Air filter box and oil also what ratio premix

[ksnowdog]

Hello everyone,
I did a search and didn't come up with much info. I have a couple questions regarding the airbox and filter.
I have seen posts regarding drilling holes in the lid ??? I do quite a bit of river crossings (up to the pegs). Would water get in? Would I need to change the jetting? Is it worth it?
Also regarding cleaning and oil. As far as I know I have the stock filter on the KDX200, I have just been taking it out and soaking it in hot water with dishsoap. Seems to get all the previous oil and dirt out. Then dry, followed with using motor oil (10/40) to lube, and sqeezing out all the excess oil. Are the specific filter oils any better??
And lastly, what ratio of premix does everyone use? I have been using Bel-ray full synthetic (expensive) at 38:1. The previous owner used Kaw racing at 32:1. I've had people recommend to go to 50:1 with the full synthetic. 50:1 makes me a little nervous, I'd rather have a little too much than not enough. I do have quite a bit of spit out oil on my back and rear fender after riding. Is that because I'm too rich on my pre-mix?
sorry for all the question
thanks in advance

 

[bhiner]

You can safely remove the airbox lid and gain considerable performance.
As for river crosing... unless you are up to your seat, no worries.
As for re-jetting I didn't have to.
NOW ABOUT FILTER OIL... Motor oil is a poor substitute and is flamable(personal experince- torched an rm125 when I backfired)
The best investment you will make for your bike will be a good quality filter, filter oil, and cleaner. No-toil is my favorite.
I use Mobile One 2-cycle full synthetic 40:1. This should cut down on the splooge(spill-out) and give you plenty of protection. 50:1...Scares Me.

 

[Tom Ludolff]

I don't understand why people drill the airbox lid. Just remove it!!! If there is an electrical box bolted to the lid, you just cable tie it to the frame. Replace the stock filter with a UNI filter or something that breathes better. The stock filters are very dense. I did have to go a step richer on my jetting because I was getting a slight hesitation. Filter oils are stickier and stay put better than motor oil. I've heard motor oils tend to ooze down to the bottom of the filter. I just use dish detergent and warm water to clean it. I used to use gasoline (works great!!) and dump it in my driveway, but it's not environmentally correct.

 

[ksnowdog]

Thanks for the replies so far.

I pulled the air filter tonight and cleaned with good 'ol soapy water, I'll pick up some filter oil tomorrow on the way to the woods :thumb:
When I got the seat off, I realized the lid is already drilled (never noticed before). There are 5 holes about an inch in diameter, so I guess you can ignore the airbox questions!

I also need to do a compression test. I fear I may need a new top end this winter (along with a full carb cleaning, check jets and new reed and pipe). What reading should I get on a compression test??

Once again, thanks in advance

 

[canyncarvr]

As already mentioned, if you're going to drown your bike via holes drilled in the airbox lid, you're likely going to drown it without the holes. Doan worry 'bout it.

'Good 'ol soapy water' isn't going to work with a decent filter oil (which you should be using...NOT motor oil). I second the 'notoil' comment. Their filter oil is a sticky mess (that's a good thing)...and you're NOT going to get your filter clean with that 'good old soapy water'. Notoil's filter cleaner makes the whole cleaning process a 90 second deal! That's if you're pretty slow about it! Simple.

Heck..you can wash the thing in your clothes washer if you wanna. After your wife finds out, you may wish you had used the sink, though.....;)

re: why drill the lid?

Cuz removing the whole thing allows unwanted detritus inside...and the noise is IRRITATING!! An IMO of course. Some riders like the 'dead duck quacking' noise. I don't!

Do you have to rejet? That's a question of concern. If you have NOT changed the jetting on your bike, you're missing out on the biggest performance BANG for practically no $$. If your jetting is spot on, and THEN you remove your airbox cover OR drill holes in it, you had better rejet, cuz you'll stick it.

If you didn't find info (THANKS for looking, though!) concerning airbox lid mods, I gather you haven't been to CDave's site? You should take a gander...@:

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net

You'll find xlnt starting point jetting info there, too. Lots of just plain 'ol great stuff on CDave's site.

re: compression testing

Too many variables to give you a specific number. Guages, methods leave too much to chance. Where it will help you the most is using it as a 'relative' comparison method. If you have numbers from YOUR bike, taken by YOU one week after your last rebuild...then you can realistically compare that figure to what you have now.

That said...on a warm engine, several kicks @ WOT---120# is on the low side. 140-160# is closer to 'normal'. If you have a couple years on your bike, and you ride it much at all...it's time for a topend. It's more a maintenance issue than 'fix it cuz it's broke' issue.

re: premix.

