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Any idea to take apart forks?
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[QUOTE="KiwiBird, post: 94569, member: 17232"] This was posted by Jeremy earlier - although you forks differ slightly the instructions will cover your forks with only minor tool differences. These instructions also cover the shock. Instructions for 4616 KYB shock rebuild and valve installation: Disassemble shock completely: Remove spring: -Spring removal can occur by loosening the preload washers on the shock body buy using a soft drift to loosen the lock spanner and then hand turning the preloading ring. For speed and ease we recommend that a spring compressor be used. -After spring removal inspect shock for leaks and wear. -Prepare the shock for easy cleaning and rebuilding by reducing compression and rebound damping to full soft. -Using a large radiuses punch remove the seal cap by driving it off the body gently. Tap from both sides to ease the strain. -Remove the nitrogen charge. -Using a seal head driver depress the seal head and expose the circlip -Using an appropriate circlip remover remove the circlip. -Remove the compression rod by gently rocking the assembly out of the body, and dump the oil in the piston side of the body. -Using a bladder driver press the bladder into the body far enough to expose the circlip. –Remove the circlip and remove the bladder using a removal tool. Dump the oil in the reservoir side of the body. Shocks without high and low speed range adjustment. -Using a 7/64 drill into the peens that are centered on the adjusters OD. (The peens crush the first few threads into the body and will gall the adjuster and body during removal.) The depth; should be about 2 threads into the body. Any farther and the o-ring can be penetrated. Conversely if too little is removed the peens will not be removed, and damage will result in disassembly. -After removal take a moment and debur all drilled edges. Shocks with high and low adjustment. -High and low range adjusters can be removed without drilling the peens. Simply use the appropriate remover available from Scott’s performance. -After the adjuster unthreads, the cap will come out but the actual valve will remain in the body tube. Firmly grasp the end of the adjustment jet or stem flats and rock the valve out. Don’t twist or slip with the pliers, as it will distort the jet. -The body will have peen marks in the mouth of the adjuster; these bumps must be removed with a subtitle tool. (We use a porting tool equipped with a sanding cloth) The goal is to remove the high spot only. If you go past the normal angle the o-ring will squeeze out during reassembly. -The washer that serves, as the high-speed tensioner should be placed flat side towards the valving and curved side towards the spring during reassembly. Internal component disassembly: Valving. -All KYB Shocks have a nut that is stamped on the top edge. You must remove this stamp to safely remove the nut. -All KYB shocks can be ground off flat excluding some early model CR/’s with out common bleed. These shocks had a 44mm body, and can be identified by the brass plug at the top of the shock shaft. -Prior to grinding the rod take a moment to plug the end of the rod with a dab of grease to prevent chaff from entering the needle valve. -When grinding the nut off the end of the rod take time to make sure you have setup a suitable holding method that will prevent the nut from chattering on the wheel. Strive to produce a flat, square and attractive finish using precise placement and rotations of the shaft. Cover the seal head with a cloth to prevent chaff from entering the seal head. -Grind down to the nut face; after the wheel has made light contact to the nut face you should be able to remove it. Lightly unthread the nut if you begin to experience resistance tighten the nut back down and continue grinding a small portion more. -Using a debur-polishing wheel finish the nut face and edges. -Using a valivng skewer unthread the nut and valving and place on a skewer for washing and inspection. -Radius the nut face as if it was the first thread. After radiusing the first thread debur the internal orifice using a deburing tool. Blow the grease and chaff out using a blast of compressed air. -Wash your valving out using solvent and compressed air. Lay the valve stacks out in order on a clean surface. I recommend that you write the dimensions down of each washer and its order so if mix something up you can restore it to original spec. Inspection of parts: -Clean all components in clean solvent and then dry with compressed air. Lay all parts out on a very clean surface in good light. We recommend SafetyKleen brand solvents as they will not harm components, and provide excellent cleaning. -Check the piston bore of the shock body for wear by measuring or visually using reflection angle check for low spots, wear, etc. If the body has a wear issue with the hardcoatoing you will see discoloration where the piston has worn through. -Check the piston band by placing it back on the shaft with a nut and sliding it into the body. The band should compress and provide a significant stiction to the body wall. If it is lose, or moves too freely then the band and o-ring should be replaced. Simply slice the old band off and install new o-ring and band. -Check the bump rubber for cracks, or disintegration -Check shaft for chrome wear or imperfections. -Check seal head for bushing wear, or scoring. -Check bladder for wear, stresses, or imperfections. -Check piston for any metal chips pressed into valve face. Using a scotch bright pad polish the face lightly but don’t surface. Most 46KYB pistons are slightly dished to promote seal. When the piston is surfaced this dish is removed and the shock