reepicheep
Member
- Apr 3, 2009
- 670
- 2
I was methodically re-installing the inner and outer clutch cover on a 2001 KDX-220, and got the dreaded $tink when I torqued down the bottom screws.
The kick starter was not binding (kept checking as I was torquing down), the KIPS drive was in the right way, and the case looked (from the higher vantage point where I was installing it from) looked flush before I started torquing (but I could only really see the top).
Taking it back apart, the only thing I could see wrong is that the kickstarter return spring was not pressed all the way into that retaining hole... it was in there, but skewed and not recessed. There was a corresponding "shiny spot" on the inner clutch cover, and the crack was in a place that looked reasonable for pivoting over that spring.
So before I put on the new one ($150 from dealer, $50 on ebay, FWIW), I'd like to make sure I understand for sure how I cracked the old one.
I'll do more debugging later, but in the mean time, I am wondering if anyone else has done or heard of this... I don't want to do it again.
As a side note, while waiting for the new (used) one, I fired up the oxy-actylene rig and broke out some old aluma-weld (harbor freight) I had laying around, and tried patching up the old cover. If you aren't familiar with aluma-weld, its an aluminum brazing product (that might be closer to a weld then a braze, it's hard to tell when you are doing it).
I expected it to be an abysmal failure, but after an hour of fun playing and filing things down, the thing actually looks really good and really strong. I may try bolting it up just for fun and seeing if it holds. I have another on the way, so I don't think I will risk being 10 miles on on a trail and having it let go, but when I started I figured there would be no hope at all, and after trying the repair I am now in the "it's risky but might work" camp... I'll know more when I try torquing it down.
The kick starter was not binding (kept checking as I was torquing down), the KIPS drive was in the right way, and the case looked (from the higher vantage point where I was installing it from) looked flush before I started torquing (but I could only really see the top).
Taking it back apart, the only thing I could see wrong is that the kickstarter return spring was not pressed all the way into that retaining hole... it was in there, but skewed and not recessed. There was a corresponding "shiny spot" on the inner clutch cover, and the crack was in a place that looked reasonable for pivoting over that spring.
So before I put on the new one ($150 from dealer, $50 on ebay, FWIW), I'd like to make sure I understand for sure how I cracked the old one.
I'll do more debugging later, but in the mean time, I am wondering if anyone else has done or heard of this... I don't want to do it again.
As a side note, while waiting for the new (used) one, I fired up the oxy-actylene rig and broke out some old aluma-weld (harbor freight) I had laying around, and tried patching up the old cover. If you aren't familiar with aluma-weld, its an aluminum brazing product (that might be closer to a weld then a braze, it's hard to tell when you are doing it).
I expected it to be an abysmal failure, but after an hour of fun playing and filing things down, the thing actually looks really good and really strong. I may try bolting it up just for fun and seeing if it holds. I have another on the way, so I don't think I will risk being 10 miles on on a trail and having it let go, but when I started I figured there would be no hope at all, and after trying the repair I am now in the "it's risky but might work" camp... I'll know more when I try torquing it down.