10w40 or BelRay Gear Saver or GS 80w

[Mike R.]

10w40 or BelRay Gear Saver or Golden Spectro 80w

After going to get 10w-40 like my manual says for my tranny for my 04 kx125. I was told to go with Bel-Ray Gear Saver SAE 75w or Golden Spectro 80w
My dealer told me thats what they sell and recommend for the 2 strokes and either are fine.
I choose the GS simply because the label said if the manufacturer recomended the 10w30 or 10w40 or SAE80 Golden Spectro 80w would be perfect and i use GS as my Pre-Mix so I figured I will keep it simple with using same brand.
The dealer said I could and would be fine using the standard 10w40 as the manual said but, still would be better off with the 2 previous mentioned choices.

Just curious what others are using as their tranny fluid?

 

[Speeed]

Belray Gear Saver 80w
change it every 3rd ride no matter how long or short of time I rode for

 

[va_yzrider]

Belray Gear Saver 80w
change it every 3rd ride no matter how long or short of time I rode for

Same here.

 

[trout]

ATF type F - changed after every ride.

 

[CRspode]

Gear Saver 85w here.

 

[ScottS]

This should probably go in the Euro forum but since it was brought up here, I noticed that KTM reccomends 80W for the 300 EXC and 10W40 for the SX/MXC - why is that ? Aren't the transmissions and clutches the same ?

 

[Mike R.]

I talked to a guy at Yamaha of Troy

actually a bud I have seen before at the track and he recommended I stay with the 10w40 for a few changes then switch to the 75w or 80w whichever brand I choose if I wanted and it would be fine.
He said it would be better for break in on the tranny etc with the lighter weight fluid as recommended from the factory.Then later he said switch to the 75w or GS 80w after the tranny is well broken in say 20 hrs.
He said it will shift alot harder and be awfully tight going to the heavier stuff esp being a brand new bike.
So I guess I will keep the GS until later and pick up some Kawa 10w40 for the first few changes.
Whats the Guru's opinions on Tranny fluids?????????????

 

[Senior KX Rider]

ATF type F - changed after every ride.

Ditto

 

[Mike R.]

Ok, here is what a tech at Yamamha of Troy told me.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

He recommended I stay with the 10w40 for a few changes then switch to the 75w or 80w whichever brand I choose.
He said it would be better for break in on the tranny etc with the lighter weight fluid on a new bike.
Then he said switch to the 75w or GS 80w after its got about 20 hrs on it or so and the gearing is well broken in.
He said it will shift alot harder and be awfully tight going to the heavier stuff esp. being a brand new bike.

Whats the Guru's opinions on Tranny fluids?????????????

 

[elf]

To clear things up a little here, A mc gear oil 75w is roughly = to 10w 30 and the 85w is = to 10w40.
So you can figure out what the 80w is right?? Bigger bikes are better off with thicker oil since they have more power and stress the gear box more. But if your bike wont shift smoothly with the thicker oil try the thinner stuff. Anyways the most important thing is to change it often.

 

[Mike R.]

So you can figure out what the 80w is right??

Thanks Elf love the Sarcasm :moon:

Well anyhow I did some researching and did find this article (I simply cropped the findings on oils used in a tranny of a GasGas)

Kinda interesting

Mobil 1 15W-50 (light clutch drag, clutch growl under heavy slip)

Spectro Gear saver 10W-30) (some squealing clutch engagement noise, clutch growl under heavy slip)

Spectro 80W (light clutch drag, some clutch growl under heavy slip)

Valvoline ATF FA (low clutch drag – clutch growl under heavy slip)

Valvoline gear oil 75W- 90 (limited use – worked very well, stopped using it since the additives reportedly may not be to friendly on transmission bearings)

Silkolene 75W (noticeable clutch drag, clutch growl under heavy slip)

Castrol MTX (no issues noted with clutch drag or clutch growl under heavy slip - MY 2nd PLACE RECOMMENDATION)

AmsOil motorcycle specific synthetic 0W-40 oil. (no clutch slip, no clutch noise at all under heavy slip, very low drag - in every regard better than even Castrol MTX) MY TOP RECOMMENDATION

 

[KX02]

I use Castrol MTX myself, it works really well. I can't say I replace it nearly as often as the other folks here. I check it really closely when I do, and I don't see it getting very contaminated at all.

