Changing a tire

its not too bad...well, yes it is....here's how I do it...

Loosen the rim lock nut.

take off the tire, deflate and place on tire stand (I have moved up to a stand but I used to lay it on a milk crate) - use your weight and push the tire into the center valley of the rim from both sides - this will help to loosen the bead. I start opposite the valve stem and put one lever under and pry the bead part way up - I only go part way up (without prying over the lip) so that I can get another lever in there. Put that lever a couple spokes down and pry them both up at the same time - then piggyback you way around the tire (leave one lever in, take one out, move it over pry up and so on). once one side it off put the tube and rim lock out and pry the tire over and off.

installation is the reverse noting that you'll need to use the levers to get the tire back on at the very end - be careful not to pinch the tube. use plenty of powder on the tube and put a little air in it to give it some shape - very little....pay attention to direction too - make sure you put the tire on in its correct rotational direction.

In order:

1. Order new tire
2. Remove wheel/tire assembly
3. Install wheel/tire assembly into truck bed
4. Transport wheel/tire assembly to shop
5. Remove wheel/tire assembly from truck bed
6. Pry wallet open, carefully extract $10 bill
7. Installation = reverse of above, minus step six

:nod: :laugh:

I have to say.... lou's method is much quicker than mine.

let me add - you can use those shiny new tire irons to pry open the wallet if necessary.... :laugh:

I tried tackling my 756RR's myself, but I found I could only pull off the front tire. The rear tire was just so stiff, I didn't have the patience and rim protectors to do it right, so to the bike shop it went!

well for my dads 74 Honda XL175 enduro bike it was a PITA. here's how we did it and how it went. go to yammy shop buy brand new tube. first we were nice and calm.eventually with a little bit of swearing involved. (i took tire of bike before hand) laid it on the ground (sprocket up). do what nickyd said. get new tire half on, put the tube in, and CAREFULLY without pinching tube put the tire on rim, and air it up. when we aired it up ait held air fine, so i put it back on the bike. rolled it out to fire it up, and i noticed the tire was flat, so back into the shop it went, take the tire off the bike once again, get dad to help again, take rubber half off the rim( one side of tire) take out tube sure enough there is a pinch mark, patch it up, put tube back in tire, put tire back on rim, and it didnt hold air. dammit! so repeated that to get the tube, and took it right out and patched the other little pinch mark and shoved it back in the tire and tire back on rim. rolled it out and 2 days later it went flat. so back to the yammy shop and got brand new tube, and put that in and its held ever since.

I won't be cute with the steps, or pretend I've mastered it. I've had it work great, and also had a three-patch 'new' tube make me wonder why I ever bought a new one.

For me three or four irons makes it easier. I use two of the shorter cheapies to hold the bead and two longer more expensive ones for prying. I also use soap (soapy water, but more in a moment) instead of powder to lube the rim, and leaving the tire in the sun to warm first helps.

But ... for some reason alloy rims seem to mount easier for me. Last summer I swapped tireas and replaced tubes on more than one of my vintage full sized bikes. Tubing my daughter's XR100 with chromed steel rims was another story! After purchasing two new tubes (three pinches is my limit) and still not getting her 19" front right I went to a local wheel works (that's all they really do --- true wheels, mount tires, etc.). They've been around forever and most of the Denver area shops use them for truing.

I walked in just before the owner locked the door, and talked him into doing the job with stories about my poor thirteen year old having to sit around crying while everyone else rode the next day. Softie that he is, he grabbed a new tube and I followed him back to his laboratory.

For a stand he used a steel drum, like a 55gallon oil drum, but maybe 20 gallons (34" high, two raised ridges around it). His tire irons were impressive --- probably 15" long, with round handles and cupped curves for prying. I experienced iron envy, but don't really think size matters. It's what you do with them.

Removal wasn't an issue, as I brought the wheel with one bead off the rim and sans the tube I'd yanked out and jumped up and down on while cursing a blue streak. He put in a brand new tube and inflated a little air into it to round it some (I've always done that too).

I did pay attention now though, and think I'll do much better myself when I next attempt a mount. Instead of the soapy water I always made a mess and soaked the knees of my jeans with, he stuck his hand in a coffee can and smeared the bead with what he said was special soap they use for mounting truck tires. I think mechanic soap, like Goop, would work exactly the same way. He then used two of the irons I described in much the way the earlier posts described. The real key though, I believe, was that he never brought the handles of the irons beyond vertical when prying the bead on. With the drum as a work stand he pushed more than half on by hand, but then used the irons. I said something about him not going past vertical, and he said he didn't want to pinch the tube. When he finished I asked him if that was the trick, and he said, "You watched me, didn't you?"


I told him how grateful my daughter would be, and that it might even help with her medical condition to raise her spirits, shelled out $16 for the tube and mount, and went home a poorer and wiser man. I've found that combination seems common.

I bought tire irons 10 years ago and they have earned their keep. I have not paid to have a tire changed since. I do all my own. No tire stand, right on the shop floor beside the bike. If I have changed 20 tires, I have prbably installed half of them twice from pinching the tubes on install. It just doesn't seem to get any easier after you do 2 or 3. I still struggle and pinch my fingers once in a while. I use soapy water to ease the bead back on. I also put a little air in the tube after the first bead is over the rim. Then the second bead does not catch the tube and pinch it as easily. I always buy heavy duty tubes. One time just for fun I changed the tire and tube, only with the tools I carry with me. No soapy water either. This way I knew if I could do it trailside in the bush. It is my opinion that if you are going to ride a dirt bike in the bush away from help, you had better know how to do your own tire repairs. Especially if you are riding with me, cause I sure as h e l l am not going to repair your flat for you. I will teach my sons to chage their own tires as well, this is something every dirtbiker should do.

