Best online place to get a Jetting Kit?
- Thread starter jeba6208
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jetsrus is a great place to get individual jets, which is what you need for jetting. Get various sizes and start testing.
For a "jetting kit", JD's jetting kit is a good option if you want to make the job easier. BTW, you probably won't have much success if you're trying to jet it for spooge. You need to jet it for performance. KDX's will always spooge. You probably need to clean out the silencer 1st...
For a "jetting kit", JD's jetting kit is a good option if you want to make the job easier. BTW, you probably won't have much success if you're trying to jet it for spooge. You need to jet it for performance. KDX's will always spooge. You probably need to clean out the silencer 1st...
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- #3
julien_d said:
Won't the jetting help the spooge?...It's spitting out so much from the silencer that the back of my shirts are splattered with oil after just a few miles on the bike...I figured that it needed leaner jets since my thought was that it's getting too much mixture and causing the exhaust gases to be overly wet....Am I off on this reasoning?
No, you are correct. If the jetting is overly rich you could be blowing oil out the back. However, if it is that rich it would probably be fouling plugs as well. Have you checked the condition of the top end? Compression is within spec? Have you cleaned out the silencer? They eventually soak up all the spooge they can and then it starts coming out the back. If it's a stock silencer there should be a drain plug on it.
It is possible to reduce spooging effects with proper jetting, but the bike needs to be in top shape engine wise before even trying to jet it. If it's spooging because the silencer is clogged, or because the top end is in poor condition causing blow by, or the RH crank seal has failed, then you try to fix it by going leaner and leaner on the jets, soon you could have a trashed engine.
Just throwing that out there to give you some info. If the engine is in good repair and the silencer is clean and it's still spooging too much, then there are jetting problems, yes.
It is possible to reduce spooging effects with proper jetting, but the bike needs to be in top shape engine wise before even trying to jet it. If it's spooging because the silencer is clogged, or because the top end is in poor condition causing blow by, or the RH crank seal has failed, then you try to fix it by going leaner and leaner on the jets, soon you could have a trashed engine.
Just throwing that out there to give you some info. If the engine is in good repair and the silencer is clean and it's still spooging too much, then there are jetting problems, yes.
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- #5
I warmed up the bike for a few minutes then put a piece of paper right next to the tailpipe for about 4 or 5 minutes with the throttle ranging from idle all the way up to about 2/3 throttle...This picture is what the paper looked like after 5 minutes..(notice the dripping on the wheel also). The spark plug looked a little wet when I took it out)..I'm not sure how to clean out the silencer since it is all sealed and there looks to be no way to change out the packing..Nothing came out of the drain plug after this short runup.julien_d said:
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/jebapafu/?action=view¤t=004.jpg
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- #7
julien_d said:
93 octane gas mixed 32:1 with Castrol TTS.
I laid that piece of paper down on the ground AFTER the test. Originally it was 2 inches or so from the exhaust. I haven't opened up the carb yet..I had just assumed that I was going to have to re-jet
If you are going to jet the bike, warm it up, take a ride and clear out the motor, the best you can. Then start with a fresh plug, and dial in the pilot circuit, then fiddle with the needle and then the main. Any thing that makes no sense, you have another issue elsewhere. Go all the way rich and lean, feel, hear and see the difference what you are doing is making, and at what throttle opening. Believe it when I tell you it can be very misleading assuming the difference between a lean and rich bogg, take the plug out and see if its wet or dry? Make radical adjustments to make sure its lean or rich. Use the air or mixture on a thumper to see where the pilot is at. The needle may be too lean or rich if the clip is at the top or bottom and it needs more. Buying off brand jets is making your job harder. You get what you pay for in accurate jets. The cheap ones, you would better off machining them your self. Parts wear out in the carb and need replacing. The float valve is the likely culprit on strange rich conditions, replace yearly. Pump fuel is nasty, and even premium is questionable, Rich said so. Try a good mid grade at a busy station. If you can find a small, even Torco dealer? They at least carry fuel that is stored above ground, cheap for race gas, and should be more stable to jet to than pump gas. Cheap race fuel runs 5 dollars to 85 a gallon for the better stuff, it may be even a little higher by now. Oh well, thats the way it is. JD is priceless if you are clueless about sizes. Throttle response, power to the ground. Vintage Bob
reepicheep
Member
- Apr 3, 2009
- 670
- 2
FWIW, I tried to use the air fuel mixture screw to determine if I was lean or rich, and didn't have much better luck then if I had just made wild guesses. The other mistake I made was not letting it warm up under hard load, and not testing it under hard load. Learn how to adjust the jets at the truck by the trail head (easy when you know what you are doing) and adjust, ride a good 5 mile loop of lots of different conditions, and adjust again.
I got jets at one of the big non sponsor motorcycle online sellers. They made it really hard to find the right parts, and they dinged me $8 to ship 5 jets, but the price per jet was good ($7 or so).
I bet if you got on the phone with service honda (a site sponsor) you would get as close to as good a total price as I did, but with a far better experience and advice then I had.
I got jets at one of the big non sponsor motorcycle online sellers. They made it really hard to find the right parts, and they dinged me $8 to ship 5 jets, but the price per jet was good ($7 or so).
