Brand New To Me

[ericmiles]

Well I am the proud owner of a 1996 KDX200. Good news...I paid $400 for it...bad news, not sure it was worth even that much!!! :ohmy: It has seen better days!
Regardless I am excited to dig into it and see what it is going to take to get it to where I am somewhat happy with it. I stayed up late reading all these threads, my new (oil stained) service manual and now am looking forward to tearing into it.

Was it worth what I paid?
Any ideas on the first gear business? I thinking bent shift shaft or forks? This guy was NOT a mechanic...the pipe and most plastic is held on with zip ties!!! :whoa:
Oh and where do I find nuts and bolts for all these empty holes?

Here is the advertisement and pics off craigslist that garnered my attention and dollars:

1996 Kawasaki kdx 200.
Good news - starts first kick everytime, runs really strong, extra forks and service manual included. New tail pipe.
Bad news - sometimes it gets stuck in first gear. Usually takes a minute or two for it to release. I am a trail rider so i just skip 1st gear .​

 

[dirt bike dave]

Are you living in a cold climate?

If it is sticking in first gear only when the bike and outdoor temps are very cold, and then it works normal after the bike warms up, it could just be he is using to thick of a gearbox oil. I've had that problem on a KDX250 when using motorcycle gear oil instead of lighter weight motor oil or Type F ATF.

$400 seems like an OK price to me, especially if wheel bearings, steering head bearings and linkage bearings are in good shape. If those things are shot, I'd replace bearings before I spent money on cosmetics.

Looks like tires, chain, sprockets will be needed. That could easily be $300+. Figure another $100 - $150 for a piston and top end gaskets.

All in all, the bike looks rough and if you intend to make it cherry, you probably will spend more on it thant its worth. But at least you can spend the money $50 - $150 at a time, instead of spending it all at once like you would have if you bought one in great shape.

 

[ericmiles]

Live in North Texas DFW area. I am going to tear it down tonight, drain fluids, replace etc and see if that makes a difference. I use Type F in my son's KX65 and it works great. As you said, cosmetics will come over time as I find time, ebay deals and the like.
Bearings are going to be a learning experience for me, but I know the front needs them for sure and assume the others do as well. Tires, chains, etc are all wear items so you pretty much expect to have to replace those. Engine fires right up, idled well, and I ran it up thru the gears from 2nd on up. Did not bother even trying first yet as the previous owner said, it is will go into first but can take 10 minutes of fiddling to get it out of first.
This forum is awesome, so much information. Thanks to all. I will share as I learn so others may benefit in the future.

 

[BSWIFT]

Looks like a good deal. Try finding a KX125 and do a hybrid. You'll gain better suspension and have a cool ride to boot.

 

[ericmiles]

I will look into that, but will probably try to get it back fully functional as a KDX first.
Well I tore into her last night looking to see how bad things might be. Other than it not being a beauty queen, I am not as worried as I was.
Clutch - will need to be done some time, but looks find for now, minor wear on basket. Oil was nasty and old. refilled with some ATF that I use in the KX65.
Gaskets - need to order a full set, looks like someone put it all back together at some point with just RTV
Air Filter - just nasty...yikes.
I drove it around the yard and up and down the block, no issues with first gear at all. Will have to wait until it happens I guess to troubleshoot it. It's been laid down a lot, I did not pull off the shifter yet, seems to been bent and corrected a few times :) Could have been the source of the problem for previous owner. Time will tell.
Went through and cut off all the zip ties and replaced them with proper bolts etc. Have one left to do on the pipe...it is snapped off (the bolt part of the damper - part 92160-1176), so I am going to have to research or modify and find out what that is supposed to look like and see if have to buy a new one or can drill it out and make something work.
Still have to dig into the Top End, bearings and carb tonight and this weekend.

 

[dirt bike dave]

Congrats on making so much progress so fast.

For the damper mount on the pipe, you are best off biting the bullet and getting that from Kawasaki, or finding a used one in good condition. I tried to repair one once, with no success.

Hopefully the shifting problem was due to the bent shifter and old, heavy oil. Either one could do it.

Before you go for a serious trail ride, you might want to check the fork oil level. My guess is the original owner just rode it stock. Combined with the soft springs, too low of a fork oil (as delivered by Kawi) will have the front end way too soft.

 

[reepicheep]

When you have the clutch out, check the pins on the shifter drum also. Maybe one of them is bent.

Splitting the cases isn't rocket science on a KDX, so if you have to split it, you are just out $40 to $70 for gaskets and main bearings.

