Cleaning the air filter

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Aug 5, 2001
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#2
I use mineral spirits, or paint thinner, same thing. It puts a hurtin' on the filter oil and cleans the filter great. I have not had any problems with the glue on the filter decomposing, but, I always rinse the filter thoroughly afterwards. Almost any solvent will work, but mineral spirits is pretty easy to get, and it won't eat your skin off, for short periods of exposure. Always be careful with solvents and flamability. Good luck.
 

smb_racing

Master of None
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#5
I have to put in another shameless plug for No-Toil. A little bit of their filter cleaner in some nice warm water and the filter is cleaner than I've ever seen. However you must also use their filter oil, won't wash out with anything but their cleaner and stays really tacky. :)
 
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Jun 23, 2001
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#6
thanks, I tried the soap and water thing and all it did was make a gooie mess.
I used hand degreaser, but it didn't work too well.
I will try the gas method since it's readily available.

How about simple green? That should work?
 
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#7
Any of yall use Barsol.I do.I dunno about it hurting the filter or anything, but it works great.
 
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Feb 26, 2001
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#8
i use dish detergent and water, cold i guess.

what is the no-toil filter all about? what exactly does no toil mean?

also i dry my filter after washing with a hair dryer before putting on my filter oil, is that ok? i dont think its from this but my filters bottom like the outside of the hole that touches up against the intake hole is ripping like the liner of it.:think
 
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May 16, 2001
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#9
I think NO Toil means its easy to clean up. I also use No Toil products. I had a No Toil filter on my blaster and when I sold it I had all the chemicals left. I now use them on my Twin Air. I ran out of the filter cleaner powder so now I just use hot soapy water and it takes the oil right out. I also like how the oil is red so you can tell where the oil is and if you missed a spot. It's super tacky so you know its going to trap the dirt, yet it flows wonderfully. I love the feel of my bike after I clean the filter. I can really notive the power gain. I clean mine about twice a week. There's no reason not too. It's a win win situation.
 
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Jun 14, 2000
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#10
Read more about No-Toil here => http://www.no-toil.com
Jeff at MX-South (DRN Sponsor) can get it for you. I buy the cleaner and filter oil in the gallon jugs.

Kerosene also works for cleaning air filters and is not as flameable as gasoline. After the kerosene bath, wash the filter in soap & water, then rinse well with plain clear water to get the soap out.

Good Luck!
 
Joined
May 21, 2001
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#11
I just dip the filter in WD-40 couple times to break the oil down the wash it with soapy water works great and the WD-40 can be reused a a lot.Just have to get the WD-40 thats not in the spray can.
 

BP

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Jun 25, 2000
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#12
The cheapest most effective way ? Tide or Cheer laundry detergent with dishwasing liquid in the hottest water you can stand. Let completely dry and apply your favorite oil.

BP
 
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Feb 6, 2001
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#13
I use a one gallon icecream bucket full of keroseen with wire mesh about 1/2in. off the bottom so the dirt can settle out. I usually reuse the keroseen at least 10 times. I let most of the keroseen drip out then wash it out with laundry deturgent. then oil with Bel-Ray. No-toil sounds like a good way to go but I have never tried it.
 
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Jan 1, 2001
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#14
UNI Death?

Will the no-toil stuff hurt my nice new UNI air filter that I love so much??!? The air filter has worked wonders for my bike and I thought I have heard some stories about the no-toil harming the UNI filters.

Lee Wilson
 
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Sep 5, 2001
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#15
filter care

I found the best way to clean it is to first dip it in either petrol or turps to break down the old filter oil and grime. Then rinse with warm soapy water and let it dry thoroughly. Remember to re-oil the filter with a good quality filter oil, i prefer to use "Finer Filter" oil. Massage the oil in with your hands and then remove any excess by squeezing or patting it dry with a cloth. Remember to apply a thin film of oil/grease on the surface of the inner filter skeleton where it meets the foam to ensure a good seal.
I've even heard of some manufacturers filter oils intentionally hardening up on the surface of the filter, trapping dirt and then cracking (during the process of riding and jumping) allowing the hardened clog to fall to the bottom of the box and leaving a clean area of the filter exposed. I know it sounds pretty cooky, but it seems good in theory.