I bet if you got on the phone with service honda (a site sponsor) you would get as close to as good a total price as I did, but with a far better experience and advice then I had.
jeba6208
you don't need a kit any good local shop is going to have the main jets for around $2.50 and the Idle jets for around $6.50.
Take the carb apart and let us know what sizes are in there now, beg borrow or steal a compreesion gage with the proper thread size for your spark plug holeand check the compression, check under the seat and make certian the air filter is clean , is there an air box lid and snorkle?
with that much oil I'd drain the transmission oil and change to ATF type f for a test to see if your right crank seal is leaking (looking for a difference... color on your paper or smell)
you don't need a kit any good local shop is going to have the main jets for around $2.50 and the Idle jets for around $6.50.
Take the carb apart and let us know what sizes are in there now, beg borrow or steal a compreesion gage with the proper thread size for your spark plug holeand check the compression, check under the seat and make certian the air filter is clean , is there an air box lid and snorkle?
with that much oil I'd drain the transmission oil and change to ATF type f for a test to see if your right crank seal is leaking (looking for a difference... color on your paper or smell)
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- #11
The main jet is a 160 and the pilot a 48...This KDX has the airbox lid removed with a brand new Twin Air filter, VForce3 Reeds and an FMF Gnarly pipe with stock silencer. That's all the info I can gather on a Sunday nitesr5bidder said:
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Good enough. I'd bet it is indeed running quite rich. That main is HUGE. I hate to give people any recommendations on where to start. If you're not fouling plugs you can't be too far off. Try a 158 or 155 main jet? You may end up needing to go down further. It'd probably be a good idea to have jets on hand from 150 - 158 at a minimum. Perhaps a 45 and 42 pilot jet to try out as well.
Again, the JD jetting kit is always a good way to go. I hear great things about his needles, and how much his kit simplifies the whole process.
J.
Again, the JD jetting kit is always a good way to go. I hear great things about his needles, and how much his kit simplifies the whole process.
J.
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- #13
julien_d said:
I checked the stock carb jet settings and it says that the 160 main is stock, as well as the 48 pilot. I wonder why a stock from-the-factory jetting would be running so rich. Since the airbox lid is removed I figured that that would allow more airflow and potentially a leaner (not richer) mixture
Factories do not sell bikes to blow up, thats what a lean bike will do. Removing the lid did change the air flow, it changed the jetting. Displacement is the only way to change the air flow in the dirt. Clean up the jetting, and the throttle response will be better with out the lid. Start with the pilot, needle then main. Look at the plug a lot, take notes. Remember the weather, altitude and temp changes. Vintage Bob
Sandman 2.0
Member
- Apr 29, 2004
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Stock mine was really rich, for what its worth I run 155/45 dropped needle one notch, air box lid cut and stock pipe and silencer. Bike now runs great but still spooges a bit. I agree with Julien that KDX's just seem impossible to stop the spooge completely. Mine run very crisp now, nice brown plug, idles great and no blubbery throttle response. I'm at 800 above sea level. I think the 155/45 is a great starting point and adjust your air screw to suit.
- Thread starter
- #17
Sandman 2.0 said:
I just ordered that 155/45 combo from Jetsrus...I am also at about 800 feet ASL....I'll drop the needle one notch and see if I get similar results....
I'll update this thread with my results so that others might see how it turned out...
might be a good time to remove the silencer and pipe and flush them out with kerosene or oven cleaner, If it where my bike I'd pop the top for a top end inspection/kips cleaning now as well, many of us have been able to do this and reuse the base and head gaskets. but at least if you clean the pipes out when you rejet you'll know that if its blowing oil out, its new oil
I rebuilt my engine, cleaned the pipe/repacked the silencer and dropped the neddle to clip 2 ...42/155and have about 6hrs on it with no signs of spooge (yet) and just enough smoke to make me feel safe
I rebuilt my engine, cleaned the pipe/repacked the silencer and dropped the neddle to clip 2 ...42/155and have about 6hrs on it with no signs of spooge (yet) and just enough smoke to make me feel safe
Unless you want a kdx torch, DO NOT fill your silencer with anything flamable! Yes, there was packing in there at one time. You can jury rig it, or drop around 50 bucks for one that comes apart. Vintage Bobjeba6208 said:
Every silencer I ever hacked apart, even the old peanut silencer on the 77 had packing in it. Otherwise it will not function properly. Trail bikes need forestry approved spark arrestors. That is impossible to achieve with out packing in there. Packing would have improved the beer can on the stinger, back in the day! I doubt you can ever get the kerosene all the way out. The premix spooge is bad enough, flammable. That is 1 pipe cleaning method I would not recommend. All silencers have a baffle also. Or, they did when they were made. Vintage Bob
reepicheep
Member
- Apr 3, 2009
- 670
- 2
FWIW, I cut up a 1985 KLR-250 silencer, and it had some fiberglass in there.
Ironically, I cut it up to weld it back to stock so the stupid thing would run right, a previous owner thought a "performance mod" would be to pound the spark arrestor down into the can. Sigh.
Ironically, I cut it up to weld it back to stock so the stupid thing would run right, a previous owner thought a "performance mod" would be to pound the spark arrestor down into the can. Sigh.
Before rebuild-able silencers came out, hack them open, replace(yuch!) the old packing, and rivet small tabs of metal to put it back together. MX baffles went straight through. Trail baffles, some look like a pin ball machine! Vintage Bob
