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"Advanced" Digital SLR Questions for Shooting MX
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[QUOTE="Tony Eeds, post: 937771, member: 32023"] Lou: First thinks first ... good job and you have balls for tossing them out for others to critique. I haven't as yet. My take ... and I look forward to JPIVEY's comments as well. 1. Depth of Field: Yes the larger the aperture (smaller number) the less the depth of field. F64 was the name of a group of photographers in the 30's headed up by Ansel Adams. The depth of field was (and remains) phenomenal in their work. They had little or no movement in their photos though, so shutter time was not an issue. Aperture and shutter speed work in reverse tandem as plykins mentioned. 2. Lens: Glass is the most important “quality” element of a lens. Fixed lens generally have far better optics than zoom or adjustable length lens as it is easier to design a fixed lens system to compensate for aberrations in the lens elements. Zoom lens are a compromise at best and are designed to provide acceptable quality throughout the entire zoom range, but are often balanced for the middle point of the zoom range. In the case of your 70~200 that would be around 130 mm or so. Price is not always an indicator of quality, but in the case of lens I would have to say that it is. Cheaper lens make more compromises than higher priced lens. Prime lens (those by the camera manufacturer) are often many times more expensive than after market lens like Sigma and Vivitar. Not to say after market quality isn’t good, because it can be. With the advent of the computer many of the after market lens gained significantly on prime lens. I admit to not knowing a great deal about either of these specific lens. The other factor affecting lens quality is the speed or F stop of the lens. The lower the F stop, the greater the light gathering ability, but with that ability comes increased aberrations because the centerpoint of the lens is the optimal focus point and images degrade as they use larger percentages of the optics. As you mentioned though, lower F stops allow for slower shutter speeds though, which can help in many situations. 3. Auto vs. Manual: Simply stated, you have significantly more control in manual mode than you do in auto modes as the computer is mapped (if you will) to produce certain results and they are always going to be based upon compromises. 4. I have used the Portrait mode very little, although I will get VERY familiar at an upcoming wedding ... 5. Filters: Yes, two filters will affect the photo quality more than one filter, but the UV is the first thing I put on a lens when I purchase it and I never remove it as it protects the outer coating. I would never swap them and have never been disappointed by having both except on extreme wide angle lens where the filters clip the corners of the photo area. 6. Lens Hoods: They can be beneficial when shooting towards the sun. The shorter the lens (in mm) the larger the angle of conflict (does that make sense?). Wide angles are far more problematic than telephotos. If you can get the lens to be in a shadow (tree, human, hat ... whatever) it serves the same function as a hood. 7. Many old time film cameras suffered the issue of not being able to have a burst mode. Knowing when to take the “single best shot” is still the best method, although burst mode has helped greatly in capturing the moment. Full manual makes anticipation of the action paramount. 8. Lens Length: The 200 mm you mention will give you a more shallow depth of field than a smaller mm lens. That being said, I shot the Big Bend Open Road Race with my 300 mm and 50~60% of my shots were in perfect focus because I picked a spot on the track and set the focus and took the shot when the car hit that spot. Mind you the cars were approaching me at anywhere from 100 to 150 miles per hour. In this case I allowed the camera to pick the optimal shutter speed / aperture combination for the lighting level as there were clouds streaming over all day taking us from full sun to full shade and back almost at the snap of the finger. 9. IOS ... aka ASA to us old farts: The lower the number the tighter the grain when talking about film. In the case of digital photography this still somewhat applies. The lower the number the less the noise in the photo file. By this I mean things that will show up when a photo is blown up to the upper reaches of it potential size. File sizes have theoretical maximum sizes that can be acceptably printed without the majority of people finding the result objectionable. Is that clear as mud? For example a large fine shot at 200 ISO will have less noise than the same shot if you use 1600 ISO. Noise is the dots, fuzziness, etc. that you see when you print a shot. Your camera manual has the theoretical maximum sizes for the various photo settings that correlates with your megapixel range. One thing you have not mentioned is RAW instead of JPEG format. Does the Rebel allow you to shoot RAW photos? If so, you will be able to do much more in Photoshop if you use RAW format. Now mind you, it will not make up for out of focus or percent of overall image issues, but you might consider that, if the Rebel will make the files. [/QUOTE]
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