04 Kdx 220

[fruitfarmer7]

Found JustKDX, last night and picked up my KDX this afternoon. Looks to be in pretty good shape, but no tools or manual. Will be going through the carb, air filter and change out the transmission oil, but not sure of the volume or weight. How much chain slack etc. Not even sure at this point what kind of plug it is running. First Kaw for me, but used to compete against them when I was running, IT's back in the late 70's and early 80's. Been on a XR650L last couple years that I've transformed into a more dirt worthy steed, but the weight is a little more than I want to deal with. Any suggestions, or maintenance tips would be appreciated. Most recommendations, seem to end with the 03 model, but I'm guessing that they are pretty much the same.

 

[crhines]

change out the OEM piston for a wiseco - the piston skirts tend to crack on the OEM's - creates a major repair because you have to crack the case.

 

[fruitfarmer7]

Why does this seem to be a problem with the 220's piston, I haven't noticed anyone commenting on this about the 200?

 

[crhines]

Not exactly sure, but I've read about several 220 pistons imploding and it happened to me. The bottom of the piston skirt broke off and ground itself into a million pieces. The OEM pistons are cast, and the Wiseco's are forged.

 

[fruitfarmer7]

Appreciate your input, sorry about your misfortune. Gotta get a service manual first, I've been all through this before, but mostly on Yamahas, and they didn't have the exhaust valves, and all their linkages. Sure seems like the manufacturer would have been made aware of the problem and taken steps to redesign? I went about looking for the grease zerks on the swing arm linkage, hmmm they did a good job of concealing them.

 

[glad2ride]

There aren't any zerks. Zerks help, but won't do as good a job as taking it apart, cleaning, inspecting and regreasing them all.

The stock plug is an NGK BR8ES.

Any KDX220 tips would apply to all 1997 - 2005 KDX220 models, as they are very similar.

The piston change is a common recommendation, as it has happened to a few people. I wouldn't take a chance, myself.

10w-40, the amount should be on the side of the case, or just pour it in until it is halfway in the sight window. Some say to use a whole quart or liter, but I have seen them blow a lot of oil out the crankcase vent that way.

 

[fruitfarmer7]

Got a call into Jeff Fredette yesterday, he is sending the piston and gaskets, a service manual, as I'm not sure of the KIPS system and such, getting the rev pipe as well. I asked the oil question, he uses about .85l inspite of the cases suggesting .7l said much more would only blow out and recommended the 10/40 as well. I've checked the gearing and it appears to be 13/47 which I think is stock. I am somewhat disappointed in the top speed, expected more out of a wide ratio 6 speed. My old 84 IT200, I believe was faster, but didn't have the suspension or disc brakes. Ordered some heavier fork springs as I am 230#, but hit some nasty stuff in the woods this afternoon and it seemed to handle it just fine, lot of jolts up through the bars, will see what the manual says about rebound and compression adjustments. Jeff said he isn't a believer in zerks on the links and feels it's better to pull the bolts and relube. Appreciate your input

 

[Kwakasaki]

Once you get the pipe on it and make some changes I think you will be very happy with it.

 

[destructo]

I have always used one full quart in the crank case to eliminate clutch noise, have been using that amount for over a year with no concerns. Remove the airbox lid and rejet and your topend will pull alot harder, I would recommend replacing the stock filter with a UNI filter, mine started delaminating. The FMF Knarly woods pipe made a very nice difference, loads of torque, With proper jetting and a good premix ratio, like 32:1, you are gonna love the 220, I wouldnt take anything for mine, have had it for over a year and love it more every time I ride it.

 

[fruitfarmer7]

I pulled the carb earlier this evening and checked the air screw setting, it was at one turn out, backed it out another half turn, then dropped the needle one position, it was in the third. Crispens things up a bit, most of the work I've done on carbs has been with round slide mikuni's and flat slides, took me a second to determine how to pull the cable. I'm guessing that the main is probably what came from the factory, the plug was an 8ES. I'm curious about suspension settings, started checking around looking for dials and knobs to play with the rebound and compression setting, but will wait for the manual to arrive to determine where the controls are and which way to turn them. I am already enjoying learning about this bike. Haven't quite got my hands around the KIPS yet, understand the raising and lowering of the exhaust port valve, that's quite common on snowmobile engines, but this thing with the subports and the Helmholtz Resonator is a little more sophisticated. Again appreciate all the info from those who have responded, and the stuff on the forum.