Did i blow it?

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#1
I just got done changing fork oil on my '02 XR650R (KYB forks)
bike has about 5 or 600 miles and ive been hearing stories about the stock oil being a stringy goey mess (ie: defective junk) to make a long story short, it wasnt. The oil was fine, but i had already dumped it into a dirty coffee can, and couldnt reuse it. :think:
Anywhos, whilst i had the other fork leg turned upside down to drain it (might as well do em both right?) i pushed the fork tube up and down to help pump the old oil out, and i think i may have extended the tube a bit much.
I extended it till i noticed some openings start to appear on the side of the tube, and a bit of oil leaked from them (making a bit of a mess) the tube slid back into place good enough, and seemes to function fine.
Once i had the proper amount of oil (4 1/2" from top of tube w/o springs installed) added and the whole shebang back together an on the bike, i noticed that there is a small bit of fork oil film on the fork in question.
I wiped it dry and pushed the forks up and down again. Each time there apears to be less oil film on the fork tubes.
Did i just trap some oil in a space between the seal and the outer wiper/seal, or did i "blow it up" or something??
There is no oil puddling on the outer seal/ridge at the top of the lower fork body.

Gawd this stuff was so much easier on my '82!!!! :| :|

PS: is PJ1 "fork tuner" fork oil any good? thats what i used. :confused:
 

marcusgunby

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#2
You did just fill the space where the seals are with oil-no problem from doing that.In fact if the seals are very dry it helps alot.

No idea on PJI.
 
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#3
Oh thank goodness!
That gives me much peace of mind.
Thank you Marcus! :)

"Murphy" just loves watching over my shoulder when i start what seems to be a simple project.
Getting the rebound damper piston rod back into the jam nut/ fork cap asembley was lots of fun too...... :think:
 

marcusgunby

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#4
Funny thing is thats a very easy thing once you get the knack-pull the rod to the top-use your thumb to push it sideways(just above the outer tube) as you drop the spring over it-then push the spring across to give a sideways force(gently) if you do it right the spring drops over the rod and it doesnt drop at all-push the spring down(whilst still pushing sidewards) and the rod will stick out the top and you simple screw the cap on.
 
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#5
Got a question about that rod/jamnut/cap assembley.
In the shop manual it says to thread the jam nut onto the piston rod hand tight first. Then drop in the spring, and thread on the fork cap onto the top of the jamnut till it stops (about 3/4 way down) then use wrenches to tighten the cap onto the jamnut.
I did as it said, but as i tightened that last bit up -w- the wrenches i noticed that the pistonrod was turning with the fork cap.
I tried using an allenwrench (in that lil' hole in the side of the pistonrod) to keep the rod from turning, but it would have snapped the allenwrench if i held it there.
Anywhos, i tightened the jamnut/forkcap assembley as per the manual says, thinking that the pistonrod would now be loose, but it wasnt!
It was nice and tight. :cool:
Wondering if thats the way its supposed to go on there, or if i need to get a pair of vicegrips ( :eek: ) to hold that rod still.......
Havent rode it yet, but it appears to work just dandy.
Mebbe im just being paranoid. (hopefully)
 
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marcusgunby

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#6
You want to screw the cap down onto the rod(with the rebound adjuster full open) as far as it will go without force(hold the rod with a pair of rubber faced pliers)then allow the nut to back up the rod and meet the cap-then tighten to spec.This is to set the rebound rod to the correct height with the cap fully seated.Otherwise you may not get full rebound adjustment, and at the recomended setting it wont have the correct amount of damping.