As far as the compression test goes, I did not have the throttle fully open when I did it. I just screwed in the compression gauge and kicked it. I will try it wil throttle full opening tomm. Also yes i did buy a new plug and yea it did foul it before I started jetting. I am in the process right now jetting it but stuck until I get my new pilot and main jet. My airfilter is very very dirty and not much oil is in it. I have already ordered a new filter from Twin Air. Also, I drilled about 8 , 1/2 inch hole in the top of my airbox and removed the snorkel. When my jet come in I plan on finishing off the jetting phase and then starting a top end rebuild. I am considering do a top end rebuild due to all the comments from the treads. Do you think that my top end needs to be rebuilt? The bike hasnt been started since before I started jetting it which was 2 days ago, but will crank it up as soon as my filter and jets get here.GS said:Loosening the head bolts is not a great idea. You don't want any liquid in the crankcase. You may only have teaspoon full, which will probably just smoke like hell on start-up and try to foul your new plug up a bit. Look to see how far down the coolant has dropped in the overflow tank or rad. If you have lost much then it should be removed with the spark plug out. Kick the motor over as per the compression test and watch for coolant to spray out
Compression test: throttle open and kick like hell. Service manual says to look for 95-151 psi. BUT, you gotta do it right and that means more than once. It should still run reasonably well with 90 psi. Is that the screw in type compression tester or the rubber hold it in type? One leaks a little easier than the other. So, my 2 cents says to look elsewhere and I see that you are doing just that. How did the filter look? And, did you buy a new plug...cause it wasn't clear if you cheeped out and tried to clean an old one. I had a brand new dud plug for the Cessna once ($35each) which was not easy to find right away.
Greg
Are you saying that it was a bad idea to drill holes in the airbox and remove the snorkel? A couple of people on here recommended that I do that. Also I took out a 160 main jet and a 50 pilot jet and will replace it with a 155 and 45. No foreign materials were found in the carb at all and i cleaned it out good. When I bought the bike last friday it rode excellent and didnt feel like anything was wrong but after a 3 hour off and on ride at Slades park in the mud, It acted like it was missing and didnt have much power at all in 1st and 2nd gear and some of third and sounded like it was missing at the top of the gears.GS said:You asked..."Do you think that my top end needs to be rebuilt?"
Well it might, but that is the last step I would do based on what I have heard here.
I don't think the 10-40 is a problem in the gearbox. Don't use gear oil. Book says use SE, SF, or SG class oil - SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40 ( 0.7 liters ) Just don't use the "energy conserving" stuff..which some say can cause clutch slippage.
Tranny oil change: ride it a bit before changing, it isn't connected to crankcase
Take the time to seal the air filter very well. NOTHING is allowed past it, right? And you have opened up the airbox to debris.
What size jets came out of the carb?
Did you find any foreign material in the carb/jets or tank screen
Was the motor erratic? ie: missing? or just weak in power delivery?
You're on the road to a fix.
Greg
Before I started working on it whenever I used to buy a new spark plug for it and put it in I would check it after a few minutes of riding. Once pulled out it appeared to be black with a bit of oil on it . Is it suppose to have wet oil on it ?92_KDX250 said:I may be well off here but what about checking the HT Lead, Plug cap etc for dampness as you say it was fine until you were in the mud
Thanks again, I havenot yet started my bike yet but will as soon as I get my jets and will let you know about the choke. My air filter is not going to come in until next week so its there any way that I can clean it to make it cleaner? Please let me know. I am going to the cycle shop today and going to buy some filter oil but what else do I need to clean it with? Also, I measured my compression again with the throttle open and it still reads around 90-100. I already ordered a wiesco piston set and plan to put it in when It arrives but will a new top end give the compression a boost and make it read higher? I want it to read at least 125-130. What do i need to do to get it there.GS said:"Are you saying that it was a bad idea to drill holes in the airbox and remove the snorkel?"Not at all, but the dirt does get in a little easier.
If its running that crappy, the plug will look like that. Plus, if you kicked it over even once without it firing up, the plug will be wet.
"It acted like it was missing and didnt have much power at all in 1st and 2nd gear and some of third and sounded like it was missing at the top of the gears" Please confirm if it was in fact erractic, in that the missing is quick and abrupt..exhaust note is on/off, cause it sounds erratic...which is most often electrical in nature.
I think 92_KDX250 is right about the connection to moisture and mud. Have a very good look for any moisture or any alternative route for your hi-voltage circuit to ground itself. The magneto cover should come off a s well. Its located on the left side of the bike and look for clues there as to moisture there. How deep did it get in the wet stuff?
What elevation do you ride at? (estimate)
Did you check the float fuel level and confirm the operation of the float seat while the carb was off?
We all need to know about the choke question as well..see questions above.
Greg
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