Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
I adore the USA since I was born, but I'm French so please excuse me for my language, I translate with Google.

That's it I find an old CR 250 as in my youth, those who have friends on facebook have already seen some pictures.
the time to reduce the size of the photos, I would start posting here with comments.
see you soon for more

It goes from there

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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
Thank you
so I got the bike in early August and I went a little bit on the job. I will post the photos and comments until the stage where I am today.
I am still very far from the final reconstruction.
 

Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
For suspensions, original it's really not good, ok at the time we drive with, but we're more at the time and with the evolution that have known the suspensions, I can not see myself go back , this fork is not even adjustable in rebound and rear shock not adjustable in hi-compression.
so for the front, I will adapt the fork (either the original KYB PSF 1 or the spring KYB that I mount on my 450 CRF 2013) triple clapms, the front wheel, the braking assembly and the wheel axle.
for the back I will try to find for cheap, an original damper of 250 cr - crf / 450 crf until 2008 and of course it all go into the magic cauldron of MRP to personalize all that according to what I I appreciate and need.
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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
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very big problem.
the screw is locked in and I can not separate the two parts, I remove the screws from the inside and spraying with oil of sting and I also heat, it does not move a milimeter

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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
and we attack the opening of the engine
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surprise by depositing the valve box, the cylinder has been prepared (well we'll see later) and for the moment I'm going to mount only the reeds Boyesen (which I have always done on all my 2 times since the beginning, the change is drastic) and then once the restore is finished and I have a little more side, I would mount a Rad Valve.

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not rust on the stator

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the part that made me very scared considering the number of years that the bike did not ride, it's like new.

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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
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I wondered what it was like to be a rag.

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It's okay


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not too bad considering the age of the machine

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we return to it, ported but half, no retouched transfers (diagrames) and no cases notigned either, but hey it is neccessary on a 250 ?? although in 88 on the mine I made the total.

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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
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Have you ever seen a crankshaft seal in such condition? that explains the ton of black fat on the engine and the frame.

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therefore wear of the ring and therefore replacement

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So there sensitive souls abstain, we will proceed to the separation of two casings, the tools of torture are ready

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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
and in the end the bearings are ok, they have been changed in the course of life of the bike, but I will still replace everything as it is open.


the box is ok, no broken teeth or other suspicious marks, me happy

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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
here is the rest of the work on the swingarm.
I found myself with the screw of the tension adjustment of the chain of transmission, twisted and blocked by the rust.
Seeing that this part of the swingarm seems to be in 2 separate parts (actually there are three), I decided to get out all to have more ease to deal with the screw in question.

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We see that on the 2 photos below, a kind of epoxy glue.

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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
to try to spread, to get out the part where there is the thread.
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and after a lot of liters of perspiration, I managed to separate everything, I understand why it was so difficult

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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
Work on the pipe
So the denting of the pot with compressed air went well, except that at a time -----> air leakage and there I realize that there are cracks where they welded nuts (messed up) to install a protection (carbon, aluminum ... I do not know) so it was necessary to close by welding as I could because I do not know what were soldered nuts, but it m made fireworks, so not simple and the sheet is fine.


I decide anyway to turn these nuts, which took me in the morning, a sanding stroke to see more clearly below the rust and try to remove the solder and solder patches.
Only I can not get rid of these cracks, I weld for the eliminated but once cool I see another that is created next and sanding I see others!
So do you have an idea for me to be, or you know a specialist (can be a cauldron, I do not know) who could redo the two parts of the pot elbow, just cut or it is crack and redo with the sheet intact, if there are welds in + it will be more beautiful, too bad for the original appearance of the Pro Circuit can not be found, if it can save the pot.


I also did a test of blueing on a sanded part to see if I could redo it on the welds as at the origin, it's good it works and it's beautiful

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truespode

Moderator / Wheelie King
Jun 30, 1999
7,953
242
We have a very loyal membership base still around... we don't check every day but we do visit multiple times a week.

FB has taken a lot of traffic from sites like this but those of us still around do enjoy restoration posts. I forget to hit the like button many times but am watching.

Thanks for sharing!
 

Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
Santa Claus made another stop by MRP's chimney =)

The details of the package a little later, thank you to him for his help in reassembling my 250 CR _yum_

Pfff you thought me ?? but no I'll tell you something, Santa Claus does not exist _BGRIN_
In short we come almost to the end of all the missing pieces.


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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
We have a very loyal membership base still around... we don't check every day but we do visit multiple times a week.

FB has taken a lot of traffic from sites like this but those of us still around do enjoy restoration posts. I forget to hit the like button many times but am watching.

Thanks for sharing!


Thank you for your reply.

I will continue to post my photos and messages.
have a good day
 

Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
Now we're going to have a good laugh

I started to see the shock and as I've already said, it will not stay on the bike, say that we rolled with it at the time, the rod and the body with the piston are smaller and end that for a 85 YZ, even the KX 85 with its original shock ultra shitty, is limited bigger (it's an image) in any case as for the fork, out of question that I roll with it, because even if I reach my goal of weight loss for January 2020 I think that for my weight of form I would always be too heavy for the rod cash strength of the receptions of jumps.

So I may be (if I find the parts) recondition and put on sale for anyone looking for an origin of this time.
You will notice that I just cleaned it quickly and especially the color of the oil that must have been the original one 30 years ago.


After cleaning but before dismantling

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Yum, a good virgin oil dating back 30 years _BGRIN_
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Passage of oil in the stem, closed.
later, the dampers will release this hole to facilitate the exchange of oil flow between the two chambers.
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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
Well as the more years go by, the more the parts (even new ones) become rare, I start to take what I need most now to complete the bike and that is or will not be manufactured. Pro Circuit side so it should be the same as the pot is no longer manufactured at PC.

other parts will arrive, and I will update the photos

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Maxx MRP

www.maxxracing.fr
Member
I get the crankcase and the bolt of the sandblasting, I'm happy but I still expected a better job, already it was necessary for me to blow everything to come home, I told you the sand thickness in the Xmax's trunk, the sand goes everywhere even with the casings closed and filled with bubble plastic + all the plugged holes.
But there are still places where there is still paint and I will be forced to sand, for the price announced at the start which quadruple when I returned the takes! so I'm a little angry, in short, it only takes me once.

All the gearbox bearings are ordered, so the needle cage in the one-handed housing, I'm going to break it down and I'll see to extract the one from the water pump / valve

Fork stop, I test with a large nut to take the measurements, so a stop of 8 mm will be ok, so I think rather than change the frame (before painting) rather as I was blown , drill and tap the tee and install a rubber stop 8 mm thick, it must exist and which is inserted between the two to smoothly damp if I put the handlebars abut on a huge scrub or whip

Spacer for the fork tee made (aluminum) remains to find a dust cover washer of 250/450 crf because that of the CR is in 26 and I need 30 inter diameter, not the most complicated, but I did not not duplicate because the XTrig tee that I mounted on the 450 was not delivered with the dust cover at the price of the thing, finally ... I groan today. lol

it's gone for some photos.
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