I found the main things to remember when starting to change my own tyres are :- Patience - if its not going right its because you are not doing it right - leave enough time to stop and think for your first few goes. Lubrication - this is vital. I use tyre soap which I bought from a dealer. I got enough to last my lifetime plus a natty little brush to apply it with for very little money. Or you could speak nicely to the man next time you have tyres put on car. Positioning - always ensure that you have the bead as far as possible into the well of the rim on the opposite side to that which you are working. Some enduro riders can change tyre at the trailside in 5 minutes. This advice comes to you from someone who take about 15 to change a rear tyre in the workshop with all tools etc to hand. The same person who when first trying removed the old tyre with the help of a hacksaw, and tried for an hour with the new one before taking it to the shop. If I can learn, anyone can!

Windex works awesome.....

I have been changing my own tires for quite sometime. I lived next door to Dostal's mechanic and he taught me a couple of things that make it quick and easy to slip the tire on. First use windex ( from spray bottle). If sprayed liberally(lots), tire will not pinch. Make sure you have a little air in the tube. Also we would take an old 5gal plastic bucket and cut it near the base maybe about 3-4'' from the bottom. Setting the rim inside the bucket keeps it stable and helps keep from moving while protecting your sprocket and brake disc. The longer your tire irons are the better, leverage is everything. I use a total of 3 and get a tire off and back on in about 5 min. All of the steps listed previous work.

the goop at the gas station for a car is ..........get this .....................concentrated, goopy,,,,,,,,,,,hold on ..............MURPHYS OIL SOAP!!


AWW MAN , the cats out now

I changed one last weekend (a front), and tried the mechanic's soap (slimy stuff in a plastic can). It worked great! I also powdered the inside of the tire before putting the tube in --- something I knew a long time ago but forgot until I read it in this thread.

Last night my rear on another bike went flat. This weekend I'll see how easy a heavier rear with two rim locks is. Last rear I said 'screw it' and paid someone, but my recent success has given me courage.

Have any of you ever tried wire pulling lube? I've used it on my last 2 or 3 changes. It seems to work well and is easy to clean off. I haven't pinched a tube yet, but I'm very patient when doing a change. I don't have the technique down yet, so I've learned to just walk away when I start to get frustrated. I also use rim protectors. If I'm not mistaken, they are made by Kowa.

if you want to change your tires yourself best bet is to have at least 3 tire irons so you can have 2 holding the tire and 1 for walkin around the rim other thing is some lube for dirt use tire lube or you can use some 50/50 mix of coolant for street get yourself a can of silicone spray but dont use on dirt tires cause it will stay slick and your tire will walk and you will end up rippin the valve stem off. when installing the new tube dont go past vert with the irons or you will have a good chance of pinching the tube. good luck

It's gonna take practice, and sweat. About a year ago, Dirtbike had a great step by step article on how to change a tire...maybe you have that issue?...it had some good tips...just try it....good luck.

btw, when you become proficient you could easily be done with a rear tire in 15mins...soup to nuts.

Hey Klink, I find myself in a life-and-death struggle with my new tires and had to reference this thread! My local shop has lost me to the point that I don't want to even pay them $10 each to change my tires anymore. Sad but true. Anyhoo, Nickyd's first post looks like where I'll start. Man, these are harder than MTB tires!

I have changed one front tire about 4 years ago. We used box end wrenches since we didn't have tire irons. Can you believe that?! It wasn't easy, but we got it. Now I'm alone and thought I'd try the back wheel first since it's surely the harder of the two (making the front one seem like cake!). Well, I haven't even broken the bead! I do have irons and spoons though. I think I'll give her another crack tomorrow...

I think I use about every technique that has been mentioned. I recently just started doing my own tire and tube changes because my local shops charge anywhere from $25 on up. Main thing I noticed is if you leave the tire in the sun or heat it up some before you try to pry it off it makes it a lot easier. Also try to use heavy duty tubes instead of the regulars. Its really not to hard, just take your time. If you search around the net i have seen several HOW TO's with pics on other sites.

Oh and DK, I just got word that the local spot around here is opened back up again, i'm getting more info on it hopefully this week so I will keep you posted.

I did our pw80 rear twice today. That's right, I don't think I got anywhere near the tube but apparently I did. The funny thing was that when I got the flat tube out, I couldn't find the leak. Back on topic, I use three irons, one to hold, and two mobile, the longer one moves the most. Only thing I really have to add is before you start, make sure you have two or three tubes, and run by your local auto parts store and get a good rubber patch kit, I use the kind that you glue down.

Well, I'm done. It took me 90 minutes to do front and rear. My first ever tire changes solo and with the right tools (I've only been riding for 5.5 years now). Removing the stock D739 "El Diablos" and replaced with Michelin Starcross. I think I can officially say that changing tires sucks gigantic donkey balls. Wait, yeah, I'm sure it does. And I have three smaller spoons and one medium sized iron. I figure by the time I need new tires next time, my knuckles should be healed, and the sweated out water replaced in my system.

Chili, It sounds like you might be better served to buy a second set of wheels so you can just swap out. Just a thought.