your clickers your results

[sr5bidder]

One thing I want to do now is play with the clickers on the rear shock.
I would like to know what ya'll have your settings at and how you came to these settings. and what your trails are like

I have done the shim stack mod to the front and have a kouba link in the rear its the 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 not the 2.?
I feel like I'm riding a couch and I real happy with it I would just like to fine tune the ride in hopes to keep the tire marks off the inside rear fender and to get a bit of air when I jump (seems the suspension is sooo soft that it takes alot of speed to get it up in the air)

what i have found is the rebound adjuster on the bottom of the shock effects the compression as well so this is where I'll focus an inital setting then tune upon that with the compresion at the top

I'm really bad about just riding when I get out and not playing with any adjustments, last time out I was set at 8 clicks out compression 16 out rebound in the rear and 19 out on the forks.

 

[domino dave]

sr - Just curious ... before getting to clickers, have you adjusted your sag ? Do you know how ? Glad suggested I was too soft at 5 inches sag and suggested 3 ... World of difference(for the good). Just checking if that's done before you are "clicking". Dave

 

[sr5bidder]

I have 100mm of rider sag and 40mm of static sag,, any sag suggestions for the front I don't recall seeing any posted

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

The front should sag about the same as the rear. Air or spring rate can effect this. Except for trials bikes! Vintage Bob

 

[sr5bidder]

so should I count the 12mm the forks are raised past the top of the Trippletree as part of this front sag total?..

 

[julien_d]

I would not think so. Sag should be measured up front just like in the rear. Not much you can do to adjust front sag other than preloading the springs though, which can be a PITA.

I doubt my front clicker settings will be much good to you, since I'm using the yz250 forks. I'll get the settings off the rear if you think it will help.

 

[sr5bidder]

Thanks JD

I'm looking more for insight and comparision of notes on these things,, like how one came to the settings that they are at right now.

I expect that my "new" settings will have the back end kicking around in the rocky sections because I have increased both compression and rebound forces and will have to dial it back some....sadly I have to wait for a trip to test.

I have read that the shim stack mod had effect on high speed only and suspect I can dial my front in from 19 turns out to 13 turns out to soak up some of the big air upon landing without effecting the pillow soft ride through the nasties...but again..sadly I have to wait for a trip to test.

 

[julien_d]

While I'm not sure what the settings are on mine, I made my best attempt to balance out the front with the rear. Before I swapped the front, both front and rear were equally squishy. The new front end was considerably stiffer than the old one, and I had to increase both compression and rebound adjustments on the rear shock until things felt more matched up with the new front. Overall the bike is much more stable, although it does want to kick around a bit more on the rough stuff if I'm carrying a decent amount of speed going across/up/over it.

 

[Tom68]

Don't try and stop your rear tire hitting the gaurd with suspension settings, that's the fault of the lowering link and to fix it properly you should put packers under the bump stop.
To help the forks on landings run the oil level at the min' allowable dimension (max' oil quantity).

Ps. If you've got a thick skin you can lower your fork oil qty and run some air pressure, you'll cop some flak but you'll also have forks that are plush at the top of the stroke and yet have good bottoming resistance.
Makes a 43mm fork react more like a 48-52mm.

 

[Joburble]

I have 100mm of rider sag and 40mm of static sag,, any sag suggestions for the front I don't recall seeing any posted

I have posted sag info for you on http://www.visualize.co.nz/kdx200

It is info from ohlins, I don't see why ohlins sag would be different to any other suspension. I used these settings to setup my sons KLX300 and my KLX450 (when I had it). It made a great difference to both bikes and I would recommend it.

Edit: I would recommend it for the type of riding I do, tight stuff, tight sandy slippery woods, some open trails, all with decent bumps, ruts, holes etc, but I don't jump anymore.

 

[Tom68]

Front sag 25% of total travel, Rear sag 33% of total travel.
Personally I ignore the recommendations and set mine to suit the type of riding I'm doing.

 

[sr5bidder]

yeah tom68 I might be just screwing myself up, when I get done I might be back where I started but more schooled on how the settings effect the ride, I guess since I had such a good ride last time with near perfect handling for my style I only remember the small anoying details of that ride like wallowing after big air and the rear not really wanting to leave the ground on the medium stuff.

I supose thats what happens near the end of redoing everything,,,, just have to find something to tweak on...

BTW I have pics of how I did up my trail tech vapor I will post in a new thread sometime soon.

 

[sr5bidder]

I have posted sag info for you on http://www.visualize.co.nz/kdx200

It is info from ohlins, I don't see why ohlins sag would be different to any other suspension. I used these settings to setup my sons KLX300 and my KLX450 (when I had it). It made a great difference to both bikes and I would recommend it.

Edit: I would recommend it for the type of riding I do, tight stuff, tight sandy slippery woods, some open trails, all with decent bumps, ruts, holes etc, but I don't jump anymore.

thanks joburble your building quite the page there

I really enjoyed playing with your sproket ratio page

 

[sr5bidder]

New problem guys I adjusted both compression and rebound on the shock all the way in and all was very stiff...fine but ever since no mater what position the rebound is in the shock is very slow to rebound I have even adjusted both all the way out and the rebound is slow ...

do I need to go out and ride it around on some bumps/jumps to work this thing out? I'm afraid something got jambed up or trash may be stuck in the passage at the bottom

 

[Joburble]

When you adjusted them IN did you seat it gently or did you tighten them in. I have read that if you tighten them IN or OUT they can be damaged internally.

 

[sr5bidder]

well I kinda tightened it in cause it felt like there was one more click waiting there

 

[sr5bidder]

Yep I think my rebound neddle is stuck in the end of the shaft

 

[Joburble]

Unfortunately I think you may have damaged it. That is presicely what I read in a manual somewhere not to do. I have no suggestions from here. I think you may need advice from a suspension internals expert :-(
.

 

[sr5bidder]

yep I have been back and forth with that adjustment with no change

I guees I tear it down or turn the housing 180* on the shaft and gentle turn the clicker in to try to pust the needle the other way in hopes that will "un **** it"

 

[sr5bidder]

un **** un jamb sorry cant remember the word I used but it got ***** out

 

[sr5bidder]

oh thats what it was..... un coc

 

[sr5bidder]

but spelled correctly :)

 

[julien_d]

hahahaha!!!!

Sorry 'bout your clicker man. That stinks. I think you'll be able to get it sorted.

 

[sr5bidder]

yep will find out soon enough I pulled the rear shock and havit completly tore down

there was hardly any charge in the badder the bottom clicker works funny I'll explain later but i did get it working...i think it was more part of the charge and that I tighten down both clickers all the way then jumped up and down on the bike creating some sort of lock... hey look a new thread "hydro locked and disassembled shock".... na but i will get some pics and theory up soon

if I'm not breaking it I'm fixing it or fix'n to break it

 

[Joburble]

if I'm not breaking it I'm fixing it or fix'n to break it

This is the exact reason I stay away from electronics now.