97 CR80 Rear Hub Worn - Suggestions?

rikhek

Member
Nov 3, 2004
67
0
The rear hub on my son's CR80 is worn on the left side where the bearing seats. It's a 14" wheel. Thought it was just a worn bearing but when I went to replace it the old one it came out with very little effort. I was then able to "seat" a new bearing by basically pushing it in with my fingers.

The bearing seat in the hub is out of tolerence. It's still "round" and not washed out, however, even with the new bearings in and the wheel mounted I get side-to-side play. Not a whole bunch but more than I deem acceptable.

I hate thinking of spending $100 - $200 for a used wheel on a bike that is worth around $900. The right side of the hub and the rest of the wheel is in good shape. The worn seat on the left side is physically smaller than the right side and I figure this is why this seat wore quicker than the left. The left bearing seats fine, nice and tight.

Is there any way to get the seat repaired? I was wondering if a machine shop could build it up and then machine it back down to spec size to do away with the "loose" fit of the bearing.

I've been out of work for over a year and really don't look forward to spending much on the bike, however, the boy really enjoys riding. I'm hesitant to let him ride it the way it is as I'm afraid it's going to make all the other components wear as a result (i.e., axle, swingarm, rotor, sprockets, caliper, chain, etc.). If it throws a chain it could destroy the cases.

Your thoughts on a way to "rebuild" the bearing seat would be appreciated or should I bite the bullet and spend 20% of the bike's value on a complete wheel. I been looking and found that used 14" rear wheels are hard to come by.

It should mention, the amount of "play" is not really extreme, feels like worn bearings with just a little play. What are your thoughts on running it like it is? When I replace the left bearing I gets substantially better but the bearing wears loose after 5 - 6 hours due to the play in the seat. I could just keep replacing the bearing every 5 - 6 hours as they are only about $4.00.Hate to compound the problem. The bike is only ridden on an "easy" track with no jumps but it is pretty rough.

Rick
 

reelrazor

Member
Jun 22, 2004
340
0
Having a machine shop weld it then machine it back to spec may prove as costly as a new hub.

Here's an idea though, assuming you DO have a decent general service machine shop near you. You can likely have the bearing seat knurled. Similar to knurling valve guides, you will create valleys in the material but you will also bring enough up past the current surface to make the bearing an interference fit like it should be.

It is not the best fix possible but you may find that it works well.
 

rikhek

Member
Nov 3, 2004
67
0
Spoke to a machinist today and he said it would be difficult and costly to weld and machine back to spec. He suggested trying some high strength lock-tite between the outer race and the hub. Said I should heat it up a bit with a torch and then put the lock-tite on as the heat helps the lock-tite set up. I have just enough play around the race to where the lock-tite would "get in." Any thoughts?

As a last resort I thought I might just JB Weld some new OEM Honda bearings in. Figure if I'm going to end up trashing the hub it is worth a try. My thoughts are the OEM bearings could last a long time based on the type usage it sees.....

Rick
 

darringer

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Dec 2, 2001
1,029
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rikhek, I used jb weld type epoxy on a rear hub on my 250 2-3 years ago and it worked very well. Did exactly what you said... New bearing, heated the hub to enlarge it a bit, put a little epoxy in the hub to build it up, force new bearing in, let cure. It worked very well. Also note that after the bearing has been in for awhile that you can use a seal pick to remove the rubber seal from the bearing and re-grease it while it's still epoxied in the hub, making it last indefinitely. I never had any trouble with the hub afterwards.
 

rikhek

Member
Nov 3, 2004
67
0
darringer, I think I might just go with the JB Weld as I really don't think the lock-tite will do the job. Although, I won't hurt to at least try the lock-tite and if it doesn't hold go with the JB Weld. Anyone else have an opinion?

Rick
 

rikhek

Member
Nov 3, 2004
67
0
Been watching for some time but they go for 15% - 20% (i.e., $150 - $200) of what the bike is worth...

Rick
 
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