03 KDX200 Exhaust Leak

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#1
Hi all, been lurking all summer sucking up valuable information on maintainance and riding tips etc, for my new 03 KDX200. Great source of info all.

I now have a question. Where the pipe meets the muffler/spark arrestor there is a rubber sleeve that covers the joint of the two exhaust pipes right by the rear brake fluid resivoir. It is leaking out lots of black oily burned premix all over the swingarm, shock, rear brake lines etc. a big mess! I pulled the rubber cover back, loosened the entire exhaust and there is a small gap, ie the arrestor and pipe do not plug into each other all the way seated.

My mate has an 03 KDX220R that be bought the same weekend, we ride together and use the game gas and premix (Castrol TTS) and his black goo all exits at the back like you would expect. Pulling back his rubber sleeve, the pies do not fit all the way together either but his is sealed, no leak at this joint, what gives?

How can I seal this area up?

Thanks,
Jason
 
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#2
Put some cable ties / zip ties on either side of the rubber sleeve. My rubber sleeve has channels in it that the cable ties slot into.
 

CaptainObvious

Formally known as RV6Junkie
Damn Yankees
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#3
The problem isn't a leak in the exhaust, the problem is that your jetting is just too rich.

"his black goo all exits at the back like you would expect"

I would expect to NEVER see black goo out of my exhaust!

Rejet, and sin no more!
 
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#4
Originally posted by RV6junkie
The problem isn't a leak in the exhaust, the problem is that your jetting is just too rich.

"his [KTM300 2-stroke] black goo all exits at the back like you would expect"

I would expect to NEVER see black goo out of my exhaust!

Rejet, and sin no more!
The bike is a 03 KDX 200 about 1 month old with 200 trail miles over 3 Sunday trips. The air filter is cleaned after each run, running Sunoco 94 octane mixed with Castrol TTS 32:1.

The trails may not be very hard but we take it pretty easy. We zing it from a crawl to percieved redline in 2nd or 3rd on little straight shots in between corners. A lot of 2nd gear climbs and descents. Very little use of 4th gear or up. I will be keeping it stock for now, what on the carb do I need to go. Main or pilot jet up or down? A/F screw?

Also my friends equally used KDX220R has no leak but the rear of the pipe opening has a little ring of the stuff just like mine but no leak.

The zipties look like an excellent idea, jetting is cheap enough gimme your recommendations.

Thanks.
 

RTL

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#6
Jet, jet, jet.

Also, Moose makes some heat tape that will do the trick. Just wrap a strip around the pipe under the blue rubber and you can stop the goo until your jetting is dialed in.
 
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#7
I use screw clamps on both sides of the rubber gasket. The black spoose comes from jetting. Lots of threads on how to do this right, but for starters go one size leaner (lower numbers) on both the pilot and the main.
 

Zerotact

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#8
try lowering your needle, you won't have to buy anything, and it will lean you out in the meantime until you decide to start buying jets.
 

JCW

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#9
From your comments, it sounds like your bike is super rich. If the plug is dark and wet (as I'm sure it will be from your comments), you must re-jet to enjoy the bike. As many above have already stated, jetting is essential for decent performance. I just rejetted my 03 KDX 200 and I had minimal experience in jetting. I've got twice as much power now and I'm confident that it's running like it should run. With help from the pros (certainly not me) on this site, it is fun and easy. Start by reading Canadian Dave's "carb tuning" site which can be found at:

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/, then click Tech Tips, click Engine, and click Carb Tuning

When you're ready to go, here's what I did and I think it's a good way to start. Remove the air box cover or cut out about 80% of it so your engine can take in more air and create more power. You should have a 160 main jet and a 48 pilot jet. Go buy a 155 main jet and a 45 pilot jet (less than $5 each. When you have them and you are ready to go to work, here's the simple drill. It should not take more than 15 minutes.


1) Turn off the petcock to stop the fuel flow into the carb
2) Loosen the screws on each side of the carb (air box and engine)
3) Unscrew the throttle cable from the top of the carb, rotate the carb & remove the throttle cable, slide, and needle (all connected together as 1 unit)
4) Rotate the carb so you can remove the 4 screws from the carb float bowl
5) Take them out (there will be a small amount of gas- no flames nearby!)
6) Remove the 160 main jet and replace it with the 155 jet
7) Remove the 48 pilot jet and replace it with the 45 jet
8) Carefully put the float bowl back on and re-install the 4 screws
9) Re-Install the throttle cable, slide, and needle into the top of the carb
10) Adjust the carb upright and tighten the screws you loosened to rotate it
(twist the throttle & let it go - listening to make sure it's not binding or sticking- be sure the cable is not in a bind with the frame or tank, etc.)
11) Unscrew the idle screw (not air screw) about 1 turn as the bike will idle higher with the leaner pilot jet. This should keep it from idling too high and scaring the ... out of you
12) Turn on the petcock and crank the bike
13) Initially, adjust the idle so it will keep running, but with low RPMs
14) At this point, you will probably see a lot better performance. Follow Canadian Dave's instructions for a plug check and setting the air screw.

If I've left anything out, someone chime in-

Good Luck
JCW
 
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#10
Originally posted by Zerotact
try lowering your needle, you won't have to buy anything, and it will lean you out in the meantime until you decide to start buying jets.
ok I've got the carb loose and apart. I don't have any jets for it but I'd like to change the needle valve clip to lean it out as much as I can for now. The clip is in the middle of 5 groves, should it lower it one or two positions?

Thanks.

plug is dark and wet oily.. lower it all the way?
 
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#11
i moved the needle jet clip to the highest position effectively lowering the needle as much as I can. I put in a new plug and I also removed the snorkel from the airbox cover. i just took a brief ride up and down the road. it definately sounds like its running better, less smoke, more power. The local kids were yelling for a wheelie, I obliged and it was easier than before. The throttle felt much snappier than before it definately responded well to these three changes. Now I'm ready for the new jets and cut out the airbox lid some more.

I tried to tell my riding buddy that he needs to jet his 03 220R, or at least move the needle for now and said he was too tired to mess with it, but I think I just really woke my bike up a bit and I may suprise him tomorrow. Then I know he'll be eager to change it! :)

thanks.
 

JCW

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#12
Glad you got started on improving your bike's performance. Be careful on the top needle position when you rejet. I would start at the mid or next to the top position. It might be OK, but follow Canadian Dave's carb tuning link to be sure, and check back in to let us know how it's going.

Have fun!
JCW
 
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#13
You would be better off just to buy a new pipe there was a article in dirtrider mag on this it says the kdx is jetted for the fmf from the factory why go though all this work to one day to decide to put after market pipe on?
it will fix your prob and gain power. just my 2 cents
 
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#14
Breadman30 you said"is jetted for the fmf from the factory ".My 98 220 is stock,I just ordered the fmf rev pipe.Will I still need to rejet? I thought with the airbox mod and pipe that I needed a new main and readjust the needle clip?
 

JCW

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#15
I don't want to argue, but everything I've heard and experienced myself says you will need to rejet when you remove the airbox and put on an FMF pipe. I certainly did and it made a huge difference in performance, fuel milage, the the famous "grin factor".

I think they come from the factory starving for air and very rich to insure a safe break in period and protect Kawasaki. Certainly your bike will probably run OK if you don't do anything. My guess is you will lose about 35% of your potential power with stock jets and experience some "gook" problems from all of the unburned fuel and oil in your engine.

That's just my 2 cents worth based on my experience and reading this forum for a while.

Good Luck
JCW