95 200 H1....i need some help guys.

[argclh6670]

Hey guys, I need alil help getting my kids Kdx tuned.
Its running horribly rich down low. But seems to go good when on the pipe.
Spooge dripping out of silencer to pipe joint.

This is what I've lately.
All new bearings, rod, seals on bottom.
New top end, honed cylinder, cleaned pv completely.
Went thru the Carb, cleaned real good put new jets, set float (which I seem to have trouble with on the pwks for some reason. It never seems right. But it does not leak out over flow either.

Current jetting. 40 PJ, 155 mj, floats at 16mm, 1174 needle at 3rd clip. #5 slide. As1.5 out. B7es plug.
I'm at loss on this now.....also timing mark is set at most CCW mark or the furthest to the left. Is this advanced or retarded? Please throw suggestions guys, we got a GP coming up soon. Kid wants to run his new ride. Thanks.

 

[dirt bike dave]

Have never had an H model, but if it were mine I would turn the air screw out another 1/2 turn and raise the clip one more groove on the needle and see how it works. Get it nice and warm, and it if still is too rich down low I would consider a 38 pilot.

 

[argclh6670]

hey dave, my AS was telling i was too big on pj..3.5 turns out. put in a 38 and dropped needle 1 position.

it is better now but its still lacking that low tractor grunt. it feels to me like a relaxed 125 2t. but it goes good on top.

getting frustrated, cause now with 38 pj it'll bog when i snap throttle with AS out more than 3/4 turn. :yell:

 

[dirt bike dave]

Sounds like your timing is all the way retarded. You could leave the timing where it is and maybe drop 1 tooth on your countershaft, or try returning the timing to the middle of the adjustment range.

Cut and pasted the below from an article on the web:

AFFECTS OF THE IGNITION TIMING

Here is how changes in the static ignition timing affects the power band of a Japanese dirt bike. Advancing the timing will make the power band hit harder in the mid range but fall flat on top end. Advancing the timing gives the flame front in the combustion chamber, adequate time to travel across the chamber to form a great pressure rise. The rapid pressure rise contributes to a power band's "Hit". In some cases the pressure rise can be so great that it causes an audible pinging noise from the engine. As the engine rpm increases, the pressure in the cylinder becomes so great that pumping losses occur to the piston. That is why engines with too much spark advance or too high of a compression ratio, run flat at high rpm.

Retarding the timing will make the power band smoother in the mid-range and give more top end over rev. When the spark fires closer to TDC, the pressure rise in the cylinder isn't as great. The emphasis is on gaining more degrees of retard at high rpm. This causes a shift of the heat from the cylinder to the pipe. This can prevent the piston from melting at high rpm, but the biggest benefit is how the heat affects the tuning in the pipe. When the temperature rises, the velocity of the waves in the pipe increases. At high rpm this can cause a closer synchronization between the returning compression wave and the piston speed. This effectively extends the rpm peak of the pipe.

HOW TO ADJUST THE TIMING

Rotating the stator plate relative to the crankcases changes the timing. Most manufacturers stamp the stator plate with three marks, near the plate's mounting holes. The center mark is the standard timing. If you loosen the plate mounting bolts and rotate the stator plate clockwise to the flywheel's rotation, that will advance the ignition timing. If you rotate the stator plate counterclockwise to the flywheel's rotation, that will retard the ignition timing. Never rotate the stator plate more than .028in/.7mm past the original standard timing mark. Kawasaki and Yamaha stator plates are marked. Honda stators have a sheet metal plate riveted to one of the mount holes. This plate insures that the stator can only be installed in one position. If you want to adjust the ignition timing on a Honda CR, you'll have to file the sheet metal plate, with a 1/4in rat-tail file.

 

[argclh6670]

good write up on timing affects...thank you.

also, not sure if all the KIPS system are alike but the right side rod that is horizontal (oring side) has considerable more drag than other side. left side slides very easily. i took everything apart again cleaned it up again even ran a drill bit in port by hand to see if any carbon would come out. none. lubed it back up reinstalled but it still has the same amount of drag. im thinking this is the source of problem. but these kdx;s are my first ones ive owned so im not totally up to speed on everything about them.