 

[sr5bidder]

I found some hardware at rocky mountain atv, the m6 threads with 8mm hex heads for really cheap ..they are chrome and I think they were like 2 bucks for 25 of them I ended up getting 4 bags of different lengths.

that is a good find for 400 bucks..sorry for the purple though

 

[reepicheep]

That is cheap, that's nice. I just bought a "bag of hardware" from an EBay seller... when they part out bikes they sell all the screws and bolts and fittings. It was more expensive, but it included some nice harder to find bits, and a nice collection of sizes. I think I even scored an expansion pipe mount (the rubber and steel block to mount the pipe to the frame), which paid for the whole kit.

 

[sr5bidder]

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/-/171/988/-/9509/Tusk-6mm-Flange-Bolts/BOLTS

here is a link as it is pretty hard to search and find the cheap ones on rmatv

it just does not make sense not to order a few different sizes if you are already placing an order for something with them

 

[reepicheep]

Cool sr5bidder! They also have a 150 piece kit for $14 or something... next time I am getting something from them I will toss that in.

If you want to just buy one bag, get the longer ones, and make sure you have a nut handy. Then when you need a short one, put the nut all the way down the shaft, cut the bolt to the length you want with a hacksaw, then take the nut off (which will chase and clean up the threads).

Probably easier to just get the assortment, especially at that price. You try and buy those at Home Depot, and you will pay 10x as much per bolt.

 

[sr5bidder]

and too the ones at home depot or pepboys do not have the flange on the head

be aware though the longer ones are shanked and do not have the threads all the way up to the head, I am well aware of how to cut bolts though..

the m6 x 10mm are good for the radiator shrouds and headlight assembly and the m6 x 15mm are the most handy for control brackets and radiator mounts

i need to hunt down some m6 regular and fender washers too

 

[ericmiles]

Excellent links and feedback. Thank you all. :nod:

As an update I did take the bike out last weekend nearby and stayed fairly close to the truck (worried I would have to push it back) We rode for a couple of hours. I had no issues with the bike although the rider had a few and had to pick up said bike a few times...Ha hA ;) . Here are the bikes after some fun in the mud.

To do: Clutch obviously needs done, suspension needs attention, luckily had no issues with 1st gear or any gear for that matter. I found enough bolts/screws etc to replace all but one zip tie. Got to find that pipe mount bracket that reepicheep found in his bag o'hardware. Local kawasaki shop says they can get me one, so I will probably go that route but am going to look first on ebay for a lucky bag-o-bolts!

 

[reepicheep]

From kawasaki, that stupid thing was like $30 or something.

Is that a KX-65? I rebuilt a KX-60 for my kid, which he rode a lot, and I just finished rebuilding a KX-80 (now KX-100) to replace it. He is still a bit small for it, so I had to stretch the dog bones and lower it, but boy is that motor nice.

The KX-60, without a KIPS valve and with a primadonna crappy carb, really makes you appreciate a KDX. I don't know if the KX-65 was any better...

 

[sr5bidder]

Excellent links and feedback. Thank you all. :nod:

As an update I did take the bike out last weekend nearby and stayed fairly close to the truck (worried I would have to push it back) We rode for a couple of hours. I had no issues with the bike although the rider had a few and had to pick up said bike a few times...Ha hA ;) . Here are the bikes after some fun in the mud.

To do: Clutch obviously needs done, suspension needs attention, luckily had no issues with 1st gear or any gear for that matter. I found enough bolts/screws etc to replace all but one zip tie. Got to find that pipe mount bracket that reepicheep found in his bag o'hardware. Local kawasaki shop says they can get me one, so I will probably go that route but am going to look first on ebay for a lucky bag-o-bolts!

is it your camera or did you spray paint the plastics blue?

 

[ericmiles]

reepicheep: yes it is a KX65...he loves it. Been reliable so far (we have had it about a year...its an 03 model) Had a problem though, he says it keeps jumping out of first and into neutral. So need to look into that.
sr5bidder: No spray paint...Just a cell phone camera...it is original purple...faded of course. After I get it mechanically sound, I am going to think about reducing the amount of purple :)

 

[sr5bidder]

I would start with the seat cover and beware if you are a tad short on the bike you will want to stay away from the gripper seat covers, when you try to dabb on a high section it will hold on to you and aid in a full spill.

on the kx65 you may want to see if it uses a shift star, if it does you can cup it out a bit more for the first gear position...also check the spring that holds the detent wheel