A Few Basic Questions

[Chief]

Hi All.

I have 2 questions.

1: Because of how my shocks are positioned (rotation-wise) in the clamps, I have to take my handlebars off to get at the air bleed screws. I don't want to rotate the forks right now. Can I simply loosen the fork caps a bit to give me easy access to the bleeder screws? I would only need 1/4 turn or less ccw to get easy access. After bleeding them I would re-tighten the caps.

2: In my manual, higher level = less oil. Are they measuring dry space or the actual level, or the level with the fork inverted. (as you can tell, I have no clue yet when it comes to forks)

3: (ok, I lied) can I reduce my oil level within manual spec for a softer ride by removing the caps? ---what I'm getting at is with a thin enough hose and proper measuring. From the looks of the manual, I could reduce the level with the forks still on the bike, but would have to also remove the spring and damper rod. Is this an easy procedure?

I am planing to send out my forks this winter, but would really like to get some relief until then. The bike is so skittish on small bumps and rocks (especially at lower speeds) that I can barely stand it anymore.

Any Replies Greatly Appreciated. 01 RM 250 stock. Sincerely,

Joe Chief

 

[minutz]

Sorry, but your idea for a quick fix on "that" bike is not going to work. Having had one,that no one could hang on to for very long the only solution we found was a revalve by MX-tech.

 

[endosports]

Originally posted by Chief
Hi All.

3: (ok, I lied) can I reduce my oil level within manual spec for a softer ride by removing the caps? ---what I'm getting at is with a thin enough hose and proper measuring. From the looks of the manual, I could reduce the level with the forks still on the bike, but would have to also remove the spring and damper rod. Is this an easy procedure?

I

The oil level is setting is not going to make your ride any smoother. The level is for the last 1/3 of your forks' stroke. This is mainly to prevent bottoming.

 

[bclapham]

you can some similar discussion here:

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=55533

i went through similar issues with oil levels, i think i good way of starting is go with a low oil level (high number of mm from the top of the fork) and if you bottom add 10 cc of oil at a time, until you only bottom slightly on the biggest junp of the track. (10 cc equates to about 10 mm given the internals etc. from my calculations).

as far as the bleed screws, i would loosen the triple clamps and rotate the fork since this will take the stresses of the fork (it has to be done once in a while anyway). this could also be an oportunity to raise or lower the fork which may help the steering or handling issues you have.

disclaimer: i am by no means an expert on these issues, but i am trying to learn and understand, so if i need to be corrected then please do!

 

[marcusgunby]

1 seems alot of effort-why not just rotate the forks in the clamps?
2The level is the airgap with the springs out and the forks collapsed but also with the gap between the inner and outer chamber full of oil-once the fork is fully extended the level will be upto 40mm different.
3 you can lower the level that way but often its harder than taking them off.

 

[Chief]

Thank You for all the replies. I guess the best thing would be to rotate the forks as far as the bleed screws go.

I'm not going to mess with the oil level(s).

Bike really seems to handle best with the rebound set hardest and compression set at the softest, so I will keep it at that until I send them out for a re-valve.

I will hopefully get the results I need with the re-valve. Does Jeremy do the work, or does DRN generally just recommend MX-TECH? I've heard good things about re-valving by the right person/company.

It sucks riding under these conditions when I know how much better is possible. In other words, I know I can get the ride I want, but will still wait for the slow season before I put the bike up for some annual maintenence. Maybe just after Christmas :)

Sincerely,

Chief

 

[marcusgunby]

I can understand the comp needing to be set to the softest posiition but the rebound on full hard is a reason to be concerned.

 

[Chief]

marcusgunby,

These settings have given me the best ride yet. I tried it on advice. Logic being the firmer rebound will cause the shocks to ride up high in a softer position. It really did help a lot, but maybe I could do a little better.

Softening it up a few clicks on rebound may help some, and I will try it.

Just to get me through the rest of the season.

Thanks Sincerely,

Chief

 

[Eggnchips]

I'm no expert, but surely riding with the rebound at max would make the forks run lower in the stroke as the wheel would not get a chance to properly extend.

I would set both clickers to stock or exactly in the midde and then take it from there

 

[marcusgunby]

Chief i was wondering if someone had removed the fork caps and refitted them incorrectly.If the nut that sits over the spring guide wasnt fully down on the thread-it wont allow the caps to push the rebound rod far enough.

Like egg and chips said-with the rebound maxed out , it will ride lower in the stroke(assuming the rebound adjuster is actually making the damping full stiff)

 

[Chief]

marcusgunby & Eggnchips,

You are right, my logic is incorrect. Setting the rebound damper to a firmer setting would cause the fork to ride more mid section and less beginning of stroke :o (read manual and understand basics hopefully)

marcus, no one had the caps off. I bought it new this way. I guess the guys at the factory should read the manual as it specifies positioning the forks with the bleed screws facing forward.

Thanks. I have to go be alone now :think:

 

[Chief]

Yesterday I set the fork rebound damping from 4 to 8 clicks out. Also set the rear rebound damping from full hard (in all the way) to 5 clicks out. The bike felt better, quite a bit better. Shock compression settings are in all the way (high and low speed) I plan on keeping them this way since the front still sinks a lot less than the back when I push on the footpeg (balance from front to back is off)

Since it took awhile to figure out the jetting and engine tuning, I rarely have problems getting it to run the way I want it to.

Now it's time to start experimenting with the clickers more. I am keeping notes of what I am doing and how it affects the ride.

Thanks Again.

Joe Chief