Who wants a free Fox t-shirt or hat? I need help

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

I need one person with good knowledge of spark plugs,fuel-oil mix, jetting, powerbands, and other motor related topics to help me get an idea of what i need to get done to my bike. The lucky person will have a Fox t-shirt or hat of there size in the mail with in a week. This seems to be the only way i can get help and i can get tons of fox stuff for free so why not give some away :)

 

[DC10]

You have no idea how much my son would love a Fox hat. Unfortunately, I'm not exactly the expert you may be looking for...what exactly do you want to know, I'll help as much as I can considering how happy that hat would make him.

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

Well im mostly looking for somewhat a online mechanic who can comfortably cover and give info on all the aspects i listed.

 

[DC10]

Gotcha...I'll do what I can, after all, we're all here to help out if we can.




...............................................................white hat-------white hat-------- :laugh:

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

While i need help with seting my bike up for trail riding. The gas mix, jetting, spark plug, everything.

 

[DC10]

Pretty much all I could provide pertains to my KDX and my son's bike. I'm not positive it would pertain to the CR 125, but it may.

 

[ellandoh]

almost all 125's i know of run full synthetic 32;1 92 octane or higher.
standard spark plug is a br9es, little better is br9eg
as far as jetting goes youll either have to find a person with exact same bike, riding conditions , weather , elevation , riding style .................not likely so heres my favorite article on jetting :cool:

Spanky's jetting guide:

A correctly jetted carb makes a tremendous difference in the torque, midrange pull, top-end pull, and over-rev of your engine. If you have never jetted your bike correctly, you will almost certainly gain some performance at some point in the bike's powerband. A cleanly jetted pilot circuit can be the difference between having to clutch the bike out of a turn or not. The needle can make all the difference in the world for the power of the machine in most situations, as it controls the throttle range that most riders spend most of their time using. A correctly sized main jet could mean the difference between being able to rev out high enough to not have to shift one more time at the end of the straight, or the power falling flat on top and requiring you to make that extra shift.
Are you fouling plugs? Many people will tell you all sorts of band-aid fixes, from running less oil, to running a hotter plug. Both are incorrect fixes for plug fouling. It's all in the jetting.
The only way to know what jetting changes you will need is by trial-and-error. No one can give you jetting specs, because every bike is different, every rider has a different style, and jetting is totally weather dependent. Unless the person telling you what jets to use is riding an identical bike, on the exact same track, at the same time, his recommendations are meaningless.
Jetting is fairly simple, and is a useful skill to learn if you ride a two-stroke and want it to perform at it's best.
It's very important that you start with the pilot circuit. The reason is simple. The pilot circuit affects the entire throttle range. When you are at full throttle, the main jet is the primary fuel metering device, but the pilot is still delivering fuel as well, adding to the total amount of fuel that your engine is receiving.
Before you start to rejet your bike, you need a clean air filter, a fresh plug (actually you need several plugs to do plug-chop tests for the main jet), and fresh fuel. One important detail: Make sure the engine is in good mechanical condition. If your engine has a worn top-end, fix it first. Trying to jet a worn out engine is a waste of time. The same goes for reeds that don't seal properly, and a silencer that needs re-packing. Worn reeds will mimic rich jetting, and worn rings will mimic lean jetting.
Before you start the jet testing, install a fresh plug. Set the float level to the proper specs, an incorrect float height will affect your jetting all across the throttle range.
Warm the bike completely, and shut it off.
As already stated, start with the pilot circuit. Turn the airscrew all the way in, then turn it out 1.5 turns to start. Start the engine, and turn the idle screw in until you get a slightly fast idle, or hold the throttle just barely cracked, to keep the engine idleing. Turn the airscrew slowly in, and then out, until you find the point where the idle is fastest. Stop there. Do not open the screw any farther, or your throttle response will be flat and mushy, and the bike may even bog. This is only the starting point, we will still have to tune the airscrew for the best response.
Now is the time to determine if you have the correct pilot installed in your carb. The airscrew position determines this for you, making it very simple. If your airscrew is less than 1 turn from closed, you need a larger pilot jet. If it is more than 2.5 turns from closed, you need a smaller pilot jet.
Once you have determined (and installed it if it's necessary to change it) the correct pilot jet size, and tuned the airscrew for the fastest idle, it's time to tune the airscrew for the best throttle response. Again, make sure the bike is at full operating temperature. Set the idle back down (the bike should still idle, despite what you read in the Moto Tabloids), and ride the bike, using closed-to-1/4 throttle transitions. Turn the airscrew slightly in either direction until you find the point that gives you the best response when cracking the throttle open. Most bikes are sensitive to changes as small as 1/8 of a turn.
The airscrew is not a set-it-and-leave-it adjustment. You have to constantly re-adjust the airscrew to compensate for changing outdoor temps and humidity. An airscrew setting that is perfect in the cool morning air will likely be too rich in the heat of the mid-day.
Now, it's time to work on the needle. Mark the throttle grip at 1/4 and 3/4 openings. Ride the bike between these two marks. If the bike bogs for a second before responding to throttle, lower the clip (raising the needle) a notch at a time until the engine picks up smoothly. If the bike sputters or sounds rough when giving it throttle, raise the clip (lowering the needle) until it runs cleanly. There isn't really any way to test the needle other than by feel, but it's usually quite obvious when it's right or wrong.
Last is the main jet. The main jet affects from 1/2 to full throttle. The easiest way to test it is to do a throttle-chop test. With the bike fully warmed up, find a long straight, and install a fresh plug. Start the engine, and do a full-throttle run down the straight, through all gears. As soon as the bike tops out, pull the clutch in, and kill the engine, coasting to a stop. Remove the plug, and look deep down inside the threads, at the base of the insulator. If it is white or gray, the main is too lean. If it is dark brown or black, the main is too rich. The correct color is a medium-dark mocha brown or tan.
Once you have a little bit of experience with jetting changes, and you start to learn the difference in feel between "rich" and "lean", you'll begin to learn, just from the sound of the exhaust and the feel of the power, not only if the bike is running rich or lean, but even which one of the carb circuits is the culprit.
The slide is also a tuning variable for jetting, but slides are very expensive, and few bikes need different slides, so we won't go into that here.
Keep in mind, even though this article is intended primarily for two-strokes, four-strokes also need proper jetting to perform right, although they are not quite as fussy as their oil-burning cousins. The only real difference in the two is with the pilot circuit. Two-strokes have an air screw that you screw in to make the jetting richer, and screw out to make the jetting leaner. Four-strokes, on the other hand, have a fuel adjustment screw that you screw in to make the jetting leaner, and out to make it richer.

