I've seen a few techniques out there for installing graphics like using windex so you can slide them around before you stick them down and stuff but was curious what the best method out there is? I bought some one piece backgrounds with the numbers preprinted on them from Graphic MX and was too cheap to buy their $15 installation kit.
What's your trick for installing numbers and backgrounds?
- Thread starter NWMyers#5
- Start date
Moto Squid
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- Jul 22, 2002
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windex....and a credit card. A heat gun helps if you have really weird curves.
nikki
Moto Junkie
- Apr 21, 2000
- 5,802
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I found a new method while doing Red's 450 backgrounds the other weekend (on the pain in the butt silencer sidepanel). Sit in the truck and turn the heat on full blast and the graphics will bend and shape as needed. Just beware you'll be all sweaty when done (we use Windex as well)
:p
:p
- Oct 28, 2001
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I'd avoid Windex due to the ammonia in it. Put a small drop of dish washing soap in a spray bottle with water, shake it up, and lightly mist both the plastic and back of the graphic. This mixture is what the graphic shops sell for $3 a bottle. A well-known graphics shop told me this.
Align the decal, start at the center with a squeegee, and work out all bubbles. A credit card works well, but use a thin cloth (old t-shirt) under the edge of the card to protect against scratching the decal.
Align the decal, start at the center with a squeegee, and work out all bubbles. A credit card works well, but use a thin cloth (old t-shirt) under the edge of the card to protect against scratching the decal.
I have seen several posts suggesting using water based slipping agents, can I ask two stupid questions-
a) doesn't the water adversely affect the adhesive on the graphics?
b) how does the water get out from under the graphics when they are in final position, surely the credit card squeegy doesn't clear all of it?
a) doesn't the water adversely affect the adhesive on the graphics?
b) how does the water get out from under the graphics when they are in final position, surely the credit card squeegy doesn't clear all of it?
- Oct 28, 2001
- 4,704
- 0
a) Surprisingly no. A light, fine mist only. Don't drench it.
b) You squeegy out most of it, then it evaporates. Wait a good 24 hours before subjecting the graphics to abuse.
I never would have believed the water/soap solution would have worked so well had I not tried it myself. Fender graphics take a lot of abuse in the woods, and after 1,100 miles of trail, they still stuck like the day I put them on.
b) You squeegy out most of it, then it evaporates. Wait a good 24 hours before subjecting the graphics to abuse.
I never would have believed the water/soap solution would have worked so well had I not tried it myself. Fender graphics take a lot of abuse in the woods, and after 1,100 miles of trail, they still stuck like the day I put them on.
thanks Smit-Dog, Sorry to be pedantic, but how can it evaproate from behind a plastic sheet?, and if you are sure it can, then surely water can get back in.
I'm playing devils advocate here...I've never done it other than to struggle with no slipping aids in the past, so if I can be assured it works then I will give it a go next time!
I'm playing devils advocate here...I've never done it other than to struggle with no slipping aids in the past, so if I can be assured it works then I will give it a go next time!
- Oct 28, 2001
- 4,704
- 0
I can't imagine applying a large decal any other way. Applying it dry is just flirting with disaster, especially if it's something you only do once or twice a year.
There is one method of applying decals dry that looks pretty good, but I haven't tried it.
1) First, you need to create a two-part backing so that you can remove only one side of the backing. I think that a horizontal split would work, but I've only seen it done with a vertical split.
2) Lay the decal over the plastic with the backing paper still on. Align it exactly where you want it. Take a piece of masking tape, and apply it vertically in the center of the decal and tape it to the plastic.
3) Flip up one side of the decal so that you can remove 1/2 of the backing material. If you're starting with the right side, the masking tape should be aligned just to the left of the backing split. This assumes a split that runs vertically.
4) With the right-side backing removed and held up away from the plastic, start at the centerline and slowly begin pressing the decal onto the plastic evenly, working your way from the middle to the outer edges.
5) Once the right side of the decal is completely affixed, remove the masking tape from the top of the decal, and repeat the same process on the left side. Start at the middle and work your way towards the outside edges.
6) If there are any small air bubbles, take a pin and prick a tiny hole in the center of the bubble, and press flat.
Given all that, I much prefer the total alignment control and fudge factor that the water/soap solution method affords.
Good luck...
There is one method of applying decals dry that looks pretty good, but I haven't tried it.
1) First, you need to create a two-part backing so that you can remove only one side of the backing. I think that a horizontal split would work, but I've only seen it done with a vertical split.
2) Lay the decal over the plastic with the backing paper still on. Align it exactly where you want it. Take a piece of masking tape, and apply it vertically in the center of the decal and tape it to the plastic.
3) Flip up one side of the decal so that you can remove 1/2 of the backing material. If you're starting with the right side, the masking tape should be aligned just to the left of the backing split. This assumes a split that runs vertically.
4) With the right-side backing removed and held up away from the plastic, start at the centerline and slowly begin pressing the decal onto the plastic evenly, working your way from the middle to the outer edges.
5) Once the right side of the decal is completely affixed, remove the masking tape from the top of the decal, and repeat the same process on the left side. Start at the middle and work your way towards the outside edges.
6) If there are any small air bubbles, take a pin and prick a tiny hole in the center of the bubble, and press flat.
Given all that, I much prefer the total alignment control and fudge factor that the water/soap solution method affords.
Good luck...
- Aug 2, 2000
- 13,510
- 19
Marlin, I like your style . . . :cool:
I dont believe the water or the windex hurts anything. I have used this technique on numberplates as well as tank graphics.
The adhesive is some mean stuff. Water or windex will not clean the adhesive off. I suppose all the moisture gets displaced out the side of the decal if the truth were known.
I tried to do this dry. There were always trapped air bubbles, folds or tears. With a moist decal and a blow drier, everything went on perfectly. I think the decal ends up being more permanent this way due to leaving no exposed edges or folds to collect water or dirt.
Try it on something small first to give it a test.
The adhesive is some mean stuff. Water or windex will not clean the adhesive off. I suppose all the moisture gets displaced out the side of the decal if the truth were known.
I tried to do this dry. There were always trapped air bubbles, folds or tears. With a moist decal and a blow drier, everything went on perfectly. I think the decal ends up being more permanent this way due to leaving no exposed edges or folds to collect water or dirt.
Try it on something small first to give it a test.
- Oct 20, 2000
- 2,969
- 2
Sully, the soap & water method is what window tint installers use.
BrentBlain
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- Aug 21, 2000
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I use windex or baby shampoo and water, and a heat gun to install the stickers. If its a thick sticker and have to curve it alot use a heat gun and put the sticker and it will almost melt right on. Dry's faster too. And to ask about the water being trapped under, it is under but it does evaporate. I installed a clear swing arm sticker on my bike and when i was done it was a milky white color, and I thought to myself what have i done? Well it took about a week or two but you could actually see it dry and disapear. After that it looked perfect.
-brent
-brent
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