anyone using a fastline front brake hose?
- Thread starter Lonewolf
- Start date
roosteater
~SPONSOR~
- Dec 27, 1999
- 216
- 0
Get a Mitivac. You'll never have issues with bleeding brakes again. Worth the $30 or so that they cost.
Lorin
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jun 25, 1999
- 948
- 0
I'll second the mitty vac option. Some of the better money I have spent, and I have used it regularly since then. If you dont have that, another way to help get the air out of the line is to open the bleeder valve and let the brake fluid drain through (gravity fed), and then close the valve and bleed. Some people will actually take and hang the complete brake assembly up, and then do the gravity feed (just make sure that you dont let the resovoir get too low. If the top brake cylinder is left open, most air bubbles will eventually work their way up and out of the top.
Hot4Teacher
Member
- Apr 21, 2002
- 87
- 0
I have one with the Honda routing. I noticed a difference with the Fastline and the Honda routing. If you have the Honda line you need to purchase a clamp that mounts on the fork guard. It runs about $14. The skinny end does mount on top. DPW is right, get a vaccum brake bleeder it will save a whole lotta trouble and time. Harbor Freight carries them for around $25.
Hot4Teacher
Member
- Apr 21, 2002
- 87
- 0
Sorry ROOSTEATER is right.
- Thread starter
- #8
i am going to borrow the vaccum bleeder from work, i work at a texaco station, the bleeder they have is made by a company called phoenix tools i think. the problem i have is i cant get any fluid in the line, the fluid level in the master cyl. isnt going down, is this normal?
- Thread starter
- #9
i still havent had any luck bleeding these brakes. i borrowed the bleeder tool from work and it did nothing. i am not sure if this is concidered a vacuum bleeder or not. this bleeder has a gun with a bottle that holds fluid, then there is a line you connect to the bleeder valve, then you pump fluid up to the master cyl.. i cant get any fluid to go up from the bleeder at all, i had it opened, i connected the tool and tryed to pump the fluid up through but the was too much pressure, i could hardly squeeze the trigger. it eventually went flying off and sprayed fluid everywhere and i gave up. i dont know where to go from here.
Hot4Teacher
Member
- Apr 21, 2002
- 87
- 0
You need to have fluid in the master, hold in the brake lever, have the vaccum bleeder hooked up to the bleeder (make sure it is open), pump the vaccum, make sure you keep fluid in the master so you don't suck in any air. Do this until you get a constant flow of fluid (no air bubbles) into the bleeder container. You should be taking fluid from the master to the bleeder NOT pump fluid up to the master.
- Thread starter
- #11
thanks for responding. i dont think this is a gravity bleeder if am taking fluid from the master cyl. the tool i had did the opposite because i watched them use it on cars at work. a guy on thumper talk told me a way i might try. he said to get a turkey baster and connect it to the bleeder with a vinyl hose, then loosen the bleeder and the upper banjo bolt at the master cyl then pump fluid up through the bleeder to the master cyl, then when fluid starts coming out tighen up the banjo bolt, then bleed the braked like you normally would. im not sure its going to work but ill try. i wish there was somewhere i could buy a gravity bleeder, i dont feel like mail ordering one, im trying to get this bike fixed asap and dont feel like waiting for one to be shipped.
- Nov 25, 1999
- 7,926
- 43
Are you doing this on the bike? If so, try removing the entire brake system. Compress your brake piston with the reservoir cap removed. Put the brake pads in and use three quarters taped together to replicate your rotor. Clamp your reservoir and lever to a work bench and let the caliper hang. Use a short piece of clear tubing to attach to the bleeder bolt that will reach the floor from your caliper.
Place a half filled brake fluid container on the floor with the tube inside the container. Fill your reservoir, loosen the bleeder bolt, and keep the quarters between the brake pads AND the hose submerged in the container on the floor. Bleed your brakes as you would any type. Keep the reservoir full and try not to overflow the container on the floor. Using a wrench, lightly tap the entire length of hose, this is simular to what a Dr. or nurse might do to a hypodermic surynge.
It sounds like you have some debris in the caliper. You may need to remove the bleeder bolt and check for contamenation. If so, clean and start from scratch.
The purpose for doing this off of the bike is by preference rather than any magical reason. It puts the entire system in view and removes the mess of brake fluid on your bike(it will remove paint!).
Place a half filled brake fluid container on the floor with the tube inside the container. Fill your reservoir, loosen the bleeder bolt, and keep the quarters between the brake pads AND the hose submerged in the container on the floor. Bleed your brakes as you would any type. Keep the reservoir full and try not to overflow the container on the floor. Using a wrench, lightly tap the entire length of hose, this is simular to what a Dr. or nurse might do to a hypodermic surynge.
It sounds like you have some debris in the caliper. You may need to remove the bleeder bolt and check for contamenation. If so, clean and start from scratch.
The purpose for doing this off of the bike is by preference rather than any magical reason. It puts the entire system in view and removes the mess of brake fluid on your bike(it will remove paint!).
[/QUOTE] i still havent had any luck bleeding these brakes. [/QUOTE]
I had the same frustrating experience the first time I bled my front brake
on a YZ250: No pressure no matter how much I tried to bleed.
The fluid would not even come out.
After noticing that some bubbles would come to the surface of the (open)
master cylinder when I squizzed the lever, I tried the following:
I tied the brake lever with a rubber band in a semi-open position
and went to watch a movie. Nothing scientific about the lever position.
Just enough that I could see bubbles come out.
By the time the movie was over the air had worked out of the system
on its own. So if you are not in a hurry, you might save the $30 or
so a vacuum pump costs. (I would have been better off buying the pump.
I forgot to return the movies I had rented and ended up paying about
that much in late charges :-)
miko.
I had the same frustrating experience the first time I bled my front brake
on a YZ250: No pressure no matter how much I tried to bleed.
The fluid would not even come out.
After noticing that some bubbles would come to the surface of the (open)
master cylinder when I squizzed the lever, I tried the following:
I tied the brake lever with a rubber band in a semi-open position
and went to watch a movie. Nothing scientific about the lever position.
Just enough that I could see bubbles come out.
By the time the movie was over the air had worked out of the system
on its own. So if you are not in a hurry, you might save the $30 or
so a vacuum pump costs. (I would have been better off buying the pump.
I forgot to return the movies I had rented and ended up paying about
that much in late charges :-)
miko.
See Lonewolf's explanation at the top of the page. Basically, you are forcing the fluid up from the bottom through the bleed valve. It takes a little pressure, but you are assured you are filling the line. I used a squeeze bottle with an 18" piece of 1/8" clear fuel hose. I opened the bleed valve, squeezed the bottle until there was no air in the line, then attachced it to the bleed valve. You may have to get someone to place the brake lever in different positions while you force the fluid in. On my YZ, it worked the easiest with no pressure on the brake lever.
Fluid will spill over the top, and for good measure I still bled the brakes for air bubbles (pump 'em up and open the valve) after I was done. But it was the quickest and easiest I had ever done the job.
Fluid will spill over the top, and for good measure I still bled the brakes for air bubbles (pump 'em up and open the valve) after I was done. But it was the quickest and easiest I had ever done the job.
