing all that heavy gear instead of going riding in a T-shirt and flip-flops. :cool:

The real question is: will running the extra 196cc's of oil make any practical difference (power-wise)? The answer, as shown by overwhelming experience, should be obvious. Shifter Kart racing and Super Bikes are so far removed from what we do with a woods bike that they might as well be on another planet.

When I run a full quart of oil, what do I get for my lost 0.074 ponies? It quiets down the gear noise, which I like. I have a little extra cooling medium to wick heat away from the clutch when I'm unmercifully abusing it to get restarted on that dang hill I always seem to bite it on. Changing oil every couple of rides lets me get rid of any clutch plate particles (see above) and any other dirt or water that happened to find its way in. Also it gives me an early warning system to any serious problems (was that a lump of metal in there? :eek: )

Which is why, when asked, I recommend running a full quart and changing often.

[This message has been edited by BRush (edited 03-28-2001).]
 
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#19
I'VE BEEN USING REDLINE BLUE GEAR LUBE FOR ABOUT 5 YEARS NOW AND YES I CHANGE MY OIL ABOUT EVERY 6 MO.I ALSO HAVE FRIENDS WHO HAVE KTM 200 EXC ONE HAS A 300 MXC WHO ALSO ONLY CHANGE THEIR OIL EVREY 6 MO.AND WE DO RIDE A LOT OF MILES.IT SEEMS TO ME IF I WERE A SHOP I WOULD TRY TO SELL YOU THE OTHER STUFF(10/30 OR ATF) AT ABOUT $2.00 A QT THATS ABOUT $24.00 PER YEAR PLUS WHAT EVER WEARS OUT LIKE CLUCTH OR GEAR BEARINGS. I'VE NEVER HAD TO REPLACE THAT STUFF DO TO WEAR (REDLINE IS $7.50) AND IF YOU NEVER TRIED SOMETHING DONT KNOCK IT!
 

BRush

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#20
Redline,

I don't see anyone knocking Redline Gear Lube. I use Redline Water Wetter and it is a fine product. If it was not so pricey, I might give the oil a try, but I have a system that works well for me (cheaper oil and change often). Most of the debate centers around the how-often-should-you-change it thing that we seem to get into from time to time. As to "trying it", when I was a poor teenager there were plenty of times I didn't change my oil for long, long (long!) periods :).

ps. In case no one has mentioned it before, TYPING A MESSAGE IN ALL CAPS IS CONSIDERED SHOUTING.

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96 KDX 200

[This message has been edited by BRush (edited 03-28-2001).]
 
- a d v e r t i s e m e n t -

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#21
There was a comparison of superbike/Kart racing to dirt bikes. Am I harder on the transmission than those guys? Well, no, but the key thing here is the clutch. I'm much harder on the clutch. That's where all those particles come from no matter how good your oil is. I have a 2 stroke street bike and once a year is adequate for the tranny, but the clutch abuse on my dirtbike requires more frequency. Buy whatever works for you, but change it often.
 
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dhoward

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#23
I think you're missing the point here, sage.
My guess is, bikes are harder on clutches than karts. Kart racers aren't slipping and fanning a clutch like dirt riders.
There's a whole bunch of more than anecdotal information on this board.
NO bodys' out to GET you.

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Dan
'98 KDX 200
St. Louis, MO
 
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#24
Ok well it seems this is a topic in which everyone has their own ideas on what is best. I think I'll stick to my schedule of changing my Castrol 10w30(Winter) 10w40(summer) after every 2 or 3 rides. It would be my guess that no oil would break down and lose protection in 2 or 3 rides. Oh I also change it before and after each race. I think I'm safe. I will start adding a bit more to help quiet my clutch. Thanks for all your comments.

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BloodEclipse
00' KDX220 Mine
00' TT-R125L Son
94 XR200 Wife
 
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fishhead

die you sycophant !
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#26
Glad we got that settled!
by the way I run 10-30 mobil 1 and like the way it works.$4-5$ qt and I change every month I've noticed fewer suspended metal particle with the synthetic and it shifts good.
But lets talk about somthing we can all agree on like the best oil and pre-mix ratio.
Sage made a good point on oil level affecting drag. Not all viscous drag is windage induced. With full circle cranks bike are less prone to oil clinging to the crank and gears but we found dropping the level of oil and switching to a multi grade instead of a straight weight oil help the prod bikes do better in the drag race to turn 1. This is a different application but maybe a trip to the dyno would tell the story.
 

Sage

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#27
The End.

PS. Bill please feel free to speak up sooner next time :)


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Sage Wilkinson, KDX Link 1