03 KDX200 Exhaust Leak

[mad_german]

Hi all, been lurking all summer sucking up valuable information on maintainance and riding tips etc, for my new 03 KDX200. Great source of info all.

I now have a question. Where the pipe meets the muffler/spark arrestor there is a rubber sleeve that covers the joint of the two exhaust pipes right by the rear brake fluid resivoir. It is leaking out lots of black oily burned premix all over the swingarm, shock, rear brake lines etc. a big mess! I pulled the rubber cover back, loosened the entire exhaust and there is a small gap, ie the arrestor and pipe do not plug into each other all the way seated.

My mate has an 03 KDX220R that be bought the same weekend, we ride together and use the game gas and premix (Castrol TTS) and his black goo all exits at the back like you would expect. Pulling back his rubber sleeve, the pies do not fit all the way together either but his is sealed, no leak at this joint, what gives?

How can I seal this area up?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[KAY DEE EXER]

Put some cable ties / zip ties on either side of the rubber sleeve. My rubber sleeve has channels in it that the cable ties slot into.

 

[CaptainObvious]

The problem isn't a leak in the exhaust, the problem is that your jetting is just too rich.

"his black goo all exits at the back like you would expect"

I would expect to NEVER see black goo out of my exhaust!

Rejet, and sin no more!

 

[mad_german]

Originally posted by RV6junkie
The problem isn't a leak in the exhaust, the problem is that your jetting is just too rich.

"his [KTM300 2-stroke] black goo all exits at the back like you would expect"

I would expect to NEVER see black goo out of my exhaust!

Rejet, and sin no more!

The bike is a 03 KDX 200 about 1 month old with 200 trail miles over 3 Sunday trips. The air filter is cleaned after each run, running Sunoco 94 octane mixed with Castrol TTS 32:1.

The trails may not be very hard but we take it pretty easy. We zing it from a crawl to percieved redline in 2nd or 3rd on little straight shots in between corners. A lot of 2nd gear climbs and descents. Very little use of 4th gear or up. I will be keeping it stock for now, what on the carb do I need to go. Main or pilot jet up or down? A/F screw?

Also my friends equally used KDX220R has no leak but the rear of the pipe opening has a little ring of the stuff just like mine but no leak.

The zipties look like an excellent idea, jetting is cheap enough gimme your recommendations.

Thanks.

 

[Twiztid One]

if your not ready to jet it yet just use a little bit of silocone around it on both ends .

 

[RTL]

Jet, jet, jet.

Also, Moose makes some heat tape that will do the trick. Just wrap a strip around the pipe under the blue rubber and you can stop the goo until your jetting is dialed in.

 

[John Harris]

I use screw clamps on both sides of the rubber gasket. The black spoose comes from jetting. Lots of threads on how to do this right, but for starters go one size leaner (lower numbers) on both the pilot and the main.

 

[Zerotact]

try lowering your needle, you won't have to buy anything, and it will lean you out in the meantime until you decide to start buying jets.

 

[JCW]

From your comments, it sounds like your bike is super rich. If the plug is dark and wet (as I'm sure it will be from your comments), you must re-jet to enjoy the bike. As many above have already stated, jetting is essential for decent performance. I just rejetted my 03 KDX 200 and I had minimal experience in jetting. I've got twice as much power now and I'm confident that it's running like it should run. With help from the pros (certainly not me) on this site, it is fun and easy. Start by reading Canadian Dave's "carb tuning" site which can be found at:

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/, then click Tech Tips, click Engine, and click Carb Tuning

When you're ready to go, here's what I did and I think it's a good way to start. Remove the air box cover or cut out about 80% of it so your engine can take in more air and create more power. You should have a 160 main jet and a 48 pilot jet. Go buy a 155 main jet and a 45 pilot jet (less than $5 each. When you have them and you are ready to go to work, here's the simple drill. It should not take more than 15 minutes.


