'00 KTM rear brake

GWO

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#1
I want to hear from those who have reduced the "grab" of their '00 KTM's rear brake. I understand that KTM reduced the piston size in the caliper for '01. I've ridden more than one '01 KTM and liked the change. I lock up the rear way too often and need to do something.

Does anyone know if you can buy parts and upgrade the brakes to be like the '01?

Thanks,
GWO - y2k
 

Shaw520

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#2
GWO, After replacing my first set of pads(OEM) with aftermarket pads, the "grabbyness" went away.
 

GWO

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#3
Shaw520, not for me. I've changed brake pads two times and still have the problem. I owned a '01 400exc and have ridden a '01 250exc along side my bike and noticed a significant improvement. The brakes give me the most trouble when I'm racing enduros and I'm going into a turn too hot. There's not enough reaction time to back off the brake and regain control. The '01 400 and 250 never really put me in a position where I needed to back off.
 

Shaw520

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#4
It may be a soft compond pad your using. Softer pads will be more grabby. I believe I purchased EBC's. Try to get your hands on a harder pad. :)
 
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#5
Full met. EBC's R208 will help as does a solid disk. The "feel" is smoother and a added bonus is the pads will last a long time with the solid disk.
 

Jaybird

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#6
I found that I too was locking up my rear wheel mucho on my '00 125sx.
I just figured it was my braking style that needed work so I started getting on my front harder and just "feathering" the back till I got to the 'exit dex'....(thanks to Gary Semics for that term) :)
 
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#7
I had this problem on my GS750 a long, long, time ago and fixed it (the poor man's way) by milling off approximately 15% of the surface area of the pads. Worked fine.

I have an O1 too (I have never ridden an 00), and I was locking up the rear brake way too easily when I first got the bike. I have learned, however, to feather the brake (like the earlier post) and I really don't notice it anymore.

D.
 
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#8
Try a set of organic pads,(97and newer oem cr250 pads seem to last the longest) but they will where faster, hence the need for a solid rotor.
 
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#9
First chamfer every hole and slot in the rotor. I know its a pain in the butt, but it helps. Second buy a set of Dunlopads metallic and remove about 1/4" of material on the leading and trailing edge of both pads. I use a bench grinder for this, messy, but very quick. This is the best solution I have came up with to make the brake less sensitive.
I have searched, but cannot find any other caliper that fits, other than a 01.
Also I instaled a longer bolt through the heim joint at the rear end of the brake pedal and added a spring from this bolt to the empty bracket on the frame. this bracket is for a centerstand. This made pedal a little harder to push, increasing the feel.
 

Layton

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#10
Just learn to squeeze the clutch each time you put the brakes on and you won’t have a problem.:)
 

GWO

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#11
Originally posted by tonyr
First chamfer every hole and slot in the rotor (...) Second buy a set of Dunlopads metallic and remove about 1/4" of material on the leading and trailing edge of both pads. (...) Also I instaled a longer bolt through the heim joint at the rear end of the brake pedal and added a spring from this bolt to the empty bracket on the frame. this bracket is for a centerstand. This made pedal a little harder to push, increasing the feel.
tonyr, thanks for the pointers. I have a few questions...

First chamfer every hole and slot in the rotor
What is chamfering and how does this help?

Dunlopads
Are these Dunlop pads? Are they any different than other metallic pads?

Thanks,
GWO
 
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#12
GWO,
Use a file or Dremel tool to take the sharp edge off the rotor. Make sure you do both sides of the rotor. I took the rotor off and clamped it in a vise and used my dremel tool with a small stone and went around all the hole and slots. Take your time and be careful not to damage the flat of the rotor where the pads contact. It dosen't take much.
The pads I am talking about are called DP Brakes now. Used to be Dunlopads, not the same as the tire co.
 
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#13
Sensistive Rear Brake

I have a similar issue with a bonus. I am currently using (I believe) the EBC MX-S which I think are supposed to be grabby. I was trying to avert a boiling over issue when I went to these pads. I found I am back to locking up the rear wheel very easily. I had aded a Steahly flywheel to try to minimize that, but didn't notice a huge difference. I have heard about the Honda pads and plan on trying them. The Honda pads should probably help with the overheating I see. I think the chamfer is a good idea.
 

GWO

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#14
I called my local KTM dealer and they called KTM to get a price on a '01 rear brake setup. The caliper costs ~ 165.00 USD, but they couldn't get a price on the master cylinder.

GWO
y2k 300exc
 
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#15
Use the ceramic pads by Braking and your problem will be not as noticable, but if you ride in the sand alot it will wear out faster. Solve my wear problem with a solid rotor, pads seem to last forever now