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

Right now i am riding tight trails at low speeds and logging roads at high speeds and im using synthetic oil at a mix of 40:1 with 92 octane. What would you suggest changing my mix too?

 

[DC10]

32:1

 

[ellandoh]

if you feel youre really torturing the motor go to 32;1 if not stick with 40;1 youll be fine. once you pick an oil and ratio stick with it for good

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

Should my next mix of gas should i try out 32:1 ? And if i stick with it do i set up my jets to that mix 32:1 ? So far the help has been good it looks like more then 1 person will be signing out of drn with a new hat or t ****.

 

[DC10]

What pipe and silencer are you running?

 

[ellandoh]

fmf fatty with the fmf turbine core spark arrested silencer for woods and shorty for the track on a 250

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

I got a stock pipe and a FMF Turbine Core 2 silencer

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

But soon to come a FMF Fatty pipe

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

Can i get a spark arrestor added to my normal turbine core 2? If so what will it help?

 

[DC10]

I'm running fmf fatty w/ powercore II-spark arrested. Buddy of mine with same bike runs fmf gnarly w/ same silencer for hare scrambles.

 

[DC10]

You'll notice a great difference with the Fatty.

 

[ellandoh]

Can i get a spark arrestor added to my normal turbine core 2? If so what will it help?

all tc2 are spark arrested ........it helps nothing but to keep from getting improper equipment tickets while on the trail

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

but mine isnt spark arrested can i get one installed? or am i stuck with wat i got?

 

[ellandoh]

but mine isnt spark arrested can i get one installed? or am i stuck with wat i got?

does it have a stamp on it that says something like usfs approved??

if it doesnt youre not stuck

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

oh ok so mine is spark arrested. And i will be getting the FMF fatty

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

Ill check for that stamp but for now we wont worry about it.

 

[DC10]

That pipe will make a big difference...you'll see.

 

[canadian-dirtbik3r]

so heres what i got so far
91 CR 125
Use:Slow trail riding,Fast logging roads riding
Set Up:BR9EG Plug,2 teeth up in the rear sprocket,stock fly wheel weight, tc2 silencer, soon to be fmf fatty pipe.