clutch hub nut removal

[craig_enid]

We have a challenge! We don't have access to an air-wrench but we need to get the clutch hub nut off the clutch basket. We have a flywheel holding tool that we are using but the inner hub is spinning making it seemingly impossible to get the nut off. any suggestions? We have managed to get the nut off of bike #1, but same processs doesnt work on bike #2?!?!
:think:

 

[Zenith]

You read this thread? http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46290.
I put up a picture of a tool we made which holds the counter shaft, which will hold the clutch centre if the bike is in gear... Check it out http://www.dirtrider.net/cgi-bin/photopost/index.pl?photo=2036

 

[BRush]

Sounds like maybe you took off the clutch springs before trying to loosen the main nut? If so, put the springs back on. That will clamp the plates and stop the inner hub from spinning. Then the flywheel holder will work to hold it steady when loosening the hub nut. After it's loose, then you can remove the springs.

 

[craig_enid]

Zenith, yes. we searched and read that thread before posting.... problem was the inner hub moving.

BRush, springs in place, hub still twisting. I took a chance and backed one of the bolts out of the spring holder and used it as a 'stop'. With the flywheel holder in place, slowly spun the bolt around until a wrench would be on the bolt and against the right footpeg. That provided enough 'stop' for me to get the clutch hub nut loose. I was leary of breaking the inner hub 'cone', but got lucky.
Bike #1 back together, working on #2, now.

 

[Zenith]

Ok, but if you make and use that tool and put the bike in gear it will hold the inner clutch hub without any risk of damaging the basket or other parts. I'm pretty sure I'm right about that, altogh it has been some months since I've had my engine apart so you can confirm it for me. It is really quick and easy to make if you have a welder, and it uses up one of those old sprockets! Added benefit is if you don't have a fly wheel holder it can be used to install/remove the fly wheel nut and the primary drive gear bolt! Almost as many uses as WD40! :confused: ...almost...

 

[Robcolo]

Clutch Hub Nut Removal Made Easy

Forget the flywheel holder. Put the bike in a high gear , place a 1/2" diamater steel rod through the rear sprocket and over both sides of the swingarm. The nut will now come right off. To reinstall, Put the rod on the reverse side of the swingarm and torque it [clutch hub nut] to specs.

 

[Sage]

sounds like you trying to hold the outer basket with your holder? I know there is much pride with making your own tools but Motion Pro makes a vise grip looking tool for grabbing the inner basket that works very good and is much more sano in the tool box (and can be used on other bikes) than a .......... farm tool.

the steel rod in the spokes works but is a bit rough on the spokes if you have a really tight nut. most shops will bust a nut off for free if you run it by and ask, even if it costs $10 or so it will most likely save time & money over building tools and running the risk of breaking your clutch basket (which will cost a lot more than getting a proper clutch holding tool)

 

[craig_enid]

I'm liking the rod through the sprocket idea.... I'll give that a try putting #2 together.
(and maybe to take it back apart when it doesn't work;))

 

[copyguy]

There may be a real reason why this is not a good idea but it worked for me so hear it goes. I pulled the ignition cover off and backed that nut with a ratchet which kept the clutch from turning while I loosened the clutch nut. After fighting with mine for about an hour I didn't care anymore.

I've done this about three times with no problems so far. With the gearing between the two it doesn't take much pressure on the ignition nut to hold things in place.

If someone can tell me why this is a bad idea please feel free to jump in.

 

[Robcolo]

NUT REMOVAL

The bar levers against the SPROCKET - not the spokes. As Sage said, It would be very unkind to the spokes - pass it thru the spaces between them.

 

[Dr. Dirt]

I had the same problem. With the flywheel held solid the clutch would slip when I tryed to loosen the nut. I installed the new springs I had which where stiff enough to break the nut loose. You might try some shims behind the old springs could be just enough tension to hold. Good luck.

 

[craig_enid]

I used the bar over/under the swingarm and through the sprocket and it worked both ways, removing and installing. Don't have to hold the flywheel when using that method.
Both bikes running OK during the cul-de-sac test drives. :)

 

[TexKDX]

Originally posted by Sage
sounds like you trying to hold the outer basket with your holder? I know there is much pride with making your own tools but Motion Pro makes a vise grip looking tool for grabbing the inner basket that works very good and is much more sano in the tool box (and can be used on other bikes) than a .......... farm tool.

That motion pro tool is a piece of CRAP and a good way to booger up your baskets. Some bent sheet metal on tapered aluminum grooves vs. about 40 foot pounds of rotating force? PLEASE. Motion Pro gets the "people will buy anything" award for producing that tool.

The rear rod trick sounds like it works as it puts pressure on the SPROCKET, not the SPOKES.

I use a tiedown between the footpegs thru the rear wheel and have someone put alot of pressure on the rear brake.

Sage, you came in awhile ago and got flamed, and obviously we are all still idiots in your book.

 

[2001yz250]

Put the friction plates and the steel plates back in, place a penny(soft copper) between the main gear and the clutch housing gear and remove the nut. Work every time and no damage to anything, plus it only costs $.01 :confused:

 

[TexKDX]

I've heard this one before and see how it would work for the primary nut, but can't for the life of me figure it out for the inner clutch hub nut.

On the bikes I've worked on, to even get to the nut you have to pull the bolts that hold the pressure on the springs. When these bolts are out, you have nothing making the plates have friction enough to keep the tranny input shaft from spinning.

Maybe the YZ is different? My WR400 sure was not. Had to replace the inner basket on it. The release mechanism comes right thru the center and presses on that outter plate, so you don't have access to the big nut while the springs are in place. Without friction between the plates, the inner hub spins freely, even it there were a penny between the outter basket and the primary gear.

 

[2001yz250]

This is true! Now that you mention it, that is for the primary nut! For the inner clutch hub, I put a small bolt through the plates of the chain so as to join the chain on the top of the countershaft sprocket with the section of chain on the bottom of the countershaft sprocket. All this does is keep the sprocket from being able to turn. Sorry for the mistake, I'm so embarassed :o :o

 

[jharmon]

I had the same exact problem. I took an electric impact wrench. The nut came right off with no problems. I would try that if you know someone who might have an Electric Impact wrench. Works great!

 

[TexKDX]

Don't forget, you have to solve the problem for putting the nut back on and torquing it to the correct torque value, so some of these other ideas will get used eventually...