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cr250 wont start!!! Tough one to fix..

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Nov 17, 2006
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#1
Out of the blue, my 96' cr250 won't start. It was running fine just before I went to Prossor OHV (bad ass place to ride, from what I could tell).

Anyway, I cleaned out my card and made sure all was clean. I have a brand new BRE9ES plug in. I'm running 50:1 in my fuel. AS at 1 3/4 (normally at 1 1/2, but I was at a higher elevation). After it won't start after kicking it awhile, I pull the plug and notice it's wet. I clean the plug and test to make sure I'm getting spark by holding the plug onto the head and kicking it over. And it sparks just fine. I put it back in, and nothing. I took the coil down to the local Honda shop and had them test the coil as it looked a little rusty, but it tested ok. I don't know where to go from here other than wondering if the plug isn't sparking enough. Could it be the stator? CDI?? I'm lost.
please help!!!

Chris
 

dirt bike dave

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#2
A cracked, chipped or warped reed can make a two stroke very difficult to cold start. Inspect your reeds closely, and replace if worn.

No compression due to a worn out top end (piston and rings) can also cause you problems on cold starting.
 
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#4
I'll go check the reed valves. I just might pull the top end, but maybe I'll wait a few to see if I can find another problem.
 
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#6
So I checked the reeds and they look great. I then went on to pull the top end and that looks good to. Although, how do I add pictures to this post?

When I tried to ride last Sunday I think my plug was fouled from the beginning and after it wouldn't start after a few kicks I have this bad habit of opening up the throttle and kicking. I've never done this when it's cold, but once I'm ridding and I stall, I'll try this to restart and I often works.

When I pulled the top end, I noticed alot of gas. Could I have flooded the hell out of it. And even though I pulled and cleaned the plug, it just flooded again.

If anyone can tell me how to post pics, I'd like to have someone tell me it the piston and rings are still good.
 

dirt bike dave

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#7
Yeah, sounds like you flooded it.

Often times a badly flooded plug will not work even after you dry and clean it, especially if it was old to begin with.

I always carry a fresh plug, just in case. It might have save you a days riding and lots of time tearing the bike down.
 
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#8
So I was talking with my budy further on this and he mentioned that he noticed my plug wasn't tightened all the way down and he heard that if the plug isn't all the way down, it can suck coolant into the head. When I tore my top end down, it did have coolant in the head.

???
 

IndyMX

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#10
crustydemon1970 said:
So I was talking with my budy further on this and he mentioned that he noticed my plug wasn't tightened all the way down and he heard that if the plug isn't all the way down, it can suck coolant into the head. When I tore my top end down, it did have coolant in the head.

???
Dont' listen to your buddy, he's on crack..

There isn't a water passage that going into the sparkplug threads of the head.

If you have water in your topend, it's not coming from there...

Most likely you didn't get all of the coolant out of the cylinder when you took the topend apart.. It may have gotten in then.

Or you could have a bad head gasket, which you need to replace anyway, since you tore it down.
 
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#11
http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=92818, There are some pics in this one,heat range and jetting. Rule out mechanical,replace your float valve once a year! It looks fine does not cut it! If it stumps you,replace the valve. Good compresion,top and bottom,clean air filter,ignition spot on,up to 1500 feet elevation that bike should run on stock jetting,did I mention replacing the float valve? You are flooding out the welding plug,es,you have WAY to much fuel in there! It should run safely and most efficient with the correct plug in it. Run the es till you get the engine running correctly. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/motorcycles/step4.asp?id=1130&type=reg, and there is the the race plug, http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/motorcycles/step4.asp?id=1130&type=ir, And replace the float valve!
 

IndyMX

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#12
whenfoxforks-ruled said:
http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=92818, There are some pics in this one,heat range and jetting. Rule out mechanical,replace your float valve once a year! It looks fine does not cut it! If it stumps you,replace the valve. Good compresion,top and bottom,clean air filter,ignition spot on,up to 1500 feet elevation that bike should run on stock jetting,did I mention replacing the float valve? You are flooding out the welding plug,es,you have WAY to much fuel in there! It should run safely and most efficient with the correct plug in it. Run the es till you get the engine running correctly. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/motorcycles/step4.asp?id=1130&type=reg, and there is the the race plug, http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/motorcycles/step4.asp?id=1130&type=ir, And replace the float valve!

Hey, Bob, I'm not real clear, should the float valve be replaced?
 
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#13
If I'm reading the OP correctly, it was running OK. He then cleaned the carb in preperation for the OHV trip and then ran into the problem at the park. If that's correct, more than likely something didn't go back together correctly when reassembling the carb. I'd pull the carb. back apart and verify it's assembled correctly, paying particular attention to the float system. Also verify that the carb. overflow system is clear.
 
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#14
you might wanna try leaving the gas off for the first bit when trying to start it. kick it over till you think you emptied the carb of all the gas. if it starts you know its your float level or the float bowl itself. MAKE SURE YOUR PLUG ISNT SOAKED HALFWAY THROUGH KICKING IT OVER THOUGH. sorry for the caps but if its wet everything could be perfect and it still wont start.