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Canadian Daves JustKDX
Bought '90 KDX 200 - Looking for info.
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[QUOTE="RuffTrane, post: 1227428, member: 43842"] [b]1990 tips[/b] Hey, I've had a 1990 E2 for about 4 years now. I can't help you with the manual thing but check the big "E" auction site for the manual. They come up all the time. You can get quite a bit out of this bike for relatively little Money. It's not a KTM Exc 300 out of the box but you can work on it to make it a pretty fun bike to ride. [I][I]For starters... how much oil to put in the bottom end? What weight?[/I]: You put in 800ml. If you clean the grime off of where the fill up plug is for the tranny it will say .8litres I use 85wt Maxima in the summer and 80wt in the fall. I'm paranoid about transmissions so I but the good stuff. Look at the posts in the beginning of the forum for all tips on KDXs...I think the post is named "Every KDX rider should look at this". Fork Springs: I put in heavier fork springs but I had to go to the Kawasaki dealer to order them. They make a huge difference if you're over 200lbs. I got both the stiffer springs and the fork seals done at the dealer as I'm always rushed on fixing the rest of the bike in the spring. That's too tecnical for me at this time as well. Re: Shift lever: Once you clean the gunk out you will see a 8mm or 10mm nut that can be tightened. Pretty straight forward. It always gets burried by oil and dirt. Just clean it off, it's there. You should not have to take off the chain. I have tightened it out on the trail a number of times. Re: Sprocket guard: There is supposed to be a grey guard that goes over the sprocket. There are about 3 threaded holes around the area to mount the guard. You might be able to order one through a dealer or make your own. Sorry, I don't have a picture available at the moment but you might find one online. To get the most out of the 1990 here are the steps I took: 1) Remove the snorkel in the air box. HUGE difference for no money. Some people like to drill holes in the airbox as well to lean it out. You have to be careful if you do that. Do it in steps and play with the jetting. Take the snorkel off first. See how it goes. If it's sufficient stay there unless you have time to play around quite a bit with the jetting. 2) FMF fatty pipe: Most expensive upgrade but the biggest difference in power came from putting on this pipe. 3) Boysen Reeds: you don't need a new cage. Just the reeds. Buy them and install them. The reed cage already exists in the bike. 4) Silencer: I just got an aftermarket silencer this year. Not sure how much this increased power. I think it did but not as much as when I removed the snorkel and installed the FMF pipe. Extra info: Bearings etc. as usual go on you quite often if not maintained. There are lots of aftermarket companies that sell them. The Kawi bearings are outrageously expensive. With all my mods I just run PJ1 semi-synthetic at about 40-1. 32-1, which is the recommended mixture gummed up my plugs. The bike is really easy to work on and parts are relatively inexpensive compared to KTM for example. Use all of the auction sites to your advantage and you'll find parts (i.e. a pipe or reeds). Have fun and keep it between the trees.[/I] [/QUOTE]
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Dirt Bike Discussions By Brand
Canadian Daves JustKDX
Bought '90 KDX 200 - Looking for info.
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