1) Turn off the petcock to stop the fuel flow into the carb
2) Loosen the screws on each side of the carb (air box and engine)
3) Unscrew the throttle cable from the top of the carb, rotate the carb & remove the throttle cable, slide, and needle (all connected together as 1 unit)
4) Rotate the carb so you can remove the 4 screws from the carb float bowl
5) Take them out (there will be a small amount of gas- no flames nearby!)
6) Remove the 160 main jet and replace it with the 155 jet
7) Remove the 48 pilot jet and replace it with the 45 jet
8) Carefully put the float bowl back on and re-install the 4 screws
9) Re-Install the throttle cable, slide, and needle into the top of the carb
10) Adjust the carb upright and tighten the screws you loosened to rotate it
(twist the throttle & let it go - listening to make sure it's not binding or sticking- be sure the cable is not in a bind with the frame or tank, etc.)
11) Unscrew the idle screw (not air screw) about 1 turn as the bike will idle higher with the leaner pilot jet. This should keep it from idling too high and scaring the ... out of you
12) Turn on the petcock and crank the bike
13) Initially, adjust the idle so it will keep running, but with low RPMs
14) At this point, you will probably see a lot better performance. Follow Canadian Dave's instructions for a plug check and setting the air screw.

If I've left anything out, someone chime in-

Good Luck
JCW

 

[mad_german]

Originally posted by Zerotact
try lowering your needle, you won't have to buy anything, and it will lean you out in the meantime until you decide to start buying jets.

ok I've got the carb loose and apart. I don't have any jets for it but I'd like to change the needle valve clip to lean it out as much as I can for now. The clip is in the middle of 5 groves, should it lower it one or two positions?

Thanks.

plug is dark and wet oily.. lower it all the way?

 

[mad_german]

i moved the needle jet clip to the highest position effectively lowering the needle as much as I can. I put in a new plug and I also removed the snorkel from the airbox cover. i just took a brief ride up and down the road. it definately sounds like its running better, less smoke, more power. The local kids were yelling for a wheelie, I obliged and it was easier than before. The throttle felt much snappier than before it definately responded well to these three changes. Now I'm ready for the new jets and cut out the airbox lid some more.

I tried to tell my riding buddy that he needs to jet his 03 220R, or at least move the needle for now and said he was too tired to mess with it, but I think I just really woke my bike up a bit and I may suprise him tomorrow. Then I know he'll be eager to change it! :)

thanks.

 

[JCW]

Glad you got started on improving your bike's performance. Be careful on the top needle position when you rejet. I would start at the mid or next to the top position. It might be OK, but follow Canadian Dave's carb tuning link to be sure, and check back in to let us know how it's going.

Have fun!
JCW

 

[breadman30]

You would be better off just to buy a new pipe there was a article in dirtrider mag on this it says the kdx is jetted for the fmf from the factory why go though all this work to one day to decide to put after market pipe on?
it will fix your prob and gain power. just my 2 cents

 

[WILLETTS]

Breadman30 you said"is jetted for the fmf from the factory ".My 98 220 is stock,I just ordered the fmf rev pipe.Will I still need to rejet? I thought with the airbox mod and pipe that I needed a new main and readjust the needle clip?

 

[JCW]

I don't want to argue, but everything I've heard and experienced myself says you will need to rejet when you remove the airbox and put on an FMF pipe. I certainly did and it made a huge difference in performance, fuel milage, the the famous "grin factor".

I think they come from the factory starving for air and very rich to insure a safe break in period and protect Kawasaki. Certainly your bike will probably run OK if you don't do anything. My guess is you will lose about 35% of your potential power with stock jets and experience some "gook" problems from all of the unburned fuel and oil in your engine.

That's just my 2 cents worth based on my experience and reading this forum for a while.

Good Luck
JCW

 

[WILLETTS]

I agree,I just ordered new jets and air filter.Hopefully will be hooked up by this weekend.

 

[mad_german]

Originally posted by JCW
Glad you got started on improving your bike's performance. Be careful on the top needle position when you rejet. I would start at the mid or next to the top position. It might be OK, but follow Canadian Dave's carb tuning link to be sure, and check back in to let us know how it's going.

