Scott in KC

~SPONSOR~
Aug 28, 2000
212
0
My question is what should I expect? I mounted the damper and have it adjusted to the manual spec's. Even at a full hard setting it's barely noticable when turning the bars on the stand. I read that this the way it should feel and it's purpose is more to cure headshake than anything. I guess I thought it might also dampen harder with a faster jolt, like when deflecting from rocks, ruts, etc. ,but it doesn't seem to have that ability (or it doesn't feel like it on the stand.) I guess I am just wondering if this is it or am I doing something wrong??? I rode it last night on a long stretch of RR access road, very loose, sand/gravel. I ran it between 50-60 mph and it did seem quite stable and tracked very straight with no feedback to the bars.

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Scott in KC
Husaberg FE501E

"The Durango 95 purred away real horrorshow."
 

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
May 3, 2000
5,349
3
The WER will do a great job on rocks, roots and fast jolts. You just can't tell on the stand as there is no way you can jerk the wheel that fast by hand. The short ride you had on it sounds like it is working fine. Wait until you get it on the trail, you will love it!
 

Scott in KC

~SPONSOR~
Aug 28, 2000
212
0
Thanks. I read in the manual that the adjustment screw should not be turned out more than two full turns or air may enter the system. I think I may have done just that while fiddling with it before I read the manual. I may go ahead and bleed the damper just to make sure. Anyone know if the Mobil 1 ATF would work in this too??
 

dhoward

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Feb 7, 2000
455
2
Just finished putting mine on last night. You're right Scott, It just doesn't seem like it does that much. I'll be riding in a bunch of deep sand this weekend, so I guess I'll be able to tell if it's really doing anything!

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Dan
'98 KDX 200
St. Louis, MO
 

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
May 3, 2000
5,349
3
Scott - IMO the easiest way to do a fluid change is to drain the old fluid out, then immerse the damper in a clean pan with the new fluid, and operate the damper until the air is pumped out. It is much easier to do it this way than to try and use a squeeze bottle.

I had a WER for about 5 years (new bike has a Scott's; love them both), and used several different fluids varying from 5w to 10w. ATF works fine and is about 7.5w. The damper worked great regardless of the fluid I put in it, but at 10w I would tend to run the adjuster a little further out than with 5w.

Not kidding about how much you will like the damper. It is a great addition for almost every bike and well worth the $.
 

Scott in KC

~SPONSOR~
Aug 28, 2000
212
0
Dave, that's a hell of an idea! I can see how it would be tough to get it just right with the bottle. So you just work it back and forth and it will suck all the oil it needs? Do you leave both plugs open? or just the top?
 

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
May 3, 2000
5,349
3
Just the one screw on the top. Leave the adjuster knob in, too. Doing it in the pan wastes some fluid but saves your sanity.
smile.gif
 

4banger

Member
Jul 2, 2000
119
0
I have a WER and it is a pain to bleed it like the manual suggests. Do it like Dave said. I have tried 5, 10 and 15 weight suspension fluid, Belray, and I like the 15 the best. I had to run it all the way in with 5 for good damping and with 15, I can run it about a turn out with the same results. I can always turn it up when the fluid starts breaking down.
 

Layton

~SPONSOR~
Aug 2, 2000
898
0
I have a WER and I bleed and change the oil in it exactly like they show in the manual with no problems.

Dave's way would not flush the old oil out of the unit which is important.

Whoops, I just reread Dave's way and he says he drains the oil out first. If all of the oil comes out that would be OK. I still think the approved way is better. You just take a squeeze bottle and force the old oil and air out. Takes no time at all and is not nearly as messy.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[This message has been edited by Layton (edited 03-26-2001).]
 

tonyr

Member
Feb 15, 2000
20
0
I'm with Dave, only I use a piece of rubber hose the same dia. as the damper and cover the top of the damper with oil. I use a squeeze bottle to first flush the old oil out. I have tried numerous times to do it the way DER says and could always feel aliile air in the system. Using the the rubber hose method ALWAYS releases more trapped air.
 
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