wildkdx

Member
Oct 18, 2005
16
0
I picked up a 05 220 street titled.Traded my 03 yz250f for it.This will be my 4th kdx.I just love these bikes.Ive been riding for 36 years and have had many dirt bikes but I keep going back to the kdx.My last was a 03 200 dual sported also.In my opinion the kdx is the best woods bike ever built.I even like the 220 better.Just got her dual sported with the procycle kit,reg.and inspected.Great kit for the money.I may go with the inverted forks mod but really not neccessary since I got them dialed in pretty good with some revalving and heavier springs.So next is a top end.It doesnt need it but Im gonna do it anyway just so I know what I got.Just 1 question.My 220s got a OP stamped in ink on the top of the head.What does this mean if anything.None of my others had this.I will never sell my kdx again.Lesson learned.No wonder they didnt change a thing on these bikes for 10 yrs.They got it right then stopped making them.Makes no sense to me.I will post some pics of my new baby in the pics thread soon.
 

AJ_Payne

Member
Aug 21, 2009
10
0
Do you take your bikes on long road rides or did you just get them plated to jog down the road to the trails? I am looking to do the Trans-America Trail on my KDX next Sept. There are several long open roads and I was just wondering how they do on a long road at a constant speed.
 

wildkdx

Member
Oct 18, 2005
16
0
I dont ride mine more than ten miles on the street to connect trails.These wide open stretches are they dirt or pavement?I wouldnt think of taking mine on the highway.Its very light and geared to low,even dot knobbies are a quite sketchy at higher speeds.For a ride like that I would look towards a big bore 4 stroke.Im not saying it wouldnt make it,cause im sure it would if geared and jetted properly.Being on a screaming 2 stroke for more then ten miles starts to wear on "me" after a while.Just never use down shifting to slow you down from high speeds,use your brakes.Throttle closed+ high rpms= no lube=ugly things happening inside you engine.If you must, chop your throttle often to keep premix flowing. I know 1st hand,thats how I killed the lower end on my 83 husky wr250.Thats why most of the older on-off bikes were oil injected.Keep us posted on the result if you decide to do it.
 

AJ_Payne

Member
Aug 21, 2009
10
0
I will re gear for sure ill probably go up on my front sprocket one tooth. Is it easy for you to keep a constant speed? How fast do you get up to when you do the 10 miles. Ill also get my tires balanced so they won't shake too bad. Ill be doing probably 15 percent pavement, 40 percent dirt roads, and about 45 percent fire roads and trails. I just want to gear the bike where it tops out around 70 so I can run 60 to 65 and not be pinned out.
 

wildkdx

Member
Oct 18, 2005
16
0
I only do around 40mph tops on the street.I use mostly back roads.Keep it in a high gear and keeping a constant speed around 40 isnt a problem.Taller gearing would help for more top speed without screaming the motor.Taller gearing isnt an option for me.I ride 80%tight and twisties,rocks roots,typical notheast terrain.Definatly balance at least the front wheel.Makes a huge difference on the street.
 

AJ_Payne

Member
Aug 21, 2009
10
0
I have a stock front and a 52 rear. I definately need to re-gear. I was thinking about going stock rear and a 14 counter sprocket and packing the stock counter for tight terrain up in the mountains. I think it might work. What kind of reeds are you running or do you have the RAD valve? What kind of header and silencer are you using?
 

wildkdx

Member
Oct 18, 2005
16
0
Boysen reeds,procircuit pipe and spark arrester silecer.Air box lid modified.Stock jetting,needle 2nd from the top.I will be adding a v force 3 reed valve when I do my top end.I had it on my last kdx an 02 200 and it made a big difference after rejetting.I did just fine with stock gearing in the tight a twisties,just a little more clutching.Went to lower gearing just to eliminate the extra clutching. Gettin lazy in my old age.
 

AJ_Payne

Member
Aug 21, 2009
10
0
LOL! I understand. I rode a 125 through the woods with a 52t rear sprocket and I know all about feathering the clutch. What kind of change did the v force reeds make? Did it help more in the low end RPM's, top end RPM's or just all around?
 
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