That is a good point for you guys to mention here concerning viscosity. Allot of people do not realize gear oil is rated differently than motor oil. I tell people I'm running 80wt. and they think that it must be as thick as mollasses!

 

[john3_16]

I wouldn' go the expensive route....Go to the auto store or wherever and get some mobile 10w40 (avoid energy conserving oils) and change it every other race/ practice or every 3 rides....Costs a little over 1 dollar....I've gone a full season on a clutch abuse loving CR125 with Extremely HARD RIDING using conventional 10w 40 car oils. Practicing 3 or 4 days a week and racing 2 classes a weekend at near the pro level for a full year..Clutch went out finally after 1 1/2 years while sharing practice duties with another bike...


Use mobile MX2t for the two stroke oil....It's just as good as the stuff your bike shop sells and can be had for half the price..
The Heavier the weight the oil is the less snappy the response...

 

[ScottS]

Thanks elf, I never knew that, or if i did I forgot ! I am now enlightened as to the viscositiy vagaries of petroleum distallates.

 

[Porstala F9]

03 KX-125 - I use Bel Ray Gear Saver 80W with no problems. I dont ride for that long and that hard, I ride at a local spot where there are a few jumps, and about 4-5 miles of trails :yeehaw: but I would guess that I change my oil every 4-6 hours, but that probably seems neglectful to the guys here, but people around here hardly ever change their oil and ride fine.

 

[Mike R.]

Thanks for the suggestions

I changed it today and went with the stock Kawa Chem 10W40.
Not bad for $2.75 (1qt). and I had some left over :cool:

 

[muddy226]

I used to use Silkolene light gear oil, and always had clutch drag but thhought it was just a RM250 thing. However I put new fibre plates in a while back and have been using Castrol MTX since, no drag, predictable engagement and hopefully the gears will last a bit better than before. I chose MTX because it is non synthetic, because I thought rightly or wrongly that although synth might be better for the gear train it would be more likely to contaminate the clutch plates and make them too slippy.

 

[TrackMaster2]

I use 10w30 in my Yz125, and it works great, makes clutch easier than w/ 10w40 but my manual also said to use 10w30, i used bel ray gearsaver 80w once and it worked great, but the 10w30 works just as good, and u save $4 more, which buys me my lever i break every other ride haha

 

[elf]

Thanks Elf love the Sarcasm :moon:


AmsOil motorcycle specific synthetic 0W-40 oil. (no clutch slip, no clutch noise at all under heavy slip, very low drag - in every regard better than even Castrol MTX) MY TOP RECOMMENDATION

I use the amsoil 0w-40 also, good stuff!!

 

[john3_16]

I changed it today and went with the stock Kawa Chem 10W40.
Not bad for $2.75 (1qt). and I had some left over :cool:

Sweet, you can't go wrong with that... :cool:

 

[mtk]

I I chose MTX because it is non synthetic, because I thought rightly or wrongly that although synth might be better for the gear train it would be more likely to contaminate the clutch plates and make them too slippy.

That would be "wrongly."

There is absolutely nothing about synthetic oil which will make a wet clutch slip. Synthetic oil is oil that just happens to be made in a lab from chemical reactions, rather than by distillation of raw crude.

Friction modifiers are the component of motor oils which cause clutch slippage. Friction modified oils should be labeled as such on the bottle. Don't use them and you'll be fine. I've run Mobil 1 synthetic oil for more street and road race miles than I can count with no clutch problems, ever.