Maxim lists premix ratio recs for different bikes:

http://www.maximausa.com/

'Size matters' is what it comes down to. The bigger the bike, the more oil is required (for one thing). 40:1 is safe for a 200.

re: spooge ('spit out oil')

You don't fix that by changing your premix ratio (ex: 40:1 to 50:1). That's making the situation WORSE...cuz you're going RICHER on the air/fuel ratio. Spooge isn't an oil issue, it's a jetting issue.

You're on the way to finding all sorts of power you didn't even know your 'lil kawi had.

Have fun!!

 

[srhill]

If you use the No-toil on the stock filter you will need to clean it religiously. (you need to do that anyway). Due to the density of the stock foam filter and the stickyness of the No-toil, it may leave leave your Kawi gasping for breath. :scream:

 

[Lew]

Scrap the stock filter. No-Toil, and Uni make good filters that breathe and will not cost you an arm -N- leg.

 

[canyncarvr]

re: As srhill says. If you are changing type (or even brands) of oil, it's got to be cleaner than it might be normally. Especially true with notoil.

It would be interesting to take one of your cleaned with 'good 'ol soapy water' and run it through a paint/lacquer thinner bath. Actually, lacquer thinner might be a bit severe. An excellent solvent..also highly volitile, not kind to skin and somewhat aromatic. Might not be kind to adhesives, either (what holds your filter together).

It evaporates fast when you dump it in your driveway, though!! ;)

 

[ksnowdog]

Well.......I thought I WAS on the CDave's site :think: So I guess I did the search on the wrong site. Thanks for the link, looks like a lot of great info there (haven't had a chance to really dig into it).

For all I know I already have an aftermarket filter on it (since the prev. owner went to the trouble to drill the lid). I'm gonna pick up a new filter this week, as an extra at a minumum. I bought some of the PJ1 cleaner and filter oil this am (out of stock on the no-toil), good and sticky :thumb:

By canyncarvr's post, I assume my jetting is off.

I don't have a point of reference for the compression and actually haven't even had a chance to pick up a gauge yet either. Once the weather gets REAL cold, I plan to rebuild the top anyway, carb (jets, reed) and put a pipe on it. Looks like an on-going dispute over Prociruit or FMF :scream: . I may go with the PC due to all the posts regarding FMF fitting probs. Does PC have different models for a 95 like the FMF pipes?? I would like MORE on the topend, but not at the expense of killing my low end woods torque.

I'm sorry, I'm sure the answers are on the Cdave website, but if someone knows off the top of their head......
Is the topend rebuild very difficult for someone with faily decent mechanical skills/tools? I'm hoping there is good topend tips on the CDave site (I do have a service manual). And is there also jet recommendations with the exhaust mods in mind?

"You're on the way to finding all sorts of power you didn't even know your 'lil kawi had." BRING IT ON :aj:

 

[canyncarvr]

1. Topend won't give you any problems. Something to keep in mind; you can't get to the cylinder nuts with a regular socket wrench. If you have an SAE rated elbow, that's fine....but if you need a torque wrench to keep things correct....or (wisely) just choose to use one, you'll need the special tool from motion-pro that has box ends AND a square drive hole in the middle of the handle. It allows you to attach the tool to your torque wrench and use the box ends to reach your cylinder stud nuts.

There are mathematical formulas for figuring the differing torque results as you change the length of the combo, but if you keep the motion-pro tool at 90º to the torque wrench, you can use the torque values AS SET on the wrench. No math required! ;)

2. Recommendations...exhaust mods in mind. Yes. On CDave's site.

Take a look at the archived RB carb thread:

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19686

A LOT of excellent jetting info. Things you need to know if you're going to jet your bike, like...what's the magic number? For future reference, if you want JD's jetting guide but don't know how to get it...ask!

It's a safe assumption that EVERYone's jetting is off. It doesn't have to be a great big pain, but the fact of the matter is your bike will run MUCH better if it's correctly jetted than otherwise. That takes some effort. Effort in learning what it is you're doing and why..and the actual doing.

One more BTW...get some allen head stainless screws for your carb fuel bowl, and a ball end allen wrench to fit 'em. Use some anti-seize compound on the screws. Don't be surprised if it takes a hacksaw (to cut yourself a slot in a mangled screwhead) or maybe a pair of good vise-grips to get the fuel bowl off in the first place.

3, or 4. or whatever it is..... I think PC makes only one pipe for the kdx. That's part of what makes FmF so popular...you can CHOOSE what pipe profile you want to not fit!

Have fun!!