06 250X fuel pouring out overflow tube

[trailqueen]

Hey all-
It's not often we get to ride here in upstate NY in January so I went to start my 06 Honda 250X this afternoon and when I turned the fuelcock to the 'on' position, the fuel started pouring out the overflow tube. I clamped the tube and it just poured out the other tubes. It's not a drip, it's a pour.

The bike is brand new, (3 hours/34 miles) and it didn't do this when I put it away in mid-November. I followed the manufacturer's guidelines for shutting down the engine and for storage and there's Stabil in the tank.

Also - it wouldn't start at all. No headlight, no nothing. I tried the kickstart as well but it didn't even cough. :bang: :|

 

[IndyMX]

the float valve is stuck open. Either take the float bowl off and clean everything, or try rappin on it a bit with a screwdriver handle. That might free everything up..

 

[trailqueen]

I just tried the rapping it (it was all I could do to not smash it with a hammer), and that didn't fix it. I shook the crap out of it for good measure and it's still pouring gas.

How difficult is it for a mechanically-challenged person to remove the float bowl? Thanks.

 

[IndyMX]

It's not hard to remove it, but will you be able to remove it & fix the problem without causing more problems... That's the question..

There's probably some dirt or gum in the float valve causing it to stay open.

Might be a good idea to find someone in your area that's not "mechanically challenged" to show you how to do it.

 

[sixds]

or get a service manual

 

[trailqueen]

I have the owners manual - I don't know if that's the same as the service manual. There's only 4 screws holding the bowl in place but I'd have to buy an offset screwdriver and probably a couple of other tools to take it apart, so I'm going to have someone else at work take a look at itit. Thanks.

 

[IndyMX]

You will probably have to remove the 17mm bowl cap also.

It would be best to take the carb off the bike, so that you can see everything better.

The owners manual and service manual are not the same.

 

[rmc_olderthandirt]

1) If gas is flowing out the overflow tube, don't try to stop it by plugging the overflow. The over flow is there to give the gas a reasonable place to go. If it doesn't go out the overflow it will flow into the engine and flood it so bad it will be very, very difficult to start.

2) When you put the bike away last November, did you drain or run the gas out of the carburetor? If not, the gas probably evaporated out and left behind a sticky residue that has now jammed the float valve.

Usually in a case like this the "rapping it" or "shaking it" will break the float valve loose and it will often recover and be fine. Now that the float bowl has been refilled with gas it might soak the valve a bit and it might loosen up, so I would try it again. Turn the gas on for just a second to fill the bowl, tip the bike side to side to get the gas sloshing around.

If I was getting ready to go on a ride and discovered this problem I would pull the carb off, take the float bowl off, remove the float, then remove the float valve and take it apart, clean it, then put everthing back together and go ride. Hardest part is getting the carb off the engine.

The down side of this is that you will be reusing gaskets and that will lead to problems. It is possible that the bowl gasket will tear when you take it apart. Removing the float valve and reinstalling it will compress the gasket a different amount and that will change the float level, which effects your mixture, which effects how your bike runs.

If you have the time you should order up, as a minimum, a new float valve gasket and the float bowl gasket. I prefer to replace the entire float valve any time I have float problems but it probably isn't necessary and the valve will probably be $20 or more. What you really need more than anything else is some sort of service manual that tells you how to adjust the float height.

Rod

 

[trailqueen]

I dropped it off at a dealer this afternoon and he said I should have started the bike once a week instead of letting it sit on the stand for 6 weeks. He said the additives in the gas are causing the problems. I asked if I should drain the gas if I let it sit for a few weeks and he said not to because condensation was just as much of a problem.


I've never had this problem before and I've let my bikes sit most of the winter in years past. I use 93 octane and add Stabil.

 

[IndyMX]

You should be fine if you empty the carb before putting the bike away..

 

[2strokerfun]

The down side of this is that you will be reusing gaskets and that will lead to problems. It is possible that the bowl gasket will tear when you take it apart. Removing the float valve and reinstalling it will compress the gasket a different amount and that will change the float level,

I normally reuse my float bowl gaskets about a million times, but I guess it is possible to tear one. As far as compressing it any appreciable difference using the four bowl screws, I just personally don't think that is something to really worry about.

Other than that, I agree

 

[BigRedAF]

Everything RMC and IndyMX said plus when you approach your shut down area turn off the gas and let it run out on the last ride of the day...

The additives in the gas comment from the dealer sounds like a BS cop out so he can charge you to replace the needle and seat as well a gig you for 1-2 hours of labor.

Don't let the gas dry up in the bowl next time and all will be fine...

 

[trailqueen]

when you approach your shut down area turn off the gas and let it run out on the last ride of the day...

Don't let the gas dry up in the bowl next time and all will be fine...

Ummm . . . if I let the bike run until it's out of fuel won't the bowl be dry? Sorry to be so dense but I agree that I can't really trust the dealer to dispense good advice - that's why I ask you guys! :) :worship: :cool:

 

[IndyMX]

Ummm . . . if I let the bike run until it's out of fuel won't the bowl be dry? Sorry to be so dense but I agree that I can't really trust the dealer to dispense good advice - that's why I ask you guys! :) :worship: :cool:

You don't want the gas to evaporate out of the float bowl, draining it is fine though.. I'd not suggest running the bike until it ran out of fuel, but that's just me. There's a 17mm plug on the bottom of the float bowl that you can open to drain it from.

 

[trailqueen]

There's a 17mm plug on the bottom of the float bowl that you can open to drain it from.

Got it! Thanks. :nod:

 

[trailqueen]

Well, I just got the bike back from the dealer today and he told me the needle jet was corroded and he replaced it with a stainless steel one (Keihin #21-42).

I took it for a ride as soon as I got home and the first thing I noticed was the uneven idle when I started it. I took it for an easy ride (1.5 hrs and 16 miles) and it rode fine, actually better than it had before. I figured whatever caused the uneven idle worked itself out, but when I finished riding, it wasn't idling any better. It went from sounding like it was going to stall at 22-2300 rpms to revving at 37-3900 rpms. I called the service guy back and he said it was due to the cold and I should check the air cleaner to make sure it's clean and oiled (it was). The bike is brand new (4.2 hrs 46 miles).

Does that sound right? :think:

 

[Ol'89r]

Your uneven idle can by adjusted with the fuel screw at the bottom of the carb. Make sure the bike is warmed up all of the way before adjusting the fuel screw. They don't like to idle when cold. Usually, the fuel screw will wind up somewhere around 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from the seated position.

I also agree with running the fuel out of the carb before putting the bike in storage. If you just drain the floatbowl, fuel will remain in the jets and will eventually turn to lacquer and clog the jets. If you turn the gas off and run the engine until it runs out of gas, there will be no gas left in the jets to go bad.

When putting the bike away for the winter, it's best IMO to drain the gas tank, drain the float bowl and blow compressed air into the bottom of the float bowl to dry out the jets. If you don't have compressed air, just run the bike at a low speed until it runs out of gas.

It is a real bear to remove the carb from your bike. The electric starter motor takes up much of the room needed under the float bowl to access the float bowl and you have to remove the sub-frame or swing it up to remove the carb.

Just my $ .02