1974 kawasaki g5 restore write up; just filled with pictures


sm7482

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ALRIGHT! It’s time for a restoration write up. This is for all you Motorcycle and All Terrain vehicle enthusiasts here on the worlds BEST forum, DIRTRIDER.NET! Now this write up is 4 years in the making, I’ve spent countless number of hours and money on this bike. That’s not including the hours it took me to work and earn the money. This is a long write up filled with pictures so I ask that those viewing it while I’m in the posting process please not post until I give the ok, that is so that the article is continuous. It would be nice if DRN had a RESTORATIONS thread where we could post write ups like this, maybe mine will be the first? Alright here we go guys, I hope those of you in the midst of your own restoration will find this info helpful and those just bored will find this entertaining. Lets start with the background info.
BACKGROUND
This project began in 2007 for my 14th birthday. I had just received a generous amount of money after and decided to invest in another project, preferably an enduro I could register once completed. I decided that The 1974 kawasaki G5100 I’d spotted on craigslist would be perfect. The real restoration began in the summer of 2008 when I finished the restoration of my 1982 XR100, which I also did a write up on DRN,-www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=162817- which looking back on, I’m kind of embarrassed of. The spelling and lack of knowledge is surprising to me.
The Kawasaki G5100 Enduro was born the year of 1972. It was closely related to the G4TR100 with several differences. The G5 featured plastic fenders as well as a redesigned oil tank. It was marketed as more durable and cheaper to maintain with an emphasis on the plastic fenders which could be had at a cheaper price to replace compared to the G4TR’s chrome fenders. It also did not feature the HI-LO transmission as the G4TR. The G5 was a rotary valve, oil injected 2-stroke enduro. It produced 11HP, pretty decent for such a small bike of that time. The rotary valve is what gave it this extra zip, a rotary valve engine does not have the carburetor mounted to the cylinder like most 2-strokes we’re used to seeing. Instead it has the carburetor mounted on the side of the engine under the side covers. Intake timing is not controlled by the piston or the reeds, but instead by a rotating plate called a “rotary valve”. You will understand the theory as the article progresses. The 1974 model year saw a change in crank case design as well as cylinder design. Then the following year was the last year of the G5. But not the end of the bike, the name was changed to the more widely known KE100. The motors stayed much the same but the total look changed.
 

sm7482

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the tear down

THE TEAR DOWN

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This is happy go-lucky me at age 14 getting ready to tote the lucky girl back home. Geez was I happy!
The Following pictures are close ups right after getting it home. Shows the shape it was in. only 9k miles on it but it looked beat.
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Dissassembly

Disassembly

IT’s very important to keep all bolts, washers, clips and little parts well stored and organized. I accomplished this using little bags and a sharpie.
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I was lucky the seat was in such good condition as it was, they’re hard to find.
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Happy 14 year old me excited to be tearing into this bike. I did all of this by myself, learning as I went. No one to guide me except a manual, the computer, and of course, DRN!
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Fender’s pretty beat. Gunna need new rubbers.
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Good organization and storage. All boxes were labeled.
 

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Getting pretty bare.
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The motor is OUT!!!!!
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That’s the end of disassembly. Now the only direction is up; that also happens to be the hardest but most rewarding part.
 

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The Engine

THE ENGINE
The engine is a very expensive and time consuming part. I rebuilt this engine by myself and just about every thing is new. The list includes:
Parts engine, new wiseco .20 over performance piston, gasket kit, all new oil seals, new clutch actuator, new clutch plates, new clutch springs, new grommets, new points, new bearings, carb rebuild kit, paint, bolts and other misc stuff.

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This is a good shot of the carb cavity. The carburetor sits in the clutch cover.
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Plenty of goop and grease
 

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Clutch cover removed, the innards.
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The rotary valve, this one was broken, but I was the one who accidently broke it.
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The guts
 

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Now it’s time for cleaning.
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Paint stripper and laquer thinner work wonders for cleaning old cases. They both cut through the grease and grime excellently.
 

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The Cavity was painted from the factory, over time the paint had worn and pealed away. A scotch bright pad cleaned it up nicely.
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After priming, the cases were ready for a nice coat of engine paint. Semi gloss black, they are now ready for assembly.
 

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Carb was cleaned and rebuilt. It has an oversize jet for the new piston and after market exhaust.
 

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rebuilding the engine

REBUILD<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o3/rock_krawler/kawasaki%20restoration/CIMG0395-Copy.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
The gasket kit, an important part to a rebuild! I bought mine new-old stock on ebay. If it wasn’t for ebay I’d never been able to work on any of my bikes.
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Getting ready to go together
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These cases do not use an actual gasket, instead you must use a gasket making kit. DO NOT USE RTV. The oil WILL break it down and cause leaks, this stuff was only 12 bucks. It’s equivalent to yamabond.
 

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Cases together, the next step would be the rotary valve. I could not find a replacement, the original g5’s used a composite material. After doing much research I found that the late 80’s ke100’s used the same crank case numbers but the rotary valve disc was now a thin metal material, probably stainless. With a new rotary valve cover, and collar, they bolt right up. Make sure you have the rotary valve in correct, I didn’t and had to tear the engine down again. As the connecting arm begins it’s upward stroke, the valve should begin to open!
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The old style is on the left, the new style on the right. Big difference in design but…..
 

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The timing is exactly the same!
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This is a picture of the valve on the engine. I didn’t catch this until later but notice how the connecting rod is all the way down, as soon as it starts moving up, the valve should begin to open. You’ll notice that the way the valve is on there, it won’t open until the connecting rod is at the top of its stroke, not what we want.
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Rotary valve cover on.
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New clutch parts.
 

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Getting ready to put the clutch cover on!
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Bottom end is almost complete!
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Old and new clutch actuators, a lot of these engine parts are still available!
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.
 

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After a good cleaning and preparation the cylinder jug and cylinder head are painted. I painted the head with the Kawasaki swoosh to match the tank!
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The engine is built!!!!!!! Only things left are the side covers
 

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After a lot of work wet sanding and polishing I was able to take these
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And turn them into these!
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AND THE MOTOR IS DONE!!!!!
 

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Frame And Cosmetic

FRAME AND COSMETIC
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The rusty old fork legs were given new life. Using steel wool and a buffing wheel I was able to bring them to a glorious shine. The forks were then rebuilt with new seals and oil.
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A coat of paint does a lot. I stripped most of these parts to bare metal and prepped them for a coat of shiny new black, this includes the frame.
 

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My set up for the paint. First time using professional automotive spray equipment
 

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I was 14 when I painted those parts, I’m 17 now and can do a killer paint job, infact, when I was 15 I painted my cousins camaro, here are some pics of that.
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I did all the body work myself, and man was there a lot!
 

sm7482

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Me spraying the color in our makeshift booth
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Even layed out and painted the stripes myself
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All finished. This was my first time spraying a car and it came out great! Taken at an abandoned warehouse, I love this car. Wish it was mine.
But this is about the G5 restoration so we’ll get back on that track.
The rear shocks were torn apart for cleaning.
 

sm7482

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Jan 29, 2008
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They came out nice, but I tore them apart again and decided to paint the springs black.
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