will not perform exactly as it used to. -Replace any components that are worn. Assembly of the Active compression and rebound valving. -Install the spring retainer, bump rubber, bottom out plate, using a seal bullet, and install a well-greased seal head. -Install the valving components on the shaft stem add a drop of blue loctite to the threads. Tighten the nut down firmly but do not over or under tighten. If you’re revalving build the necessary components and stacks. -Place the compression aside for a moment. Installing internal components: -Place the body tube upside down in a soft-jawed vise. Lightly grease the threads to help prevent any galling during assembly. Grease the threads and o-rings of the adjuster. Turn the adjuster into the body. Once the o-ring has cleared the body tube pour oil into the reservoir side of the body tube to initiate flow through the compression adjuster. Taping on the top of the reservoir with a cupped hand will cause enough pressure to force oil into the body side of the shock. Once you have fluid on the body side lightly tighten the compression adjuster into the body. This rotation will help eliminate air from the body of the adjuster. -After the adjuster has seated pour more oil into the bladder side of the body. Rotate the body as it goes into the body, Oil should spill out over all edges to prevent any air being caught in a pocket.. Place the bladder into position, (With reference to the Schrader position.) install the circlip. -Charge bladder quickly to 100 PSI or so, then remove 30% of the charge, by holding the Schrader down a second. -Place your assembled rod into the tube and run it through the travel until you have a minimum amount of air in the circuits and valving. (Some recommend hitting the clevis with a soft mallet but for KYB shocks we typically don’t do this.) When bleeding don’t pull to quickly on return as you will create a vacuum behind the piston. Also keep the fluid level up in the body tube to prevent the rebound ports to go above the fluid level. -Once the shock piston has been bleed place the rod near the top of the shock. Add fluid and release the air simutaionsouly. Keep the fluid above the rebound ports, and continue releasing air until you have no charge on the shock bladder. Pull the rod back up to the highest point possible without going above the oil line. Top off with fluid and install the seal head. Release pressure on the bladder as it fills the body with excess oil. -Install the circlip and bottom out plate. Make sure the plate removal holes are 90 from center so to make them easy to access when servicing shock again. Install using a soft mallet. (We recommend a plastic mallet..) -Charge the shock with 120PSI of clean air. -Place the shock up right with the lower mount in you vise. Run the shock through full travel 4-5 times. Check for feel, and inspect all seals for leaks. Final bleed for bleed bolt equipped shocks (KX’s RM’s): -Make sure the rod is fully extended. -Tighten compression adjuster to full tight. (Peens should align) -Place the bolt in the position so its internal position is at the highest point. -Reduce all bladder pressure to zero. (If you want it’s best to remove core.. or you can simply hold valve in during bleed, to allow atmospheric pressure to expand bladder to full size.) -Open bleed bolt and let all extra fluid to run out. -Reinstall bolt, and Schrader core. -Charge shock with nitrogen. -Inspect for any leaks. -Install spring and set preload. -Set clickers Final bleed for non-bleed bolt equipped shocks. (YZ’s) -Make sure the rod is fully extended. -Place the compression adjuster in the highest position. -Reduce all bladder pressure to zero. (If you want it’s best to remove core.. or you can simply hold valve in during bleed, to allow atmospheric pressure to expand bladder to full size.) -Open the adjuster and let all extra fluid to run out. -Reinstall adjuster (tighten till peens line up.), and Schrader core. -Charge shock with nitrogen. -Inspect for any leaks. -Install spring and set preload. -Set clickers Instructions for 2832125 valve installation: Disassemble forks completely: Valving components. -Remove fork cap. -Remove bottoming bump components. -Cup -Compression plate -Elastomer (Note 2001 models have Teflon inserts under fork cap.) -Remove spring. -Taking a 14mm Allen socket (Impact style) and a impact wrench remove the base valve assembly. (Apply downward pressure against the fork rod using a clean towel. This insures that the valve is moves outward as apposed to the valve pushing the fork cylinder out.) Use short bursts and not long durations of RPM as this can damage the components. -Remove the fork cylinder. Seal and tube dissembnly: -Using a subtle blade (Flat but small screw driver) remove the dirt scraper. Don’t pry as it may mar the forks appearance. -Using a smaller blade remove the circlip that holds the seal in place. -Heat the seal carrier or the portion of the tube that has a unanodized finish uniformly so as to facilitate easier bushing removal with out damage. -Using quick but not forceful hits drive the tubes apart. (Speed is more important than force and never yank at the end of the stroke.) Use the quick momentum to drive the tube off. Failure to do as described above often results in bushing damage. Internal component disassembly: Fork cylinder: The 3228125 Bumper style fork requires that the stakes at the head of the cartridge be removed before the active and rebound valving can be modified. -Using a 6mm 2 flute end mill, mill the stakes out of the cartridge. The stakes can be identified as 4 dimples at the head of the cartridge or the CV (Cylinder Valve) (It is best to use an end mill because the CV has very thin walls. A drill with sufficient diameter to remove the whole stake will often