Brand New Yz125 - Clutch Sticky/not Smooth??


rexineffect

Member
Mar 16, 2015
9
0
Im going to bold out all the questions and important stuff, so if you dont want to read it all, just read the bold spots and give feedback. Thanks!


It's brand new, just broke in probably about 6 or less hours on it now i think. I did the break in, about an hour or so then a gear oil change. Before anything, I did install a magnetic drain plug into the gear oil drain spot.


I am using the Yamalube stuff manual recommends.


I did move the shifter lever up a little cause my boots and stuff i just thought it would be easier when i was on it testing out the fit and checking my sag before i ever rode it. So i moved it up a little for my boot to fit under it.


OK - so whats going on is sometimes I feel like its not shifting smooth. I dont know if its just me or what. but maybe you guys can share your thoughts and what you think. SHould it be super smooth? Do you guys ever get neutral instead of second when your shifting. Its hard for me to feel the shifter and shit when those damn boots on. Its not like regular shoes where you can reallly feel the lever and the gears going in and out through the lever. the boots are thick and make it hard for me. I guess i need to get used to them more.

Any ideas??


I should probably open it up now???... the clutch case, if i feel like there might be some sticking or like, not smooth operation of the gears.
Any tips/tricks/concerns when if you guys suggest opening it up to take a look?




oh yea, i havn't always been using the clutch, I let off throttle, lower rpm and take torque off the gears, and push it up into gear. i dont feel anything bad when i do it, its smooth and feels ok. what do you guys think about using clutch, how do it, when to do it. feather? power shift? always use clutch? make freeplay in clutch? pull halfway? any ideas are all welcome.


and today i noticed some play in the clutch line. I grabbed down where the cable went into the tranny case and wiggled it up and down, i could tell there was like 2 or 3 or 4 millimiters of play in it. so i adjusted up there on the handle with the quick adjuster to tighten the cable up a little. I noticed it first of because when i parked it for a sec, left it in first gear, then went to move it
i pulled in clutch and i thought i heard the piston move up and down once or so when i was pushing it, like the clutch wasn't fully engaged, so i put it in neutral and sure enough it was way easier to push, for sure clutch wasn't fully engaged.
i was also pushing the engine over when moving it. so then i adjusted. This im sure happened because of break in, cable just is setting into its natural position, it was brand new and now its breaking in, so needs adjusting.
I dont hold the clutch in and glide for long periods, like going 40 mph, hold in clutch and just coast for long periods. I mean maybe i have a little here and there, but not like an all the time thing. I know this is not good, right? dont do that right? technically it should be 100% fine tho shouldn't it, to hold clutch in and coast forever. cause a properly adjusted and engaged clutch will be fine to do that with.....is that right or wrong?


is there a really good way to know how to adjust the clutch to be perfect????



Is there a better oil I should be running. Seems like i can do better than yamalube? right? manual recommends 10W-40 in it. Im going to swtich now though, either amsoil or royal purple i think, unless 3 or more of you guys all say a different kind. I dont care what kind, i just want it to be the best!!!!!!!!!



someone told me to get aftermarket clutch, heavy duty frictions and steel plates. that sound good to you guys?

should i wait for my stock clutch to need replacing before swtiching? seems like waist of money to replace perfectly new stock clutch plates?



I cant remember that damn name of the one he said to get, ummmm....i dont know. he said brands for everything he recommended, vfoce carbon reeds, i think he said pro circuit pipe and he said a clutch brand that i cant remember. He said it was heavy duty, real nice and all. he also said he usually "feathers" the clutch. what exactly is that? and is it a good idea.





I appreciate everyone taking time to read and help. If you could do your best to give all the feedback you can ill appreciate it and take notes. I like to get lots of info and kind of put it all together and make my own conclusions rather than just read one thing and stick to it. dunno, thats just how my brain works so....

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
any other questions, just ask real quick, ill be checking here lots.
 

Rich Rohrich

Moderator / BioHazard
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jul 27, 1999
22,816
16,885
Chicago
Start here :

Its hard for me to feelthe shifter and shit when those damn boots on. Its not like regular shoes where you can reallly feel the lever and the gears going in and out through the lever. the boots are thick and make it hard for me. I guess i need to get used to them more.

Sometimes it's just a matter of adjusting the shift lever to a comfortable height for your foot. It's adjustable for a reason.

Any quality oil will work fine. There is no magic hiding in a different bottle.

Adjust the clutch so there is enough free play at the lever to fit about the width of a nickel.

If you want it to shift better then use the F&[HASHTAG]#ing[/HASHTAG] clutch to shift. When you start winning SX titles then you can worry about speed shifting to get that last tenth. You aren't Ricky Carmichael so quit abusing your bike.
 
Last edited:

rexineffect

Member
Mar 16, 2015
9
0
lol. thanks for the feedback man. width of a nickel huh....and is that slack in the cable or slack from adjusting the lock nut and nut on the handle lever backside?
 

Rich Rohrich

Moderator / BioHazard
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jul 27, 1999
22,816
16,885
Chicago
Pull the slack lightly at the clutch lever and a nickel should just barely fit in the space between the lever ant the perch before it feels like it's really pulling on the clutch.
 

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