I will move timing mark baCK TO MID POSITION AND SEE WHAT THAT DOES.

 

[argclh6670]

Took it out today, watched n listened as the kid rode. Sounds lean down low gunna go back to the 40 PJ, rips good on pipe but loads up bad when just putting around. Lots of Spooge on swingarm, fair amount at silencer. Also, seeing evidence of either the cylinder not completely sealing at base under reed area and or the cases. Not sure.

Maybe reeds? or jet block gasket?

 

[BSWIFT]

One of the most important things to remember when tuning is only making one change at a time. Jetting is time consumeing but not that difficult if you remain patient. If you get a little lean during the tuning, don't fret it. I would also recommend that you get the timing more to the center of the adjustments, if you are off too much your jetting changes will be off as well.
There are bunches of threads concerning the KIPS in this forum and it would pay off to read as many as possible. The good part of working thru these issues is you will really understand the jetting when you are done AND you will likely never have to do it again. Use fresh, properly mixed fuel and a new plug for every change you make. Make sure your air filter is clean and work from the pilot jet to the main methodically. Spanky's Jetting guide is pinned at the top of the Two Stroke Forum, print it out and follow it dillegently and you will sort it out.
I had an 89 that the timing was off from the factory. The engine had two hits. The first hit was the timing advance and the second was the KIPS opening up. The bike hurt every single person that rode it. It was uncontrollable. Once the timing was set properly to coincide with the KIPS opening, the bike was awsome.

 

[argclh6670]

I'm just gunna order one up, at least I'll be able to rule that out once replaced.

Also, I didn't get much input on another question I had. So i figured I'd ask again.
On the pv, the rt side rod (oring). Does not slide as effortlessly as the non oring side. Have pulled it apart a couple times concentrating on that area while cleaning it. I can actuate pv by hand/pliers and release, governor spring has alot of tension but does not return pv to fully closed position. Would this cause it to run rich?

 

[BSWIFT]

I would not think that would cause a rich condition but definitely would make things hard to tune. Hopefully one of the KDX gurus will pipe in and give you some advice on the KIPS. It's been too long since I have messed with a KIPS.

 

[argclh6670]

well guys, the saga continues! there is absolutely NO bottom end on the bike, i have to clutch the hell out of and get on the pipe to make it come alive.

Video link at the bottom.

here is the skinny on the to now.
okay, its a 95 kdx200.
0-1000 elev. 40-58 temp. typical PNW rainy weather.
has PC pipe fmf silencer, air box lid removed.

stock jetting is mj 158, pj 42, 1174k on 3rd position, #5 slide.
current jetting is mj 155, pj 38, 1174k on 2nd, #5 slide
New jet needle (the thing that has the Viton tip)
New jet block gasket, set float, then double chk to make sure.

mixture is 92 octane, full syn 32:1

new bearings and seals, rebuilt crank on lower
new top end, pv diassembled and cleaned completly.

running issue is:
loading up very bad down low, LOTS of spooge at pipe to silencer joint (puddle on floor). Absolutly NO bottom end. runs the same cold as does when warmed.
At 1/8 or so throttle it blubbers, sputters and pukes lots of smoke.
Seems to run alright when on the pipe though.

I know im not riding the bike in the video, but the bike does exactly the same deal when riding. especially when going from no throttle to rolling back on.
If i clutch the hell out of it and get to the pipe its okay, but thats not always do able in the woods. any and all suggestions are appreciated. thanks in advance.

it shouldnt be running any type of rich with my current jetting.
but then again, im alittle frustrated and may not be catching something.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5phqCznLyx4

 

[dirt bike dave]

Can't watch the video at work, but by the description it sounds like the KIPS valve is stuck open.

 

[argclh6670]

Hey dbd, was just checking the kips, its not closing all the way. Would this be causing it to run THIS rich? We're talking bout 1/4 to 3/8 open. I've cleaned and cleaned scraped but I can't figure why the dang thing won't return all the way back. Any tips?

 

[mudpack]

KIPS will not affect air/fuel mixture, it only changes port timing.

I can't view the vid, either, but it sounds like you might have an overly lean condition caused by an air leak in the intake system. Use the old carb cleaner check to find out.
Float level too low can also give these symptoms.