pierce the CV walls before the edges of the drill have removed the stake.) Mill to 1.8mm depth. It is very important to keep the edge of the mill just bellow the bottom edge of the stake. Failure to do this will result in the last few sealing threads to be pierced and will cause chronic leakage and hence poor fork performance. Be careful to clean all parts thoroughly of AL chips created by the machining. (The chips like to migrate into the CV exit and plug the valving.) -Using the light to moderate heat warm the area around the now milled stakes. This is important to relive tension and locking agents used in assembly from the factory. -Using the CV holder place the components in a vice. -Using a appropriately sized screw driver or round stock turned to the hole diameter, unthread the cylinder form the CV. Uses a back and forth unthreading technique to help prevent thread galling. -The nut holding the valving components has been staked from the factory and needs to be ground flat past the edge of the stake to remove the nut and separate the valving and piston. (Prior to the grinding process pack the orifice with grease to prevent grinding chaff from entering and being lodged in the internals.) -After removing the stake the edge of the nut needs to be radiused of its metal bur that develops during grinding. (This bur may come free during fork use and causes numerous problems.) A polishing wheel such as cratex works very well and leaves an excellent finish. Be very careful to maintain proper shim and piston orientation during removal. Also note that may times small spacer shims are placed under the post spacer, or valve these are easily misplaced and will dramatically impact fork performance. -Now that all the components are free of the stem radius the first thread to prevent thread wear during reassembly. -The passive valving (base-valve, or foot valve) needs to removed. The nut can be just turned off on these model forks. After the nut and valving has been removed you will need to radius the first thread in the same manner as the active stem. Proper orientation must be maintained to insure the components are assembled properly. -Wash and clean all components thoroughly before proceeding any farther. Assembly of fork tubes. -Place the axle bracket in a vise and firmly tighten down. -Placing a bag over the tube lube the seal and install the dirt scraper. (Remember that seals always work with pressure so if orientation becomes unclear use that as your guideline.) Install the circlip, oil seal, backup washer. With round edge toward the seal. Bushing outer and then bushing inner. (After the oil seal is installed remove the plastic bag.) -Use a 46mm seal driver to drive the seals and bushing into the seal carrier. Install the circlip and then install the dirt scrapper. Assembly of the Active compression and rebound damping. -Build the stacks specified and then install them on the stem. By very careful not to misalign any washers or components as they could be permanently damaged by doing so. Double check all components for proper assembly. -Tighten the nut down after a small amount of blue loctite has bee placed on the threads. Make sure that the nut is not lose or over tightened, clean all components with compressed air to blow off any extra loctite. -Put the rod and CV back into the holder and apply a small but uniform amount of blue loctite to the CV threads. (This will serve as both a lubricant and a sealant during reassembly and use.) Tighten the Cylinder down. (Very tight) Assembly of the Passive compression valving. -Install the valving components on the base-valve stem add a drop of blue loctite to the threads. Tighten the nut down firmly but do not over or under tighten. If your revalving build the necessary components and stacks. Installing internal components: -Place and align the fork cylinder in the tube. Grease the base-valve threads and piston o-rings. Using downward force to the rod place the base-valve in the axle bracket and tighten the valve. Once the threads have been engaged use your impact wrench to finish the job. Tighten in firmly, using quick short bursts. Long and high speed rotations are damaging to the components. -Place the fork upright and fill with fluid. Let the fork oil settle into the gaps between the tubes by refilling every few moments or until the level stops falling. At this point thread the fork cap on the rod 1 to 2 turns and lift both the outer and inner tube to full ht allowed by the cap. Quickly compress the fork full travel. That should initiate fork bleeding. Refill the tube and bleed the rod by stroking up and down until the action becomes consistent and smooth. -Set the oil ht by measuring from the fluid level to the edge of the fork tube. -Double check the jam nut tension on the rod. Do this by firmly holding the rod in your hand and tightening the jam nut down as hard as possible. (Do not ever grasp the rod in anything other than a holder.) -Extend the rod completely and lay the fork over to a 45 degree angle. Quickly and precisely slide the spring down over the rod. Place the fork cap and bottoming components on the rod. -Holding the rod with your thumb and index finger tighten the cap down till it seats on the top of the rod. Then insert a thin 17mm and tighten jam nut up to the fork cap. Firmly tighten jam nut to fork cap. -Bottom fork cap to the tube but do not tighten. The top triple clamp is responsible for keeping the cap on. Check for improperly placed rods during rebound clicker setting. Compare the depth of screw in fork cap left and right when rebound is full hard. (This is a quick test.) Reset your clickers and enjoy! [/QUOTE]
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Any idea to take apart forks?
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