Motorcycle and ATV Cylinder Hone Instructions – Flex-Hone

Why pay a shop when you can do it yourself? The honing tool is perfect for de-burring and de-glazing cylinder walls. The purpose of honing your cylinder is to help your piston rings seat in the cylinder and to help lubricate the cylinder as well. When honing make sure to use plenty of honing oil to help sharpen your cross hatches. Get everything you need to rebuild your top end at Rocky Mountain ATVMC.

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Title : Motorcycle and ATV Cylinder Hone Instructions – Flex-Hone
Video Length : “02:16
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    • This is essentially what happens when a motor isn’t broken in properly or you have oil that has been oxidized onto the cylinder wall. The reason your hone a cylinder when putting a new piston into a bike is to allow the rings to properly seat against the cylinder wall and create a good seal. A “glazed” cylinder wall will not allow rings to seat properly

  • I am doing top ends on a 2000 rm125 and 2005 rm85. Both ran O.K. I found problems with power valves/resolved. Jugs/pistons were great. 125 WEAK  compression. My question is do I deglaze nikasil? I’ve heard don’t because the rings don’t seat, like old school smokers with cast iron jugs. I just want a yes/no answer. And maybe a logical reason. Who knows, maybe this will help low budget do-it-yourself-ers, like me

    • Yes, it’s always a good idea to hone any cylinder before replacing the piston. This helps the new rings seat properly and allows the cylinder wall to retain lubrication better. Even 2 stroke jugs benefit from being honed. As the video shows you simply run it through the cylinder 5 or 10 times to get that 45 degree crosshatch and you’re good to go!

    • +Guzman3605 When you hone a cylinder the only thing it’s doing is removing the “glaze” from the cylinder. This isn’t making the bore size any bigger so no you wouldn’t need a bigger piston. The goal when honing a cylinder is to prepare it for a new piston and rings so when you do this it allows the rings to seat more easily to the cylinder wall. If you don’t hone the cylinder before installing a new set of rings, it’s possible that if it’s glazed over the rings won’t be able to seat and you will get blowby

  • if you have an engine that must replace piston often it can be too much and hone each time. think and hone every 10 hours , then I would honet after 1000 hours. with Nicasil hang that thing easily in ports and destroys I have heard , I use another type.
    I run only Nicasil then stopped and hone because it seems like I spend up 10000 km on a honing , but I’m running under 100cc day so it ‘s not like a 250cc

    • Depends on how deep the markings are? I would say no. Generally the ball hone is simply used to deglaze the cylinder walls and apply new cross hatches.

    • I would recommend having a shop take a look at it. From your pictures it looks to be like having it re-bored and plated would be the best option and get it fixed right. A hone isn’t going to fix the scarring on the cylinder. Yes, the bike might run otherwise but fixing it the right way is going to help all of your new parts last longer.

    • +Rocky Mountain ATV MC I thought the hone would remove the excess metal on the cylinder and i think that the metal is from the pistion, from the looks of it, it looks like the aluminum from the pistion melted on the head some how and caused the piston to get damaged way more and i think the hone can easily remove that aluminum if it is from the pistion

    • I would if you’re already in there. You can also look for any cross hatchings on the cylinder wall.. if you don’t see any or if it has any glazing then i would recommend honing the cylinders.

  • I read, for example, a 50ccm scooter with ~1,5in (~40mm) cylinder needs 600-800upm.
    But in the video (OK, more diameter) it seems very slow.
    Also your movement looks slow.
    And the (manually) movement speed sets the crosshatch angle?
    For example, what would be the right upm, movement speed (up/down) and granularity (120?) for a ~1.5in (50ccm scooter) cylinder?
    The final crosshatch.

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