Couple of questions from forum newbie..

[longshore58]

Hello to all the fine folks on a great website !!

I recently got a 1991 KDX-200-E3 that was well maintained and in really good shape and am currently upgrading the pipe to an FMF and adding the correct needle/main/pilot from Fredette Racing.

I have a few dumb questions though....I'm running a NGK-B9ES and really have not seen a suggested gap setting from browsing the site and could not find it in my factory service manual..what do you guys gap the NGK's at?

Mine is currently @ .032 and I'm not sure if this is correct or not.

Tearing down and cleaning everything yesterday evening getting ready for my parts to arrive I was wondering if there is anyway to tell from looking at the reeds if the previous owner had installed Boyesen reeds.

I intend to install Boyesen Power Reeds (part # 607) while everything is apart but was curious if they might already have been installed!?

Also....on the older model KDX-200's (1989-1994) I notice that Trail Tech does NOT offer a model specific "Endurance" computer but offers the (generic) part # 704-20....has anyone tried this model and is it satisfactory on these older KDX's??

Sorry for writing a damn novel but I have saved the best for last.. :coocoo:

While I'm working away on things I walked by where the fuel tank was resting and discovered a nice suprise....it's developed a crack in the bottom just by sitting in the corner!
(one inch by about 1/16th)

I have already ridden the KDX a bunch and had no hint of a problem....I guess it's better to spring a leak sitting in the garage than leaking onto a hot exhaust pipe for sure though.

No clue why it split sitting there?!

So I Google "fix plastic fuel tank" and it's the old J&B Weld or some super-duper 3M 4693H Scotch-Weld High Performance Industrial Plastic Adhesive Clear..


Do you folks think this will work or am I stuck on the sidelines waiting for a tank to show up on FleaBay??

I normally do not ride with a fire extinguisher strapped to my back but I don't wanna go up in a blaze of glory while riding either.. :whoa:

Thanks for any and all advice and y'all have a great ride in 2009!!!!!!!!

 

[longshore58]

one more guys......

How hard should the KIPS cover be to remove??

I'm pretty sure from looking inside the old pipe that it is probably overdue for cleaning but after removing the three bolts I find the KIPS cover is stuck on there pretty good.

I don't want to get too frisky whopping on it and damage it....thanks in advance..


(I hope)

 

[sr5bidder]

NO DON'T USE JB WELD !!

I have used a product called Hanger 9 6 minute epoxy with great results, it is a liquid two part epoxy and is avalible through your local Hobby shop the main use is model airplanes

All you need to do is clean the crack with rubbing alchohol and fill the crack in and float the epoxy out approx 1/4 inch on both sides. Let dry for 1 day..

As far as trail tech goes all of thier computers are basically universal and the bigest challenge is getting the magnet in the front rotor for the speed pick up sensor. So compare your rotor with the 95-06 and see if the holes are similar.

 

[mudpack]

I've not found any adhesive/epoxy/glue that will work with these polyethylene fuel tanks. You might be able to "weld" it up with a plastic welder (soldering iron).....but that's iffy.

Honestly, an old tank that starts splitting will never stop. I'd recommend buying a new tank from Kawasaki or one of the many aftermarket manufacturers. If springing a leak while out on the trail is a concern (and it should be), then only a new tank will give you the peace of mind you are searching for.


Mud

 

[longshore58]

thanks for the advice..

I appreciate it...I believe I got lucky on the Boyesen reeds already being installed so at least I won't have to buy those..

 

[glad2ride]

.028 - .032, if I remember correctly

buy a used tank off e-bay

have a new gasket on hand for the left side, then light taps with rubber hammer

right side is plastic, so be careful