Just went through this procedure and this is what I recommend. To remove, first heat the cylinder around the stud with a propane torch. Not too hot, just enough to soften the thread lock used by the manufacturer. Do not heat the stud itself as this will be counter productive. Move the torch around a bit so you don't get one spot way too hot.
Next, use a stud removal tool. The Snap-On brand is way over priced and offers no quality advantage. The best set I found is made by Assenmacher (AST) and comes with a set of four metric sizes for $102. I use an on-line company called Ontool.com. The stud remover uses a three-cam type socket mechanism to grap the stud by the threads. It may or may not flatten the threads lightly depending on how much force is required. Since I prefer to replace with new studs, this is not a problem.
To install, first coat the threads with blue lock-tite and use a stud installer. Make sure there is no grease or dirt on either the cylinder or stud threads. The stud installer I use is made by Motion Pro. They make a beautiful set of three metric sizes for $45. You can also buy just one size for $16. I chose the Motion Pro installer because they do not use the threads to install unlike the AST set above or the Snap-On one (the AST set is both an installer and remover). The Motion Pro set will leave a tiny dimple on the end of the stud that amazingly matches the dimple on the original studs installed by the factory.
Tighten the studs snugly and evenly so all are at the same height when installed.
Hope this helps.
Rich