Have fun!
JCW

With the snorkel removed and and needle at the lowest with stock jets, the bike has much more mid and top end rush. Caused an exciting moment climbing a steep hill covered with large coarse loose rocks when the back end stepped out as it transitioned from grunt to zing....

Which leads me to my main point. It seems as though it may have lost some low end or it could just be that the greater top end shot makes the bottom feel weaker, but a couple climbs didn't go as well as before the change at my meager slow uphill pace.

But the change I made is for the better, and I'm sure leaning the pilot jet would make the bottom of the motor as good or probably much better than it was.

I am ready to install new jets for this weekends ride. Where can I order what I need online?

Thanks,
Jason

BTW frpoffroad.com is still down for maint. boohoo

 

[JCW]

I would do an internet search for Kawasaki parts, or look in the back of Dirt Rider or MX Rider magazine, etc. I buy everything here in Jackson, Ms., but I've seen hundreds of ads for Kawasaki parts in the back on the magazines.

Regarding your comments on how your bike is running, I would put the needle in the middle position or one from the top (leaner) if you still have stock jets. I've always had terrible off idle response with the needle on the lower two positions (richer) regardless of which jets I used.

You are going to really enjoy the bike when you see it reach its potential.

JCW

 

[migsy]

Hi, I had a simular problem with my KDX 200G it has a breather pipe fitted to rear silencer and when I had the bike it was leaking oil (unburnt fuel) from the breather as it had been over filled with oil in gear box, the breather for the gear box was postioned in the air box directly above the air filter. This was soaking it in oil when the bike was ran hard. This then went through the engine unburnt thus filling the exhaust up with oil. Idrained off 200ml of oil and this rectified the problem.

 

[JasonWho]

---

 

[mad_german]

Originally posted by JCW
Regarding your comments on how your bike is running, I would put the needle in the middle position or one from the top (leaner) if you still have stock jets. I've always had terrible off idle response with the needle on the lower two positions (richer) regardless of which jets I used.

You are going to really enjoy the bike when you see it reach its potential.

JCW

On Wednesday around 4PM EST I ordered jets from the new Dennis Kirk site. I ordered a 155 main and a 45 pilot at about $5 each with $6 shipping for UPS Ground. They arrived in Central Ohio friday evening shipping from Minnesota. Pretty good they shipped same day and UPS did it in 2 days.

Anyway the jets are installed. I moved my needle clip to the 2nd from the top as recommended in the Tech Tips>>Carb Tuning section. I backed out the idle about 3 full revs and seated the air screw then back out a quarter.

Fired right up on choke and I let it warm fully, took a brief yard ride, brought it to its lowest possible idle killing it twice in the process. I followed the air screw setting and set it at 1.25 turns.

Went up and down the roads and the bike really seems strong. Sounds great, steady throttle it sounds like a four stroke, no missing at all where it used to popcorn unless you acceled hard enough that it would clean up all the way and fire full song.

The wheelie test was just a simple mid rev snatch of the throttle in 1st and it came right up. Didn't have to bounce it or jerk the bars or sit way back, just comes right up. Didn't just get lucky either I did 3 out of 3 good and high ones, high enough that any additional throttle would have resulted in a loop.

So tomorrow morning at the trailhead I will do a series of plug chops to make sure its not lean and I think I will have a hell of a time not finding new ways to wreck on the power.

 

[JCW]

Sounds like a big improvement. Congratulations on your success. BTW, how did the plug tests go? My guess is you will have more low end power (under a load) at 2 turns out on the airscrew. Just a thought-
JCW

 

[Nick Geiger]

I have just followed JCW 's tips on re-jetting and would like to thank him for his clear step by step instructions. Bike runs significantly better and I have confidence to play around with the carb in future. Thanks again JCW

 

[JCW]

You're welcome. Glad I was able to help someone else. I know I'm learning more every day I sign on and read the threads. It's a great source.

JCW

 

[kdxfreeeek]

BLACK HIGH TEMP SILICONE WORKS EVERY TIME UNTILE NEXT REBUILD

ps good luck